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tom blankenship
03-27-2015, 6:41 PM
Greetings,

I am fitting a small drawer (about 11x10x3 inches) into a side table. It is a flush fit (no false front) drawer on wooden runners. The reveal is fine but I am struggling with getting the drawer front even with the rails while gluing in wood stops. It seems I have seen a method by which a wood block is glued to the back apron that is fitted with a screw. The screw can be turned to adjust its head to bear on the back of the drawer. Thus the front of the drawer can be precisely adjusted to be even with the horizontal rails.

Does this seem like a good idea for fitting a light duty drawer?

Thanks!

tom

Kent A Bathurst
03-27-2015, 6:46 PM
Is the top already on the table?

tom blankenship
03-27-2015, 6:49 PM
No, the top is not yet on the table.

bill tindall
03-27-2015, 7:24 PM
If the drawer is built as drawers have been historically built where the bottom slides in from the back (makes repair 200 years from now easy) just position the drawer without its bottom, and rub joint a small glue block on the drawer divider. Add a brad or two when the glue dries.

Jim Dwight
03-27-2015, 7:32 PM
I like to stop my drawers on the back of the dresser. You could put the screw on the back of the drawer.

Kent A Bathurst
03-27-2015, 8:30 PM
No, the top is not yet on the table.

Can you clamp a board across the drawer opening in front, then clamp the drawer to that? Now you have the drawer aligned.

Then - glue or screw a couple stop blocks to the runners behind the drawer.

Seems pretty simple, but I might be missing something here...........

tom blankenship
03-27-2015, 10:37 PM
Can you clamp a board across the drawer opening in front, then clamp the drawer to that? Now you have the drawer aligned.

Then - glue or screw a couple stop blocks to the runners behind the drawer.

Seems pretty simple, but I might be missing something here...........

Thanks to each of you for responding!

Kent........no, you are not missing anything. I did clamp a board across the front as you advise, with alignment accomplished. But the drawer is too long to have a useful length of runner to glue a block to. I shall build a shorter drawer in the future.

tom

glenn bradley
03-27-2015, 11:01 PM
I have screw stops similar to those that you describe on my current nitestands. My screws are in the ends of the drawer sides. Been working for years.

Kent A Bathurst
03-28-2015, 12:30 AM
Thanks to each of you for responding!

Kent........no, you are not missing anything. I did clamp a board across the front as you advise, with alignment accomplished. But the drawer is too long to have a useful length of runner to glue a block to. I shall build a shorter drawer in the future.

tom

Glenn's solution is a good one. Just giving you options.

OK - how about blocks screwed into the back face of the table itself? Gotta be some place back there for at least a shim's thickness.............

OR - On a couple occasions, circumstances forced me into this: Tee nuts in the back of the drawer. Machine screw into it, with nut and lock washer [and flat washer] to lock and hold the protruding screw in position. You have a bit of metal hanging sticking out of the inside of the drawer back, but nobody will ever get back to it anyway..........