Router Table Usage....couple questions...

[Corey Hallagan]

My old router table was a fairly basic Craftsman table with one of those resin fences. In the past, when using bearing bits I didn't use the fence it was just to hard to adjust. if I was routing a rabbet with a bearing guided bearing bit I just eased the wood up against the bearing and rolled it along and thru. Same with round overs or any other bearing guided bits. Is this proper useage or a no no?

If you wanted to router a 3/8 in rabbet do you set the fence up so that the bearing is not used and only the fence supports to work piece or do you set it up so both the fence and bearing is supporting the work piece? That would be very difficult to do I would think.

So I guess what I am asking if I have a large rabbeting bit that can be used to make several sizes of rabbets with different bearings would you set it up so that you have a small bearing on it to cut a 1/2 and then just adjust the fence so that you only remove 3/8 waste?

Additional question. When I bought the Bench Dog, I did so thinking I would add one of those aftermarket router shutoff switches that you plug the router into. Didn't realize that the front edge of the table would be the miter track and no wood is underneath to mount the switch. Even if there was, still couldn't do it as the door would interfere. Can't mount it on the edge of the side either, not enough overhang for at least the craftsman switch, don't know about the Rosseau (sp?) switch if it mounts from the top or the back?? Any suggestions, I kind of hate in the case of emergency having to reach in and shut off the router that way.

Thanks for your help.

Corey

[Corey Hallagan]

Just figured out that Bench Dog makes a router switch that can be mounted under their miter track and on top of the fence, side of the cab etc. Why didn't I see that before, I only looked at it for a month!!!

Corey

[Jules Dominguez]

Corey, I have a bare-bones Woodhaven router tabletop I bought years ago and mounted on a homemade stand. I keep a 3 hp Ryobi variable-speed soft-start plunge router in it.

This will probably get some laughs from the hardcore equipment guys, but I bought a combination 110v receptacle and switch from the borg, and mounted it in a junction box right under the front of the table. I don't think the switch is any more than an ordinary light switch, but I probably checked it at the time to be sure it was amply rated. Anyway, I plug the router cord into the receptacle, leave the switch on the router turned on all the time, and use the receptacle switch to start/stop the router. I use a short length of heavy duty extension cord (probably 14 gage) to connect the switch to a wall receptacle, and I plug it in only when I'm using the router. When I change router bits I unplug the router from the combo receptacle/switch.
My fence is a Woodsmith design, made of laminated layers of 3/4 inch plywood, 2 inches thick and about 3" high, but only 3/4" high at the ends for clamping to the tabletop. I use a 6" bar clamp at each end. Easy to adjust, and has a plastic plenum on the back for a 2 1/2" shop-vac connection, which catches 99% of the chips and dust. I have another fence mounted to an Incra Jig which I can clamp to the table for very precise adjustments, but rarely need it.
It wouldn't buy you anything to use the bearing and the fence at the same time, although they can be positioned fairly easily easily so that they're flush. When I want to use the fence I position it so that the bearing is even with the front of the fence or at least doesn't protrude. I use the fence when it's convenient and/or the safest way to do a job, and ditto for the bearing. The shop vac arrangement usually makes the fence most convenient most of the time. I use a smaller router for hand-held work.
Another thing, I put indelible arrows on the tabletop, just over the switch, showing the on-off directions of the switch. Not that that's likely to do any good in an accident, as it would be over before you knew it happened.
I've used this arrangement for years, no problems.

[Allen Bookout]

Corey, I am not a router table user but am just setting up now so am going to experiment myself. I watched the DVD video on using rail and style bits and raised panels from MLCS and the guy was using a foot switch and it really looked like the way to go so I just ordered one today. They are having a sale ($23.95 instead of $43.95 - free shipping) and I ordered the one that stays on without having to hold down on it even though it looks like that they prefer the other one for routers. I just didn't want to have to hold down on it all of the time that I wanted the router to run.

Here is the link if you are interested:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/footswtc.html

[Larry Crim]

I also use a standard 15a light switch on mine with a cover to stop me from accidently switchihg it on I also have another kill switch/breaker built into the other end that I use for safety when changing bits just for added protection.

[Chris Barton]

Hi Corey,


I use 2 fences with my router table. My table is a reproduction of the "improved Norm table" from NYW. I have one fence that is made of 3/4 MDF and has movable wings, t-slot track, dust collection, etc... and is what I use day to day. I have used it with bearing bits before where I buried the bit inside the adjustable mouth of the fence and only used a portion of the cutting surface, it works very nicely. My other fence is an Incra Ultra and I use it to make joints on my router table. The incra takes a little practice to "get it" but, once you do you will never want to make a doevtail joint any other way.

Good Luck!

[Mike Cutler]

Corey. I use the fence and the bearings on Rabbet's and Tongue and Groove bits together all the time. I know that it isn't necessary due to the bearings, but I like the increased sense of control. I set the bearing to about a 1/16th proud of the fence and essentially use the fence as a real long starting pin. I also like the control when I come off of the bit and bearing at the end of the cut.
I would use the correct sized bearing for the rabbet, in addition to the fence. The bearing is bearing/bit relationship is already established and easy to repeat
The best setup, in my opinion, to have for a table mounted router for safety is a foot actuated switch to turn the power on and off. You don't have to reach for anything or let go of the material, just pick up your foot and the router shuts off.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys I appreciate the info and help. I am wondering about large diameter bits like Rail and Stile bits and their bearings. Would you set it up to use both the bearing and the fence in this application?

Thanks,
Corey

[Jim Becker]

No way would I use a panel cutter without the fence...that's a lot of metal swinging and having the fence to provide addtional support, not to mention mounting convenience for the required hold-downs. (without them, you risk a poor and/or uneven cut)

[Corey Hallagan]

Jim, it will definitely be an easier to do with the new table. All my R & S work in the past has been done with a 1/4 shaft bit and small 1 1/8 router and a router speed control :eek: . I will be picking out a 1/2 shaft R & S bit soon.

Corey

[Mike Cutler]

Corey. The R&S, and panel bits need a fence ,and if avilable, a power feeder. These take a lot of material in one pass and can be a bit intimidating the first few times.
I use the fence for the R&S bits. I set the fence for the final depth, and have a "spacer" that goes on the fence for the first pass, Cheating I know, but I don't like all the noise if I try to do it one pass. I've also taken to using "zero clearance" pieces if 1/8" laminate lately. It works out really nice. Dust collection suffers, but I seem to be getting better results.