Mike Schwing
06-02-2003, 8:34 AM
I had been very intrigued about the Miller Dowell construction method, and since I needed to rebuild a teak bench for one of the boats, I thought I'd give it a try. The bench had been screwed together with brass screws but it was in need of service and I thought I'd plug up the old holes and then use the dowells wherever needed.
The "kit" I bought consisted of a bag of probably 50 of their stepped dowells and one stepped spiral bit.
( www.millerdowell.com )
Anyway, I like the concept but the execution was somewhat problematic.
The stepped bit works just fine, until it gets to the widest part of the bit, which is the top of the dowell. As soon as it hits that next step the bit grabs and pulls itself down very rapidly into the workpiece - often effectively going deeper than the dowell or so close to flush that there is a recess when tapped firmly in.
It also blows out end grain and long grain. I was working with 3/4" teak and the bit grabbed up the grain and blew out anything remaining between the hole and the end of the workpiece. It might work better further away from the end but I don't see many such uses.
The bit also tore out a significant enough area around the dowell that a flawless fit was not possible - in almost every case.
I was unhappy enough with the results that I abandoned the idea half way through and returned to the Fuller bit and countersink, which as you guys probably know, produces perfect holes.
I'm planning on asking Miller for a refund.
The "kit" I bought consisted of a bag of probably 50 of their stepped dowells and one stepped spiral bit.
( www.millerdowell.com )
Anyway, I like the concept but the execution was somewhat problematic.
The stepped bit works just fine, until it gets to the widest part of the bit, which is the top of the dowell. As soon as it hits that next step the bit grabs and pulls itself down very rapidly into the workpiece - often effectively going deeper than the dowell or so close to flush that there is a recess when tapped firmly in.
It also blows out end grain and long grain. I was working with 3/4" teak and the bit grabbed up the grain and blew out anything remaining between the hole and the end of the workpiece. It might work better further away from the end but I don't see many such uses.
The bit also tore out a significant enough area around the dowell that a flawless fit was not possible - in almost every case.
I was unhappy enough with the results that I abandoned the idea half way through and returned to the Fuller bit and countersink, which as you guys probably know, produces perfect holes.
I'm planning on asking Miller for a refund.