New Base For An Old Turntable

[Julie Moriarty]

Is a turntable a musical instrument? :rolleyes: Maybe... :)

Somehow I got myself into another project, bringing an old Dual 1229, I bought in 1972, back to working order.The fix was replacing a couple of small parts and then cleaning and lubricating. The grease tends to goop up over the years. I'm just waiting on some 500,000 weight silicone grease and I should be spinning soon. (No comments about the abandoned bass - I'm holding out to see if my SO, the one with electron microscope eyes, will finish the inlay work.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_05_zps18sjljal.jpg
I took a piece of 4/4 cocobolo that's been sitting in the shop a while and decided to make a turntable base out of it. I copied the original exactly so I had to resaw it and plane it down to 1/2" thickness. But it looked kind of bland. I was thinking of strips of ebony inlay until I saw this:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/Dual_1219_plinth_zpst8sawh43.jpg

This is the original, which is what I have. The platter on mine is also the same as below, and has no metal inner ring on it like the one above.
http://www.doctordual.ca/Quickstart/ImageLib/Dual_1229_Noresco_002.jpg
The only difference is, on mine, there is a metal "United Audio" placard over the black band on the right side. The black band feels like some sort of rubber/plastic material. It could even be caulk.

I took a piece of scrap cocobolo and routed two 1/4" dados. I had some strips of 1/4" wide quilted maple that I glued into place. The fit was a little sloppy but I just wanted to see how the combination looked. I'm thinking recessing the maple might add some character.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_08_zpslxapfwqc.jpg
This is after 3 coats of gloss spray can lacquer. I didn't apply any color to it (dye, stain, shellac or oil). Maybe if I applied some BLO over it before the lacquer the maple would pop more. If this is what I decide on, I'll run some tests with the BLO later.

At a website called Vinyl Engine, I noticed they called the turntable base a "plinth". A turntable wasn't in the images that popped into my mind when seeing that word. So I looked it up and I guess the idea is the turntable base should be heavy and provide stability, as plinths are designed to be. Cocobolo is heavy but by planing it to 1/2" it lost a lot of its weight. But the cocobolo is probably twice the weight of the original factory made base.

Still a lot of mental imagery work and testing left to do.

[Shawn Pixley]

Beautiful! I rememeber the Dual series. Not quite a Thoren, but very good. Your base is beautiful. My old good turntable died a few years back. So now I have a great cartridge in a average turntable.

I like what you have done dressing things up.

[Keith Outten]

I had a Dual 1219 turntable when I was young. These days I have an old Yamaha P-450 that rests in the closet, can't seem to get rid of it because I still have a fair size vinyl record collection.
.

[Julie Moriarty]

I was really surprised how easy it's been (so far) to bring my turntable back to life. You'd turn it on and it was like trying to wake the dead. It would start up very slowly, wouldn't keep a consistent speed and the motor was making funny sounds. The automatic cueing didn't work. All that would happen was the arm would lift, then pause, then sit back right back down and turn off. And I couldn't change the speeds.

At Vinyl Engine I found several PDF service, repair and maintenance files, all free downloads. It's about as good a site for turntables as this is for woodworking.

I followed the guides and ended up taking the motor apart and cleaning and oiling it. It runs smoothly and silently now. I replaced a rubber ring that had cracked in half and what is called a steuerpimple, both are related to the automatic cueing and should solve that problem. From there all I had to do was clean off the old grease and lubricate with new. The speed changer works now and those things that were stuck or dragged seem to operate well. I'll know once the damping grease gets here and I get it all back together.

The guy I bought the rubber ring and pimple from included turntable grease with the order. The only thing I had to find on my own was the 500,000 weight silicone grease (for damping). Turns out that's used in RC racers as a differential grease. All in all, it cost me about $40 and a few hours time. Oh, and another $75 for a new Shure cartridge. The one I had was garbage.

If you guys had the desire, you could probably get the old machines up and running smoothly. There's something magical about taking out those old LPs and listening to them (I've only imagined that so far). I unboxed mine and put them on their old shelf. Just seeing the albums and the songs started a flood of memories. I felt young again. :)

[Mike Hollingsworth]

What are you going to do about the plastic dust cover? They are all broken on the 1229.
(and I'll take one of these over a Thorens any day.)

[Shawn Pixley]

I liked the linear tracking and the low mass tonearm of the Thorens. To each their own.

If I had the money to buy a high end turntable today, I'd get a Wilson Benesch.

[Shawn Pixley]

Nice job fixing it up. The damping would probably be the hardest thing to renew. It looks great!

[Keith Outten]

What are you using for an amplifier?

I think we discussed this awhile back but I can't remember what people said they were using to power up their turntables these days. I haven't seen a stereo amp in a very long time.

[Julie Moriarty]

What are you using for an amplifier?

I think we discussed this awhile back but I can't remember what people said they were using to power up their turntables these days. I haven't seen a stereo amp in a very long time.
Right now, what I have is a Pioneer VSX-39. It's a home theater receiver. I don't think I've ever heard the turntable on it but it sounds decent with the radio and CDs. But I also have my old Sansui QR-6500. It needs more TLC than the Dual did and may be beyond my abilities to fix it up. The AM-FM doesn't work and the pots and switches are in serious need of cleaning. I asked on a vintage audio forum if it's worth it to restore it and the answers were mixed.


What are you going to do about the plastic dust cover? They are all broken on the 1229.
Still have mine. It's scratched and has seen better days but there are no cracks or broken off pieces.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_orig_zpsllxdwvq7.jpg
I'm embarrassed to admit that at one time I used it for an aquarium sump. :o

[David Falkner]

I have a Garrard Zero 92 with the wood-look vinyl over particle board base and have thought about pulling it back out. I bought it new in about '71, maybe '72. It needs a little attention but works and I still have about 115 albums. I think the drive for me to reinvigorate mine is seeing yours - cool look with the Cocobolo and Maple!

[Julie Moriarty]

When I was cutting the side panels, I had the right dimensions but cut the width panels 1/4" too short. It matters because the dust cover would overhang on the sides. So I regrouped and came up with installing feet at the corners. I have seen some custom bases made that way.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_09_zpsthtpdtut.jpg
These are about 1-1/2" square at the base. The black is Gabon ebony.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_10_zps4fntdqx3.jpg
I realized making the ebony on the top flush with the cocobolo/maple panels didn't look right, so I added a slice of maple to the bottom. I'm thinking I'll bevel the bottoms after gluing everything together. The piece of maple on the inside was a thought I had about making the top perimeter edge look a little more robust. Now I'm thinking it needs to be strips of maple and cocobolo with cocobolo being the last piece added.

But if I go in this direction, the original dust cover wouldn't look right. So there's that to attend to also.

[Julie Moriarty]

I glued up the foot pieces (background) then the unexpected happened with the turntable repair - the auto still didn't work! I got everything else working and I can lift the tonearm manually to play records but that wasn't my goal. I wanted it to work like it used to. The brain trust at Vinyl Engine seems to think I'll have to dismantle it further and clean the old grease off the parts I couldn't get to on the first run. And they also insisted if I was to take this on I needed to make a repair stand. So I did.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_01_zpsbgnmr9d1.jpg
I took an old 1x12 piece of pine that used to be a shop shelf. Vinyl Engine has downloadable plans for a universal stand but that meant I had to buy parts. Since this was hopefully going to be the only time I would repair a turntable, I decided to make it specifically for my turntable.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_02_zpsfdvoaixj.jpg
The top hole is the pivot point, the bottom is for... well, you'll see. I used 1/4" shelf pin inserts in the holes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_03_zpszztvu14o.jpg
The plans called for press in threaded inserts at the pivot holes but as I was building it, I went in a different direction.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_04_zpswp6kfh6r.jpg
The pivot wheels are glued to maple blocks that have been cut to accept the sides on the turntable base plate. The one on the right will utilize the hold down screws used when the turntable is moved. They keep the turntable secured to the base. On the left, I installed a 8-32 threaded insert. On the left side of the base plate, there is a small hole. To secure the turntable to the stand, I'll install a 8-32 screw with a rubber washer and screw it into the wheel/block assembly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_05_zps6ekdpw4h.jpg
The bottom holes are used to secure the wheels in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_06_zpsvypp2zue.jpg
I glued in a couple of small pieces of hardwood on the underside of the washer so the washer would sit flush when tightened

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_07_zpsmvjsrlyj.jpg
8-32 securing the left side, factory screw securing the right.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Electronics/rep-std_08_zpsrlaxgrpd.jpg
This is one of those projects that evolved. I didn't know what it was going to end up looking like until I was almost done. But it works and holds the turntable firmly in place.

Now I either have to find a taller seat or shorter table. I'm working on this in the family room because the basement has been taken over by all my other projects. :rolleyes:

[Shawn Pixley]

Julie, Wow you are ambitious and diligent about making the jig. If I wasn't doing a lot of those, I would have scabbed together something and put it in my vise with the ability to turn 90 degrees. Impressive!

[Julie Moriarty]

Wait until you're retired. You'll be looking for things to keep you from crawling the walls!

I now have the turntable almost completely dismantled. :eek: I hope I took enough pictures to get it back together correctly. One thing I am learning from this, you almost need a PhD in lubricants, and quite a lubricant collection, to clean up an old turntable. I have to run out and find another particular kind of lubricant, something called Molykote paste G. Wish me luck. I think I'll need it.

[Mike Sherman]

Nice job on the repair stand, Julie! I foresee many wayward turntables following you home in your future.

[Julie Moriarty]

I foresee many wayward turntables following you home in your future.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Emoticons/nooooooooooo_zpsf4ueac0c.gif


I hope not!

I did get the turntable back together and cycled it manually. Everything worked... then it didn't. Turns out I lost an E-clip somewhere along the way. Once I find a replacement, it should be fully functional. I'll bet it's been a good 25 years since it's spun a record. Just hoping there's no more surprises.

[Julie Moriarty]

Back to work!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/glueup_01_zpsx0lxvdac.jpg
You know what I hate? Ripping tiny little strips on a table saw that is looking to shorten your fingers!!!

That rant aside...

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/glueup_02_zpsidhtxei8.jpg
I'm using figured maple instead of quilted maple, to match the glue ups on the top edges.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/figsap_corners_01_zpswvqhq4lw.jpg
Here's where I was having a hard time. When I looked at the maple/ebony legs, I wasn't sure this was the right way to go. So I took the figured sapele I used to make the body on the first Strat and milled it to a smaller version of the maple corner feet. It's a really beautiful wood but I just don't know if it works with the cocobolo/maple side panels.

What do you think?

[John Coloccia]

Personally, I like it better than the maple/ebony. I thought that was a little too busy, and I thought the maple contrasted with the cocobolo was a little jarring..and then you run into the ebony end caps. That's just my personal tastes, though. I'm totally a minimalist, and that's not to say that I don't think things should be adorned, but I'm always looking to do the absolute minimum to a piece. I like doing just enough that it feels right, and finished.


To me, and again it's just my own taste, what you have there now seems very balanced and pleasing. It's like a sentence, or a musical phrase. The panels make the statement, the the legs are a satisfying period at the end.

[Mel Fulks]

Agree. I don't like the walnut and maple one either. Took me a minute to figure out why, it's the black void next to the warm brown and creme. The one you did is quite nice.

[Shawn Pixley]

I'm not crazy about it nor the earlier version. Maybe just cocobolo legs?

[Julie Moriarty]

I wanted to do the legs in cocobolo but that requires a trip to the hardwood store. It's 45 minutes away and I don't need any other wood. I don't even have enough to cap the maple with cocobolo.

The turntable forum fans voted for the maple/ebony. I agree though that it doesn't seem to work. I don't have much stock 6/4 or larger. This is where you kick yourself for not measuring three times before cutting. :rolleyes: I still don't know what I'll do with the legs.

After an intense day preparing for a meeting Saturday, I had to walk away from the computer and de-stress. I've been thinking about making the Dual logo in MOP bedded in ebony. Like this:
http://static1.squarespace.com/static/51c231b0e4b02e7fb0cf7405/51d746dce4b0a8bc2aea5f3e/51d746dce4b0a8bc2aea5f40/1373062897151/dual.jpg

I started by routing a piece of ebony and was almost done with the "l" when I decided I had better first see if I can even cut the letters. I got them cut but my left hand (the one holding the MOP) is like rubber and my eyes are crossed. I probably had over 500+ magnification.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_inlay_01_zps2lcx8lig.jpg
Thems some wiggly lines! :o But it's my first try at this. I have no idea how anyone can make a living doing this! I spent well over an hour on just those four letters, probably closer to 1-1/2 hours. I don't see a lot of inlay in my future.

I'm going to finish the inlay. It will be about 1-1/2" square when done. Then I'll see how it looks with the maple/ebony feet and go from there.

[John Coloccia]

That's not bad, Julie! Those will clean right up with a file. I agree with you, though. I HATE doing inlay.

[Julie Moriarty]

That's not bad, Julie! Those will clean right up with a file. I agree with you, though. I HATE doing inlay.

John, I have been trying to file them but the going is REALLY slow! Is that normal or do I need better files?

And is this something that requires a boatload of patience or are there faster ways of doing it? I have a StewMac saw with their fine tooth blades and it seems at times the saw isn't even cutting.

[John Coloccia]

Not this saw, I hope?

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Pearl_Cutting_Saw.html

How can you ever get proper tension with that thing? I have a standard jeweler's frame, and I happen to use these blades:

http://www.gesswein.com/p-2302-ultra-swiss-piercing-saw-blades.aspx?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage=

3/0 size


That's not to say they're the best blades...I just bought a gross to try them, and that's a LOT of blades, so I haven't need to buy anymore, especially with the trickle of work in my shop since the kids were born.

The blades should cut very consistently through the MOP. I think that saw frame you have is just not tensioning well. Another "trick" is to concentrate on the saw hand moving up and down, like a machine, and steer the MOP through the blade with the other hand. It's almost like you've turned yourself into a strange sort of manual scroll saw. Sometimes, it's easier to feed the material precisely than it is to steer the saw precisely. In practice, you end up doing a bit of both. I'm assuming you're using a bench pin of some sort, which you must be because I can't imagine how else you're working with the MOP. :)

I'll also bet you dollars to donuts that at least SOME of the wiggle in those lines comes from uncertainty of exactly where you're cutting in relation to the line. When I inlay, or really whenever I need a very precise cut straight off a saw, I try to arrange it so that my blade is splitting the line. This way, no matter how much I wobble, so long as my blade stays inside the line, I've automatically reduced my error to the width of the line minus the saw kerf, and that's usually a very small error indeed. I find that much easier than trying to stay just inside or outside of the line. Some of your cuts are really well done, like some of the curves on the A, so the skill and eye are there. You MIGHT just need a more precise target to aim for.

Yes, it's not easy to file MOP. Coarse files work best, but they're hard to find in small sizes. It's really best to inlay right off the saw. Alien's, like George and probably Mike, can do that. Normal people like us do a lot of fussing and cussing. The fact is, we just don't do enough of it to become proficient. If you did it every day for a week, it would be easy...easier, anyway.

[Mike Sherman]

I have to agree with John on the blade tension. Those Stew-Mac coping/jewelers saws aren't very good. I use several saws with varying throat and lengths that I switch between depending on the piece/shape. For most of the bull work, I use a Craftsman Jewelers saw. Saws with a shorter throat will give you more control for strait-line accuracy. For lettering like what Julie is cutting, I tend to use a medium tooth blade for speed. I mainly use the fine blades with a short throat saw for the smaller pieces and scroll work. One thing of importance to point out is balancing the feed rate and stroke speed to the medium you are cutting to avoid heat build up in the blade and material you are cutting (same as the "speed-and-feed" that machinists always point out). Shell has inconsistencies of hardness throughout the piece that also can cause the blade to wander. Like anything, the more practice you have, the easier it becomes...it's a time consuming task!


It took 26 hours to do this inlay.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l187/rgb500/rosebud%20tiger_zpswazrnpwr.jpg

[Julie Moriarty]

John, you got pretty much all your guesses right, including the saw. The blades SM sells require you to squeeze the frame of the saw closed just to be able to grab the blade ends. It's like they were trying to save on blade material.

Mike, that is some beautiful work! Only 26 hours? It would take me forever and still not be close to yours. Wow! You must have the patience of a saint. Simply beautiful!

As for this sad sack, I sort of worked my way to a method of sawing where I held the shell with my left hand and sawed with my right. The saw handle was below with the blade set to cut on the downstroke. I printed out a sheet with about a dozen Dual images on it and then cut out a letter from one, sprayed it with glue and attached it to the shell in such a way as to minimize cutting. I made one of those boards with the V cutout and did all the cutting there. I cut trying to keep one side of the blade on the line. Occasionally I would lose sight of the line because my eyes lost focus. I'm looking right at it but I can't tell where I am. I think the muscles in my eyes were fatigued. That's usually when I lost the line of the cut.

I found trying to start the cut at precisely one point was difficult. The blade hopped a lot, no matter which direction I sawed. So I would start clear of the line and saw to it. I also found it was better for me to start the cut and keep going around the whole letter rather than cutting it in sections. The problems with starting the cut dictated that. I was surprised how tight of a corner the saw can cut though. Probably the hardest thing for me with cutting the shell was holding it. My hand started to cramp. I was worried the shell might break so maybe I was holding it too tight.

But so far, the thing that's really challenging me is routing the wood. Just like with the bass. Creating the line. Seeing the line while routing. Keeping the dust clear of the line. This has caused the most frustration. I know I have to figure out a way to work through it if I'm ever going to find any enjoyment doing inlay. Already I'm thinking of taking another stab at it. There's this thing in me that when I do something I know I can do better, I have to prove to myself I actually can do better. But that's my problem.

Here's the mess I've created with this TT base build:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/messymind_zps8y9ibyvt.jpg
What's that they say about a messy workshop reflecting on one's state of mind? ;)

[Mike Sherman]

Julie, thank you for the kind words!:) The first thing I notice in the pic of your bench is the "birds-beak" you are using might be causing some of your frustration.
The "v-slot" and length are much too large which will cause chatter when sawing, and also provides less surface area to support/hold the shell. The BB's I use have a "V -slot" aprox 1.5" long and aprox 1/4 - 3/8" at the widest point (edge of BB). It also helps to use very hard wood for the BB clamped as close to the bench for less vertical movement from flexing.

Addressing your starting cut issue. Position the blade against one side of the V-slot using it as a vertical guide, and bring the shell to the blade on the cut line. Use a downward stroke to scribe the initial cut. Once the initial scribe cut is made, position the shell and blade away from the slot wall and cut away.

For the routing/dust issue. If you're going to continue doing inlay work, you might want to consider making a bench top down-draft box/table. Works wonders!

[Julie Moriarty]

Thank you, Mike, for the tips! When I made the BB I just grabbed a straight piece of oak and cut a V on the bandsaw. I thought there was probably some guidelines as to making one but in my infinite wisdom regarding inlay work :rolleyes: I just winged it. I'll follow your advice and make something more appropriate. I also like the downdraft table idea. I've tried the StewMac air pump method. That was maybe 50% effective. And it's such a small area you can't get a vacuum hose in there. If I wasn't wearing a respirator, I would just blow the dust away.

I was playing with the feet again. I did find a piece of cocobolo I can use to cap the maple. I don't want to leave end grain exposed. And I had some narrow strips of cocobolo that I am thinking of doing something like this:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/figmap_corners_03_zps0uxltyh4.jpg
Imagine another strip of cocobolo being in line with the top strip of maple insert on the panel. I think it works better than the maple/ebony feet.

I don't know why I'm putting so much time into this project. It really isn't that important to me. The original base hardly has a scratch on it. Yet here I am doing things I normally don't do for something I can't see myself feeling a sense of pride after it's finished. But I still want to make this something special and I can't figure out why. :confused:

[John Coloccia]

FWIW, for my bench pin, I took a small piece of wood, made the bird's mouth, and screwed it to the end of a 2X4. Then I take that and clamp it in the face vice of my bench. It's nice because I can align it at eye level when I'm sitting down. Less strain. :)

Check this out:
http://knewconcepts.com/precisionMk3.php

It's on my wish list.

[Julie Moriarty]

Check this out: http://knewconcepts.com/precisionMk3.php

It's on my wish list.

http://knewconcepts.com/img/PrecisionSawGuideMk3.jpg

Where's the motor?

[Julie Moriarty]

I think I'm finally getting there. There being that place where I'm most likely not to want to change things anymore.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_01_zpsbzlc7qus.jpg http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_02_zps3gcseqik.jpg
I may not even cap the tops of the legs. But it might be cool to run a strip of cocobolo to match the maple strip along the top edge. Cutting that in would be a challenge.

When the inlay is done, I'll cut the ebony into a square and glue it on the left side, probably over the maple strips. Or should I make it flush with the panel? I've been thinking about forming a bevel around the perimeter of the ebony square but maybe recessing it a bit into the wood and just let the bevel stand proud might look better.

The cocobolo strips on the left leg now stand proud a bit. I'm thinking of leaving that. I still want to do something to the feet, either a 45 bevel or a roundover. I'm leaning toward the bevel and bringing it up to about 1/4" shy of the bottom of the panels. There should be enough left on the bottom of the feet to install decent sized felt cushions. I'll have to run some samples to see how that looks.

[John Coloccia]

http://knewconcepts.com/img/PrecisionSawGuideMk3.jpg

Where's the motor?

It's removable. I usually store mine attached to a good bottle of beer. If you want a more permanently attached motor, it's going to cost a few more bucks...

http://knewconcepts.com/power.php

Obviously, it's overkill at our level, though if I was doing a lot of inlay, I'd seriously consider the hand powered one. The motorized one really makes a lot more sense for metal work, like jewelry. Then again, if I were REALLY doing a lot of inlay, like if that was my specialty (which it never will be), I might consider laser cutting it.

I'll admit that I avoid inlay as much as I can. I buy my truss rod covers pre-inlayed with my logo on them. It's all CNC cut (maybe lasered for all I know), and for what they charge to do it, I would have to have pebbles in my head to muck with it myself.

[Shawn Pixley]

Julie,

Like Mike, I think your bench pin is too thin, has a poor mouth shape and is cantilevered too far out. It probably bouces when you are cutting. That will make it very difficult. I make bench pins out of stiff 5/4 material with a taper to 1/8" or so. If you don't have a socket or dovetail for the bench pin, you'll need a robust clamping arrangement.

Jewelor's saw saws are tensioned by flexing the frame while fastening the blade in. Personally, I don't like that and went to the Knew Concepts style. LOML who teaches silversmithing / Jewery making is old school. She cuts even thinner metal with great precision. Practice helps.

She teaches body position (seat very low and piece just below eye level. The saw is only manipulated vertically. If you tip, twist, or otherwise yaw the saw, accuracy is diminished and blades break. I like to sit higher but can isolate my arm movement in a consistant fashion. Turning is often described as "sawing in place." No forward pressure is present.

[Julie Moriarty]

John, I saw the motorized version and since it was $2,100.00 and the manual version is $335.00 to $400.00 that makes us worth something between $1700.00 and $1765.00. If I bought the $335 version I could increase my value a lot! :D

Shawn, in Larry Robinson's The Art of Inlay, he talked about tapering the end of the bench pin so he can slide the piece off and prevent if from being sucked into the vacuum. He also said his vacuum setup sucks from both the top and bottom. I had the crevice tool clamped to the top when I was cutting and a lot of dust ended up on my cutting hand.

When I grow up, I'll have something like this:
http://robinsoninlays.com/Lindisfarne/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/bench-pin-2.jpg http://robinsoninlays.com/Lindisfarne/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/bench-pin-1.jpg
I really never thought cutting shell would require so much stability, but now that I've done it, I can understand why.

But if I am going to continue doing this (and I'd like to) I need something that will make routing the wood easier. I'm seriously considering this:
http://microfence.com/images/pressreleaseproxandmfcCU_d1.jpg but w/o the edge guide. I would add the dust collector though, even though I might have to cut open the front. And adding another light might be a good idea. I'm VERY far-sighted and need all the help I can get with up-close work.

[Julie Moriarty]

I lost my measurement sheet and had to clamp everything together again to get the measurements for the 1/4" MDF turntable platform that sits in the base. Once it was all clamped together, I decided to check it against the original base by setting it on top. I've been working with top-inside dimensions for the new base.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_03_zpsshylawfv.jpg
Side-to-side the fit is perfect. When I match the front inside of the old to the new, the back of the new extends beyond the old back. That's because the back was modified for the dust cover to be able to lift back and rest in the up position. With the exterior of the new being what it is, I can't see incorporating the old dust cover with the new base. I'll have to figure something else out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_06_zpsdfzsba90.jpghttp://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_05_zps4j8aksr1.jpg
With and without the template I made for forming the new platform. I'm almost tempted to ditch the 1/4" MDF for real wood. Hmmmmmm.....

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_07_zpsimvcsddg.jpg
Preparing to cut the MDF. I'll have to look into the idea of using real wood a little more.

[Julie Moriarty]

I decided to give solid wood a try. It seems like almost everything I do involves, "Let's try this..." :rolleyes:

I had some 1/2" maple from making drawer sides. I used that to make a picture frame, then took my template, drew the outline, and cut the waste with a jigsaw.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_08_zpsrsprvk7w.jpg
The ~1/4" oak plywood template is to the left. I'm putting turner's tape on that so I can use it to rout the profile.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_09_zpswf8lhba7.jpg
Not a good idea using such a thin piece for the template. It was closer to 3/16" thick than 1/4". And an equally worse idea taking this to the router table. I did manage to get it done without incident but it wanted to fly out of my hands several times. Overall, a poor decision.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_10_zpso0gtn6ok.jpg
I had to finish up on the spindle sander. But I'm happy with the decision to use wood over MDF. I think it will add to the aesthetics and strengthen the base. I'll probably dye it ebony to match the original color. The going on this has been slow. Other matters have been more pressing. And the figure-it-out-as-you-go-along method tends to slow things up. A lot.

[Julie Moriarty]

I did a dry fit this morning to make sure the turntable fit okay.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_14_zpsxqp06eux.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_15_zps7n7wzw5q.jpg

My original plans were to dye the maple platform black, like the original, but after I inserted the turntable, I'm leaning toward just leaving it natural.

I still have to do the cocobolo trim on the feet. I went to Woodcraft yesterday with my 10% off birthday coupon and treated to myself to a few things. :D One of them was a mini aluminum miter box, perfect for the 1/4 x 1/4 cocobolo strips. The SCMS was overkill and every once in a while it grabbed the cutoff and sent it airborne. I'll wait on the inlay. I ordered the Micro Fence Dremel base but it won't be here for several weeks. I guess they don't carry any in stock.

The other thing I'm questioning is using the old dust cover or trying to make a new one. That might be above my pay grade.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_dc_01_zpspagqd5he.jpg
I really don't care for the look but the challenge of making a new one that worked with the base is daunting. I wouldn't even know where to start.

[Chris Padilla]

Clear acrylic or plexiglass might be a start. They glue together fairly easily and cleanly...once you get the hang of it. :)

[Mike Sherman]

looks great, Julie! Time to make a matching wooden top for it.

[Julie Moriarty]

Time to make a matching wooden top for it.
You make it sound so easy. :eek:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/Woodworking/Dual%201229%20Plinth/1229_plinth_17_zpstvelfqjn.jpg
First coat of lacquer. I sprayed a bit too thick on two of the sides and the cocobolo bled into the maple. :( I'm not very good with spray cans. My HVLP sprayer is packed away.

[Julie Moriarty]

All done!

http://www.julimorcreations.com/Images/Plinth/1229_plinth_18.jpg

http://www.julimorcreations.com/Images/Plinth/1229_plinth_19.jpg

Okay, ALMOST all done. Still have to do the inlay. I'm sure it's no surprise THAT'S not done. :rolleyes:

[Mel Fulks]

Nice design and colors, kinda carnelian and pearls.

[John Coloccia]

That's very nice, Julie. The big question is, what records do you plan on playing on that thing?

[Julie Moriarty]

The big question is, what records do you plan on playing on that thing?

Why, the greatest album of all time, John!
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab233/jules42651/albums_01_zpsnqjedh9w.jpg
And no laughing at that shelf. I built it with a Craftsman circular saw and router c. 1978. Oh, and a 1/2" Skill drill that I used to drill holes into the shelf sides for dowels made from a broomstick. :D

[Julie Moriarty]

I finally got the chance to get back to the logo inlay. My routing wasn't the best, but neither was the cuts I did on the MOP. Hey, first time. :o

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=314148&d=1432495527

Before I applied the CA, I packed in some ebony dust to fill the voids. When I applied the CA, it looked to me like the MOP was melting. There was white bleeding out of it. I hit it with accelerator and it smoked - too much CA, I guess. As I sanded it down, the bleed out stayed in certain areas. I had to dig those areas out with an X-acto knife and fill them with ebony dust. I reapplied CA but didn't use accelerator and let it set overnight. As I sanded round 2, the black in the MOP began to emerge. I don't know why. I finished sanding at 320.

The "l" wasn't perfectly straight but if I sanded it anymore, I would have lost the thickness. I was able to get all the letters to be pretty even across the bottom. I don't want to settle for this but I also am not ready to start all over again. We're only one garage painting away from calling in realtors and after that I'll need a break. And if the house sells quickly, I may not be able to get back to starting over until we're settled in the new place.