Delta 1172 tenoning jig (trouble)

[mike johnston]

310477 I finally scored a jig but this is all the closer I can get to the blade on my unisaw. The miter bar is moved over to the closer holes, and there are no other holes that line up to move the left to right sliding hold down closer. The only thing I can figure out is to drill and thread another hole in the plate so I can move the hold down bolt a little closer?

Thanks Mike

[Todd Burch]

Or you could add a spacer with double sticky tape.

[Jim Koepke]

Wouldn't this be a question for the power tool guys than the hand tool guys?

Though my thoughts on this is the above looks rather precarious.

Are there any mounting holes on the face of this contraption to allow for a wooden face to be added?

jtk

[Richard Line]

If you don't have a copy of the instruction manual, try searching on-line and at the Delta web site. It may have some fixes.

[Don Rogers]

Mike,
I have one just like that on my Unisaw and just checked it on the saw. It adjusts right up to the blade when used on the left hand side of the blade (in the left hand miter slot).

I've had it for years but only used it once. As I recall I had to readjust it for use in the LH miter slot.My Unosaw has it's closest miter slot edge 4 1/4" from the LH side of blade.

The RH Jig base is 3 1/4" from it's RH miter bar edge. There are two sets of holes in the baseplate for the miter bar.

I have pictures to show you but will have to send them by email if you PM me.

Sorry about not being able to post the pictures for everyone to see but will be glad to email them if they PM me.

Don

[Bruce Page]

Mine also moves to the blade. Do you have an extra threaded hole for the lock bolt? If you do, maybe the lock bolt is threaded into the wrong hole.

[Jim Koepke]

Don sent me some pictures to post.

This is not all of them since some seemed redundant:

310494

310495

310496

Is it just me or do these look as close as one would ever need to get to the blade for a tenon cut?

Also as Bruce mentioned are any of the holes on the base able to move the locking bolt closer to the edges?

Can the base be flipped end to end?

Since my shop doesn't have a table saw, all the above is just a guess on my part.

If nothing else worked, it would be my tendency to drill and tap a hole to meet my needs.

Currently my tenons are cut by hand or with a bandsaw.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I put some extra holes in mine that made it fit on a Powermatic 62, but it's been so long ago that I don't remember the details. I bought mine new, and wouldn't trade it for one of each of all the newer ones.

[Don Rogers]

Jim,
Thanks for posting my pictures.
I would never want to get that heavy fixture any closer to the blade.

My fixture has 2 tapped holes for the locking bolt which is positioned in the one nearer to the blade.

Mike, if yours does not, you may want to add the other tapped hole. Just be careful to locate it so that when adjusted fully toward the blade, it cannot touch it. There is an adjusting/locking screw which can be used for repeatable settings and/also for preventing the fixture from going into the saw blade.

I did not have to add the second tapped hole but can only guess that it was put in by the factory. Mine was not new but came with another tablesaw. I don't know it's history befoe I got it.

Don

[Tom M King]

Here's a picture of mine at work a couple of years ago. This is on a Unisaw. You can see the two holes side by side for different miter bar locations. I don't remember if one of those sets of holes were the ones I put in it or not. I only remember drilling and tapping some holes in it somewhere. Sorry, probably not much help.

http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/windows3_007.JPG

[Kent A Bathurst]

Did not follow all the discussion - sorry if this is redundant -

Are you putting it in the correct miter slot? Is it on the correct side of the blade?

I know when I got my Uni 15 years ago, I could not use that model tenon jig because I have a left-tilt saw. Never took the time to understand why - I just took their word for it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I know when I got my Uni 15 years ago, I could not use that model tenon jig because I have a left-tilt saw. Never took the time to understand why - I just took their word for it.BING, BING!! WE have a winner! Throat plate pictured is of a left tilt saw.

[Tom M King]

That's probably why I had to move the bar for the Powermatic 62. It's a left tilt. My Uni is a right tilt, which I bought years later than the 62 (still have it too), and I expect that's the saw that jig was originally designed for. The throat plate difference must be it. I've never compared slot to blade distances.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I was thinking the same thing, except from that picture, it doesn't look like it can be reconfigured to work on the other side of the blade... so you'd have to run the jig facing the wrong direction which isn't ideal. So it just appears to be incompatible with your saw.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I've never been able to figure out the utility in those things. I think all the guys who know how to use it are dead.

[Bruce Page]

I was thinking the same thing, except from that picture, it doesn't look like it can be reconfigured to work on the other side of the blade... so you'd have to run the jig facing the wrong direction which isn't ideal. So it just appears to be incompatible with your saw.

Not incompatible, just drill & tap for a new lock bolt hole.

[Myk Rian]

I've never been able to figure out the utility in those things. I think all the guys who know how to use it are dead.
If you had a vintage Uni, you would know why.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I've never been able to figure out the utility in those things. I think all the guys who know how to use it are dead.

I use mine all the time. It's easy to sneek up on the cut to fit your tenon to the mortise, and you get really clean shoulders that don't require cleanup.

I prefer using this jig over using a dado stack.

[Ed Aumiller]

I use mine all the time. It's easy to sneek up on the cut to fit your tenon to the mortise, and you get really clean shoulders that don't require cleanup.

I prefer using this jig over using a dado stack.

Totally agree... very handy & precise...

[Kent A Bathurst]

I was thinking the same thing, except from that picture, it doesn't look like it can be reconfigured to work on the other side of the blade... so you'd have to run the jig facing the wrong direction which isn't ideal. So it just appears to be incompatible with your saw.

Yeah - I was thinking that also- which is why guys have drilled and tapped a new pair of holes to move the miter bar.


I've never been able to figure out the utility in those things. I think all the guys who know how to use it are dead.

Not yet, brudda. Not yet, by a long shot. It - or its equivalent [which I have] works great. I get dead-nuts tenons out of that sucker faster than any other method - assuming I need more than one or two.

And, since the huge majority of my tenons are centered in 13/16" stock, the sucker is nearly always set up, ready to go.