Frames for wall art? Picture type Frame making.

[Kit Dumph]

Picture framing? I have some artwork that is 24x18" and I want to put a frame around it. The wood is a little over 3/4 thick so this thing is kinda heavy. Been looking at metal frames and wooden ones online, but they seem pretty cheap. What do you guys do? Suggestions?

[Joe A Faulkner]

It's probably been 20+years since I last made a frame. Back then, my wife was into cross stitching. I had a brother in-law who worked at a cabinet parts factory and I got boxes of 1.5 - 2" wide cut-offs - mostly maple, walnut, and cherry. I used to make simple lap joint frames and rabbet the inside edge. These were extremely simple, but worked well. If you want something fancy, you could shape a profile and cut compound 45s and key the joints.

[Phil Mueller]

Well Kit, I just started making my own. My first few were simple 5X7s, made with scrap 3/4" thick walnut by about 2" wide.
I routed an easy profile on the face and a rabbet on the underside for the picture and glass.

If you go this route, it can be profiled as simple or complex as you like and have the tools to do it (primarily router/router bits). Don't underestimate the challenge of an accurate miter joint and a square glue up. It was, by far, the most challenging part of the process. I would recommend finishing the wood, prior to glue up.

Yes, it might have a bit of weight to it, but that can be overcome with all the various hangers available today.

I'd suggest you google picture frame making...there's a lot of info available and will give you a good idea of what you will need to do.

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Here's a pic of my latest...walnut with a cherry inner trim.

[Matt Day]

I've probably made 20+ frames in the past 3 years, and a number of big thick ones for larger work.

I like to keep the frame simple without any profiles so the art/picture gets the attention. I add a spline or two to reinforce the miter and use contrasting wood.

As pointed out, there are numerous hangers available that will hold the weight, and if you're really worried just drive a #10 screw into a stud and hang it off that.

[Lee Schierer]

I've made quite a few picture frames from various hardwoods. Because miter joints are more end grain than face grain in nature, be sure to coat both sides with glue to prevent glue starvation. Do a dry fit to insure that your joints fit tight with no gaps. Gaps even small ones will result in joint failure. If you are really worried about the weight or strength of the joint, you can do a half lap miter (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CscUFrlinY4).

[Kit Dumph]

Thanks guys, I have some scrap lying about and will give this a try today most likely. I'm thinking since the actual artwork is laser engraved into the 24x18" piece of alder I might be able drill/screw into that from the back side as well. Making it all pretty solid.

[Steve Peterson]

I usually just go to Aaron Brothers or Michael's and buy a frame if it is a standard size. Most are in the $30-50 price range for a frame of that size.

Steve

[Yonak Hawkins]

My picture frame philosophy is it depends on the usage of the frame. If it's for artwork or fine photography I make a simple frame to, as Matt says, not detract from the subject.

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Also, with frames for paintings, I'm careful not to cover any of the front of the painting, such as with a lip, which would be normal if the frame has glass.

On the other hand, if it's a mirror frame or for a piece that's less important than the decor of the room, I tend to prefer more elaborate frames that complement the room and, in the case of mirrors, frame the worthy subject ornately.

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[Brian Tymchak]

Thanks guys, I have some scrap lying about and will give this a try today most likely. I'm thinking since the actual artwork is laser engraved into the 24x18" piece of alder I might be able drill/screw into that from the back side as well. Making it all pretty solid.

I would not recommend that. If the artwork is solid wood, it is going to expand and contract with seasonal changes in humidity. Any frame you attach to the field will likely come apart at the corners. There are tables that will tell you how much wood will move given a particular moisture level in the wood, but I usually just use a rule of thumb to allow 1/16"-1/8" per lineal foot of board width (across the grain of your board). Assuming your artwork has the grain running with the long dimension, you might get 1/8"-3/16" expansion/contraction across the short dimension. The long dimension won't change much at all.

If you think more in terms of building a raised panel where the panel (your artwork) "floats" in the frame (is not attached), you will be successful.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If doing miter, use Kreg micro jig to pocket screw miters.