Where do I start?

[Geno Baturin]

Good afternoon, everyone!

I am very new at woodwork, but I would like to try.

I am making simple bathroom cabinet. I think I can do the frame with no problem. But I want it look very plain, so I have decided to make some kind of raised panel doors and drawer faces. I am thinking to buy plywood and sanded wood planks from Menards for this project.

These are the tools that I currently have:
Craftsman table and miter saw, got my old blades 40 and 60 teeth sharpened.
I have used them on some simple jobs like shelves and trims.

Borrowing pipe tube clamps.
Craig's jig

Craftsman router with the table.
I do not have a model number, but this is the cheap one.
I never used it before, and I have no bits. I think it has a 1/4 collet.

I will need to make 4 drawer faces size 6x12 and 2 doors 9x12
(these are the size of the openings, not actual doors/drawers)

Ok, here are some questions.
- For drawer faces I am planning to use 1" x 8" Red Oak Board
since the actual size is smaller, is it going to be wide enough, or I should get something wider
like 1x10? Then I cut it and make edges with the router

- For the doors I am planning to use 1/4 or 1/2 plywood for the panels. Or should I do solid wood panels? is it much more difficult?

- I have looked up and I did not see many with 1/4 shank, should I buy another colett 1/2?

- My router table has plastic fence, should I build some extra fence with t-tracks to hold the feather boards?

- Since I have no bits, what bits do I need? I probably need to make some rabbets and dados on the frame.
and please, what is a good place to buy from?

- What other things I would need? I am trying to do this on what I have and not to buy a lot of tools.

- What part of the process I should pay special attention? for example, I have read that make doors square is not as easy as It may look.

Thanks, and sorry for all the dumb questions.

[Jim Dwight]

If you use plywood for the panel in a door it is considered a flat panel door or a shaker style door - not a raised panel door. A raised panel door has a solid wood (or sometimes MDF if it is painted) panel with the thickness tapering away on the edges to down around 1/4 inch to fit into the door frame. Flat panel doors are a lot easier so I would do them first.

MLCS Woodworking is a good source of bits. I have an old Sears Craftsman that takes 1/4 inch bits but I don't use it any more because bits slip in the collet too often. I use Porter Cable 690 routers (mid-sized older model) for most things. You can get a decent router that takes 1/2 inch bits for about $100. Some Craftsman router can have a 1/2 collet but many cannot. You may need a new router. A craftsman router table will probably work but you will want some sort of sled to do the cope cut if you make cope and stick doors. MLCS has free instructions for how to do it. You do not need to buy a coping sled, I made mine of scraps of plywood, solid wood, and a clamp.

Clear finish oak (with our without stain) will look nice but will be more difficult to complete than a painted cabinet. You can hide issues with paint that would show with a clear finish. Oak is harder to work with than softwood or poplar.

A pocket hole jig would probably make this easier for you but you said you don't want to buy tools. You can also use through screws (I use drywall screws) and glue to fasten the carcase together. If you clear finish, you will also need plugs or a plug cutter (if you have a drill press) to cover the screw holes.

Getting everything square is, indeed, a bit of a challenge. I found picture frame clamps usefull to hold the pieces of the box together when building cabinets - while I glue them and screw them.

[Lee Schierer]

I just completed the vanity in the picture below using the same tools you have available.

The drawer fronts and drawers have solid wood flat panels. The grooves for the panels were cut on my Craftsman table saw. The frames for the drawers and doors were all cut on my table saw. The internal frames were made with lap joints on the table saw and attached in the cabinet with pocket hole screws using my Kreg jig.
310592

The key to getting started is to insure that your table saw is aligned properly so you can cut pieces that are square on the ends. Check your saw alignment before you get started unless you are sure it has already bee aligned properly.

There are lots of 1/4" bits out there. I buy most of mine at Routerbitworld.com. Typically I buy Freud bits which are a bit more expensive than bits from the big box stores or sears, but thy cut far better. I have tossed most of my Craftsman router bits.

Door panels are fine at 1/4" thick. 1 x 8 will be fine to make your drawer fronts. You can glue up narrower pieces to make the needed width, but try to use pieces with similar grain to match up the grain so the seam hides. If you are going to use a router on the drawer edges cut the end grain first then the long grain.

Make a plan for your cabinet before you start. Determine what drawer slides you will use and how the drawers will go into the cabinet. Are the faces going to overlap the front or be inset? The same with the doors. Select your hinges before you start so you know what will be needed to hang the door.

Oak is pretty easy to work with. I've made many items from Red Oak. As you assemble parts, be sure to wipe off the extra glue with a clean damp rag before it dries. Then sand every surface after assembly before applying any stain. For a bathroom, you are going to want to use a polyurethane finish over the stain. Oil based will tend to yellow the color a bit with age. Water based will stay clear for a longer time, but may raise the wood grain slightly.

Feel free to ask questions as your encounter problems. Lots of folks here will be happy to help.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Great advice and walk-through, Lee. Nicely done, Sir.

[Geno Baturin]

Thanks Jim!

.... it is considered a flat panel door or a shaker style door - not a raised panel door. ... Flat panel doors are a lot easier ...
Thanks! i did not know how it called, now I do!

...I have an old Sears Craftsman that takes 1/4 inch bits ....
I looked up and there is a Sears part that should fit into my router. The router I have is 1 3/4 HP if I am not mistaken, do you think it will handle 1/2 bits?
I might consider another router, and the table, and maybe more tools, but i would like to make my project with what I already have to see if I have enough skills and interest.

... but you will want some sort of sled to do the cope cut if you make cope and stick doors....

Coping sled is another new word to my vocabulary, I am glad I asked before I start


Clear finish oak (with our without stain) will look nice but will be more difficult
Yeah, I thought to make painted box, but will stick with the oak.

A pocket hole jig would probably make this easier...
I do have the Kraig's Jig, it should work
As for the drill press, I know a friend who has one, i can borrow from him, but would I need it for something else than plug cutter?

I have not thought of a picture frame clamps,
what do you think is a good one?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FNKXIG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1GT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Y5KL2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19VW1BL9ZXZVA

I probably want a good one, because I have a few pics to frame, but never got to buy the frame, some of them are not standard sized, not typical 8x10
so the picture frame camps will be used for another project as well.

[Geno Baturin]

I just completed the vanity in the picture below using the same tools you have available.

this is unbelievable. Looks very good.


...The grooves for the panels were cut on my Craftsman table saw....
I am not sure I have skills to do that, do you think the router will be easier?

The internal frames were made with lap joints on the table saw and attached in the cabinet with pocket hole screws using my Kreg jig.
This is what i wanted to do, but I am not sure if the edge of the panel will look ok

I will definitely check my table saw for alignment, never thought that it might be misaligned.


... You can glue up narrower pieces to make the needed width ...
Do i need some kind of groves to make them together?

I actually like the drawer faces you made, you just glued all 5 pieces together? and the center piece is flat with the sides, correct?
i think I can do the same for my drawers, just need to see if the center piece is sized nicely.

... If you are going to use a router on the drawer edges cut the end grain first then the long grain....
I was going to ask does it make a difference, but I thought if you mention it, it probably does !

i have user Sketchup to draw the plan, I can share it if you use it, or just the pictures.

I have decided to use bottom mount sides. I like ball bearing slides much better, but for the cabinet I make, i will do the cheap easy ones
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7210-Drawer-16-Inch/dp/B00E8AF0P8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428009188&sr=8-1&keywords=DRAWER+SLIDES

Yes, the faces and doors are going to overlap the openings, for the same reason - i think it is easier to make them than flush ones.

The hinges will be
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OL54KE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A43UOEJF6Z1TG

I already have doors made with them, and i have a round bit for the hinges size.

thanks for your advise about the finish, I have not thought about it yet.
is polyurethane durable enough? i have covered a table top with it and it starts to wears off in two years. but it is a very busy table.


Thanks again, I will ask more questions, here is one:
do I need, or should I worry about feather boards on my router? it does not ones, and it seems they make working on the router table easier.

[Lee Schierer]

this is unbelievable. Looks very good.


...The grooves for the panels were cut on my Craftsman table saw....
I am not sure I have skills to do that, do you think the router will be easier? I cut the grooves with a ripping blade.

The internal frames were made with lap joints on the table saw and attached in the cabinet with pocket hole screws using my Kreg jig.
This is what i wanted to do, but I am not sure if the edge of the panel will look ok I,m not sure what you mean. I was referring to the frame you see at the top of the photo which can't be seen once the top is installed.


I will definitely check my table saw for alignment, never thought that it might be misaligned.


... You can glue up narrower pieces to make the needed width ...
Do i need some kind of groves to make them together? No, edge to edge gluing is as strong as it gets.


I actually like the drawer faces you made, you just glued all 5 pieces together? and the center piece is flat with the sides, correct?
i think I can do the same for my drawers, just need to see if the center piece is sized nicely. The center panel sits in a groove just like the doors. My panels are solid wood not plywood so they are not glued to the frame. The panel is 1/4" thick so it is recessed 1/4" from the front and back of the frame.


... If you are going to use a router on the drawer edges cut the end grain first then the long grain....
I was going to ask does it make a difference, but I thought if you mention it, it probably does ! As your router bit exits the cut at the edge of the board, you will get some slight tear out (splintering). This tear out is generally cut off when you make the cut along the edge grain.


i have user Sketchup to draw the plan, I can share it if you use it, or just the pictures. I also use Sketch up as do many other. You can post views of your drawings

I have decided to use bottom mount sides. I like ball bearing slides much better, but for the cabinet I make, i will do the cheap easy ones
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-7210-Drawer-16-Inch/dp/B00E8AF0P8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428009188&sr=8-1&keywords=DRAWER+SLIDES I used these slides on the cabinet you saw above. They are a bit more money, but close softly. https://woodworker.com/12-fe-bb-soft-close-slide-ano-bulk-mssu-162-173.asp?search=162236&searchmode=2

Yes, the faces and doors are going to overlap the openings, for the same reason - i think it is easier to make them than flush ones.

The hinges will be
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OL54KE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A43UOEJF6Z1TG Note that those hinges are for inset doors, not an overlay door.

I already have doors made with them, and i have a round bit for the hinges size.

thanks for your advise about the finish, I have not thought about it yet.
is polyurethane durable enough? i have covered a table top with it and it starts to wears off in two years. but it is a very busy table. I use floor quality poly for bathroom cabinets


Thanks again, I will ask more questions, here is one:
do I need, or should I worry about feather boards on my router? it does not ones, and it seems they make working on the router table easier. Feather boards will help hold your work to the cutter. On large pieces where my fingers stay well clear of the cutter, I don't use feather boards. I do use feather boards when making dowels and when routing long pieces. My router table doesn't have T-slots so I use clamps to hold feather boards in place when needed.

I hope this helps.

[Brian Henderson]

I was going to say, trying to do a raised panel with an underpowered router is probably not the best idea, but you can easily do a flat panel door, it's just a frame with some rabbets. Since you have the Kreg jig and you want to make this easily, pocket holes are a good idea, they're simple to set up and quick to do and so long as you plan where you put them, nobody will ever know you used them. My advice is to run over to YouTube and watch some of the bathroom cabinet builds to see what they're doing and how they go together. There are also plenty of free plans online for cabinets that you can get ideas from and adapt to your particular circumstances.

For router bits, it honestly depends on your design. If you're going to round over the edges of your drawers, clearly you'll need a roundover bit. You might need a straight cutting bit if you want to do dados, it doesn't sound like you have a dado set for your table saw. Beyond that, it all depends on your particular design and how you want it to come out. I don't remember if you said you had a sander, that is something you might want to consider, plus you might need a drill for making holes and/or screwing the thing together. I've never seen anyone using pocket hole screws without one, that would seem like a pain.

Best of luck, by all means ask lots of questions here, we're happy to help.

[Mike Heidrick]

Secret to raised panels on a smaller router is multiple passes on your router table. Use your fence and take a few passes to achieve the full profile.

Cut quite a few test pieces for your doors so you can get the fitment you like on them. Be safe and use safety gear on that router table and use the guard on your tablesaw! Hold downs are great on a router table too - keep that panel flat. Watch your fingers as the bits can be pretty big. Use push blocks if needed.

[Terry Welty]

Have you looked into a woodworking class many high schools/Jr colleges offer excellent night classes. Would definately soled.up your learning curve and you'd be able to check out different tools and techniques.

[Geno Baturin]

Have you looked into a woodworking class many high schools/Jr colleges offer excellent night classes. Would definately soled.up your learning curve and you'd be able to check out different tools and techniques.

I did not even know that there are such classes. But it looks like a good idea. Where do I look? Community college or something?

[Geno Baturin]

This is me again. I spent some time to work on my drawing.

The only thing need to be changed it the cabinet width, it is too wide now, I need more of the marble top hang over the face of the cabinet.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16866955318_8d2aca7ae6.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rGtybs)Kids Bathroom Cabinet VIEW (https://flic.kr/p/rGtybs) on Flickr


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8729/17053925391_1a9f2a1338.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rYZPSp)Kids Bathroom Cabinet SIDE (https://flic.kr/p/rYZPSp) on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7675/16866954758_0ba59a08e8.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rGty1N)Kids Bathroom Cabinet BACK (https://flic.kr/p/rGty1N) on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8770/16432303834_6cf380199a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r34Rrm)Kids Bathroom Cabinet FRONT (https://flic.kr/p/r34Rrm) on Flickr



You can download my sketchup too:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-K60s_EexoPbFZLVHZRQXpHdjg/view?usp=sharing

Following your advise, I already ordered Merle Clamp and 1/2 collet.


Can you please, take a look and tell me if the plan I have will work?
What needs to be changed?

Thanks!