Of the Titebond wood glues, do you most prefer the red, blue or green?

[Mike Dowell]

I've been meaning to ask this here for a while but I now need to get another gallon of glue and before I do, I was curious what the preference is around here. I've only ever used the red bottle - standard stuff. It glues wood together, but are there any real benefits to the blue and green label glues?

[Brian Tymchak]

I think the greatest difference between TB 1/2/3 is the water resistance. 2 is weather proof, 3 is water proof. Open times vary a little bit.

I found this page on the Titebond website when wondering what glue to use on my workbench. Pretty informative.

http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/LiteraturePDFs/FF683_GlueGuideTB.sflb.ashx

[Robert Engel]

I mostly use TB II.

I use III when I need a ridgid glue line.

[Bill Huber]

I just use TB3, it has a little longer set time, it is strongest of them I think and the thing of it is I never know when I need something that is water proof.
Just by using the one I never have to worry about what glue to use and I don't have some glue setting around that may get old. When you are paying $8 plus for wood I want the best glue I can use.

[Chris Padilla]

I always have I and II on hand simply for the open time difference. If I need a real fast set, the TB Molding and Trim glue is real handy to have.

Once III came out, I used up all my II and haven't bought any since. Now I have I and III on hand always. :)

Glues are like tools...you might need a few different kinds depending upon what you need to do.

[Brian Henderson]

I used to use all of them, then I realized that the I and II were just sitting around and I was almost always using III. I got rid of I and II and only use III now. The open time doesn't really matter to me, I just want the strongest glue I can get and that's it.

[Steve Baumgartner]

I mostly use TB III because I don't heat my shop very warm most of the year, and it has a lower chalk temperature than the others.

[glenn bradley]

Like Bill I find it easier to just keep TB-III around. If I see TB-I on sale for a super low price I will grab a bottle and use it where appropriate but, as a rule I K.I.S.S.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I only use Titebond 3 (green). Longer open time, water proof, etc. It basically has all of the attributes I need for the vast majority of my projects. I've never bothered with the others.

[Andrew Hughes]

Heres a TB glue that I use not many mention it.Its just plain white glue fast set very strong.Hasnt failed me yet.
I also use all the other colors.
I my glue cabinet I also have epoxy,spray adhesive,Old brown glue,cyanoacrylate with accelerater.And even rubber cement.Im out of plastic resin right now.Can never have too many glues.

[Mike Dowell]

Like Bill I find it easier to just keep TB-III around. If I see TB-I on sale for a super low price I will grab a bottle and use it where appropriate but, as a rule I K.I.S.S.


TBIII it is! Interesting take on this. I wondered about the III mainly because it is waterproof, so I was pondering if that would be a bad thing when it came to wiping excess glue off a joint prior to staining. I thought maybe it was harder to come off or something like that.

[Mike Dowell]

I think the greatest difference between TB 1/2/3 is the water resistance. 2 is weather proof, 3 is water proof. Open times vary a little bit.

I found this page on the Titebond website when wondering what glue to use on my workbench. Pretty informative.

http://www.titebond.com/Libraries/LiteraturePDFs/FF683_GlueGuideTB.sflb.ashx

Great reference! Thank you!

[Rob Duke]

I only use Titebond 3 (green). Longer open time, water proof, etc. It basically has all of the attributes I need for the vast majority of my projects. I've never bothered with the others.

Same here.

[Mort Stevens]

3 is water proof

I never like calling Tightbond-III "water-proof" - I don't care that it meets some manufacturing "standard." It's still water-soluble and cured/dried can still be completely dissolved in water - Tightbond-III is simply the most "water-resistant" of the three kinds. After all using the word "water-proof" might give someone the idea that they can use it to build a boat!

And for the record I use Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue. :)

[Cody Colston]

I use TB III almost exclusively because of it's longer open time and its water-proof formula. Occassionally, I'll use TB Original for its fast tack. I really can't see the application for TB II anymore.

[Cody Colston]

After all using the word "water-proof" might give someone the idea that they can use it to build a boat!

From the TBIII glue bottle: "Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline."

I suppose it could be a problem for illiterates. :rolleyes:

[Jim Dwight]

I usually get Titebond II. It is only slightly more expensive than Titebond I and I figure a little water resistance is a good thing. It the project may get rained on or something, I'll buy a quart of Titebond III.

[Jesse Busenitz]

I use TB I all the time.... never used anything else, but I may give III a try sometime.

[David Falkner]

TB I for instrument work because it doesn't have as much creep and is easier to take a joint apart if needed. TB III for cutting boards and where a longer open time is important. HHG if I want no creep at all.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I use TB III almost exclusively because of it's longer open time and its water-proof formula. Occassionally, I'll use TB Original for its fast tack. I really can't see the application for TB II anymore.
If I remember correctly, II dries white, so, the purpose is probably for someone who wants a white glue that has some water resistance.

[Chris Padilla]

310599
Here are some color comparisons of glue that I did on a whim once. The above are FRESH.


310600
Here they are dried. Sorry the color is off...probably poor light. That bottom one is Better Bonds Cold Press Veneer Adhesive in extra dark.

[Jim Becker]

I pretty much only use Titebond III.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I pretty much only use Titebond III.

^^^ Ditto ^^^

Color difference makes no difference if the joints are flush and tight.............can't find the glue joint unless you look at the wood grain.

[glenn bradley]

TBIII it is! Interesting take on this. I wondered about the III mainly because it is waterproof, so I was pondering if that would be a bad thing when it came to wiping excess glue off a joint prior to staining. I thought maybe it was harder to come off or something like that.

Not in my experience but, I don't use the wet rag method. I generally build with all those tips and tricks we see about avoiding squeeze-out. When I want squeeze-out (like on a cutting board) I let the glue skin over for about 30 minutes and then pare it off with a chisel.

[Jeff Duncan]

Well I have gallons of TB1, and III, as well as melamine and cold press. But definitely use TB1 the most. I don't do exterior work and TB1 won't fail on a good joint, so the only time it's worth paying double for glue is if I need a lot of extra open time;)

good luck,
JeffD

[Chris Padilla]

Color difference makes no difference if the joints are flush and tight.............can't find the glue joint unless you look at the wood grain.

I'll assume that comment is more or less aimed at me. While the color changes are interesting...maybe...I mostly did it as I wanted to see how hard the various glues dried. All the PVAs I could dig a thumbnail into but the poly, BB, and PRG dried very hard and I could not imprint them. Perhaps that is a tad more interesting? :D

[jack duren]

Use Titebond glue according to the specs. I'm not sure why one would use Titebond 2 except where it was needed or a tabletop. Titebond 3 only on exterior. If one wants extended opening time, use Extend.

[Rich Riddle]

Like many others, I use III most often but do have type I in the shop. You won't find type II around here though.

[Peter Quinn]

In my home shop its pretty much III for everything. I buy by the gallon, for the volume I do it doesn't make sense to have more than one type, and III handles everything including the low winter shop temp. Only time I don't like III is for stain grade work on light woods like hard maple...except cutting boards where I rather have the water resistance than worry about glue lines. I've found on light woods I can read the glue lines even with perfect joints and spectacular pressure, so for that its II or I. The last shop I worked in used I for most of the cabinetry and interior work, III for exterior work, passage doors, stair parts or anything that would face water. The shop I'm in now uses II for everything except exterior doors, there we use III. Certain things get polyurethane or epoxy as the foreman or mechanic on the job judges necessary.

When I'm building boats..............................wait a minute.......I don't build boats! Did Columbus have epoxy or resorcinol? Maybe he just had lots of buckets?

[Keith Hankins]

I don't have a 1 size fits all. It depends on the joint and application as to the type of glue I use. I never buy by the gallon as it would age. I get enough to do the project and make sure i knew when it was made. Biggest risk is old glue!

[Mike Dowell]

I don't have a 1 size fits all. It depends on the joint and application as to the type of glue I use. I never buy by the gallon as it would age. I get enough to do the project and make sure i knew when it was made. Biggest risk is old glue!

Interesting - knowing when it was made. That's what I do when I pick out beer!

[Jim Becker]

Yea, I buy the glue in the smaller containers, too...not the tiny ones, but the larger squeeze bottle. Easy to handle and the glue gets used up in a reasonable time.

[Mike Dowell]

I picked up some TBIII and I do like it. I've got a question though. Whenever squeezeout is left to dry, this glue seems to dry like rubber, unlike the TBI which dries really hard. Does that seem odd to you?

[Mac McQuinn]

TB3 for me. It's the only glue I use any longer. I was also impressed by the parent company's customer service.
Mac

[Chris Padilla]

I picked up some TBIII and I do like it. I've got a question though. Whenever squeezeout is left to dry, this glue seems to dry like rubber, unlike the TBI which dries really hard. Does that seem odd to you?

Most PVA (i.e. yellow glues...) glues do not dry hard. I would suspect your TB-I is getting old if it dries hard.

[Paul McGaha]

Titebond I user here, pretty much all of my pieces are indoor pieces.

PHM

[Mike Dowell]

Most PVA (i.e. yellow glues...) glues do not dry hard. I would suspect your TB-I is getting old if it dries hard.

Interesting. I never knew that!

[joseph f merz]

I have been using tb111 for out door products since it came out .yet to have a glue fail as far as i know .I have always thought of it as waterproof .
i was at a deck job i did 15yrs ago .used biscuits and tb111 on the miters . there has been a small amount of opening on a couple of joints .but most show no movement .i am very impressed .
wonder what that manufacturing standard is - may still out last the wood .

[Bryan Cramer]

I use Titebond 1 for general woodworking. When I need slightly more open time, little creep for mild bent laminations, or the most water resistant I use Titebond 3. I stock both, the most of Titebond 1.

[Myk Rian]

Which one is red, blue, or green? Why not ask I, II, or III?
I use III.

[Chris Padilla]

Which one is red, blue, or green? Why not ask I, II, or III?
I use III.

A different way of asking that, I suppose. :)

Red = I
Blue = II
Green = III

Should we start a pool of what the next color will be for IV? There is Yellow, Orange, and Purple left. I'm betting Yellow.

[Matthew Hills]

Thought that regular white glue was favored for cheap + extended open?
(was wondering at the responses where folks normally used TBI for cost, but switched to TBIII when needing longer open)

I buy smaller sizes by project, as my shop time is erratic enough that old glue is a recurring issue.

Matt

[Curt Harms]

TBII Extend is pretty good for a PVA-type glue open/assembly time. 15 minutes open time, 20-25 minutes assembly time. A downside is temp. - 60o min.