Table saw router extensions

[Chris Lee]

I am looking to get a router table to add to my GI contractor saw. I would do a seperate table but I am already maxed out for space as is. Any body have any recomendations?

I looked at the Mulecab and it seems like it will fit the bill. Anyone one have this one?
http://http://www.mulecab.com/RouterTable/?referrer=Findwhat

Thanks,

Chris

[Warren White]

Chris,
I have the Bench Dog router table extension and really like it. It is on my Unisaw; I don't know whether it fits your particular saw, but it has worked out well for me.

Best of luck,
Warren

[John Branam]

I built my own for my ridgid contractor saw. They are real easy to make, I just used melamine and skirted it with some hardwood scrap I had. I did by a phenolic resin insert for it.

[John Gregory]

I built my own for my ridgid contractor saw. They are real easy to make, I just used melamine and skirted it with some hardwood scrap I had. I did by a phenolic resin insert for it.

I have a Ridgid TS2424 and need to make a router extension. How did you attach it to the rails to make sure it was even with the main table top? I have already slid my rails over to make it a TS3612

Thanks,
John

[John Branam]

The rails in the 3650 have t slots in them I mounted the t slot bolts in the skirting, I also bolted it to the cast iron wing for extra stability.

[John Gregory]

The rails in the 3650 have t slots in them I mounted the t slot bolts in the skirting, I also bolted it to the cast iron wing for extra stability.

Thanks, that will be my next project after the current one is done (Lyptus dresser for our grandson)

[Jim Becker]

If I were going to do this (I can't because of having a left-tilt cabinet saw and the motor cover precludes it), I'd use the BenchDog iron wing on the left side, preserving the right side for an overarm guard. The mass of the BenchDog wing is also "big", which gives it a nice feel when working. Solid.

[Donnie Raines]

I made my own router "table" extension. On an older saw I bought the Rockler kit and actually found it pretty good for the money. I am of the opinion that if it can be made...make it. Make a nice soild wood frame and use a nice high grade ply for the top. Then laminate the top for a smooth operation. You can buy any plate that you want...or use no plate at all(depending on how you plan on adjusting the bits...or removeing them for that matter).

[Vaughn McMillan]

I have a Ridgid TS2424 and need to make a router extension. How did you attach it to the rails to make sure it was even with the main table top? I have already slid my rails over to make it a TS3612

Thanks,
John John, here's the way I attached my home-made extension to my TS3650. (I'd love to see pics of how John Branam did his. Sounds like he may have a better way.)

This pic shows the 1" x "1/8" aluminum angle that I attached to the rails and the cast iron extension wing. The t-slots have enough "slop" that I can adjust the brackets up and down about 1/8". This allows me to tweak things to make the extension nice and flush with the cast iron top and wing. Once they were tightened, I've had no movement.

http://tg3k.com/tg3k/images/Extension%20Table%20Brackets%20500.jpg

My extension is two layers of melamine/PB shelving material from the Borg, glued together with contact cement. Cheap, but so far it's stayed nice and flat for me. I simply rabbeted the edges to clear the aluminum angle, then routed the extra clearance for the bolts holding the angle in place.

http://tg3k.com/tg3k/images/Extension%20Table%20Underside%20500.jpg

It all attaches through the top of the extension, with countersunk machine screws going into nuts under the aluminum angle. It took a bit of trial and error to get the angle brackets adjusted to just the right height, but within 5 minutes or so I had everything level and flush.

http://tg3k.com/tg3k/images/Ridgid%20Table%20Saw%2012%20400.jpg

After using it as a plain extension for a little while, I went ahead and installed an aluminum router plate and turned it into a router table extension. (Works well with the used Incra jig I bought a while back.) I've since decided that the 12" depth of my little extension is not enough, so I'm in the planning stages now to install a slightly modified Rockler RT insert. The 'stock" model has an oak frame underneath, I can't picture a good way to attach it as-is, so I'll likely do something similar to what I have now (with the rabbeted edges and such).

I hope this helps -

- Vaughn

[John Branam]

(I'd love to see pics of how John Branam did his. Sounds like he may have a better way.)



I will try do get some pictures of it my router extension this weekend. I think I had post earlier that I used hardwood scrap for the skirting, I actually used pine for the skirting and cut down an old laminated counter top for the table. The bolts were inserted through vertical slots in the skirting so I could adust the router table up and down to get it flush with my tablesaw top then after a few minutes of making adjustments I anchored the router table to the cast iron. I actually like the aluminum angle brackets that you used seems it may be easier to adjust.

[John Gregory]

Thanks Vaughn for the details and the pics. I will see what John's pics looks like when he posts them. But I have gotten great ideas from the both of you. I bought the old style of this (http://www.woodpeck.com/downdraft.html#103) They were having a close out of the old style and I got it for $50 or $60. On mine the dust collection hose attaches on the bottom.

The reason I am moving my router to the saw is to open up floor space for my new Perfomax 10-20 drum sander. Like everyone else, I wish I had unlimited shop space :)

[Vaughn McMillan]

I really like the DC cabinet idea, John. I might have to consider something similar when I re-do my RT. Thanks for the link.

- Vaughn