Cedar fencing

[Lee Schierer]

My daughter wants to put in cedar panel fencing. I've never done this type of fencing before. She lives in southern New Jersey where the soil is pretty sandy. How should the posts be set in this type of soil? Most likely they will use treated posts.

What is the best way to attach the fence panels to the posts? I would think a countersunk deck type screw would just split the cedar. Do they make a round head screws that won't split the wood that can be power driven.

[Stan Calow]

Lee I just replaced an eight foot section of cedar fence. I used stainless steel deck screws I had lying around - no pre-drilling and no splits. Most people around here use galvanized or aluminum nails, the twisty ones if they want to get fancy. There is a potential for staining if you use the wrong kind.

[Kent A Bathurst]

What is the best way to attach the fence panels to the posts? I would think a countersunk deck type screw would just split the cedar. Do they make a round head screws that won't split the wood that can be power driven.

Pre-drill all holes. If not, then one day there will be splits. There will be splits.

And - use SS screws to avoid staining.

[Peter Stahl]

Lee, I live in SJ and when they did my fence they only used cement at the posts for the gates. Yes they did use treated posts. They only toe nailed the rails into the posts. Fence is still standing after 15 years. What town in SJ is she in? Some areas are wetter than others. My yard stays pretty dry.

[Bruce Page]

I have over 2 hundred feet of ceder fencing. You will not have a splitting problem if the screws are driven flush. I never pre-drill.

[Rich Engelhardt]

My daughter wants to put in cedar panel fencing. I've never done this type of fencing before. She lives in southern New Jersey where the soil is pretty sandy. How should the posts be set in this type of soil? Most likely they will use treated posts.

What is the best way to attach the fence panels to the posts? I would think a countersunk deck type screw would just split the cedar. Do they make a round head screws that won't split the wood that can be power driven.
Check local code.
They may require tubes.
More and more places are going to that.

Treated is fine. I always get a gallon of roof cement and coat the bottoms of the posts up to about three inches above where the cement line will be.
Treated is also fine for the cross rails since they will be mostly hidden.

Don't get the pre made panels.
Try to avoid the 5/8" cedar fence also. (that's all Lowes and Home Depot around me carry)
Shop around for dog eared 3/4" fence pieces.
Usually they come in 6 foot lengths instead of the shorter lengths the home centers like Lowes and Home Depot carry.

Menards carries them.
If there's no Menards, then check with a few local fence companies to see if they will sell you some at a reasonable price.
(I used to get mine from Acme Fence here in Akron Ohio.)

Personally, I like a shadow box design since it offers two "good" sides. YMMV.

I usually slap the individual pieces up with an 18 ga. brad nailer and two brads - one in the top cross piece and one in the bottom, then go back and drive all the screws once I have all the pieces tacked up.

With one tacking and one handing pieces and one running pieces, the three people can knock out 50 feet of fence almost instantly.
Two people with drill/drivers and deck screws can finish that section off in no time at all.

Ring shank nails can also be used. Just make sure they are galvanized or stainless.

I use either deck screws or ring shank nails.
A palm nailer is a worthwhile investment if you decide to go that route.

Don't use anything else - - -otherwise the first good wind you get will tear the fence apart.

Honest 3/4" thick cedar won't split with deck screws. The grain is too "gnarly".

Deck screws should be ok for the cross pieces, but, I use the structural grade screws or Spax just to be sure.
Now those you may have to pre drill since the pine can split.

[Val Kosmider]

The latest issue of FHB has a section on constructing a Cedar Privacy Fence. It seems like a little bit of overkill (given the price of cedar!) but I'll bet you might get some ideas about setting posts, fasteners, and finish which could guide some of your decisions.

[Joe Tilson]

If you use SS screws Make sure they are at least 305 grade or you will get staining in the future. A lot of screws from big box stores are 18-8 and do not have enough nickle to prevent staining. If you use concrete to anchor the post make sure the post are completely dry or they will begin to rot earlier. Concrete will hold the moisture in the wood. Just a voice of experience. Drill pilot holes to prevent splitting as stated above.

[Rich Engelhardt]

It seems like a little bit of overkill (given the price of cedar!)
6 foot cedar dog ear pieces are only a few cents more than the treated ones if/when you catch the right sale.
IIRC, cedar runs about $2.00 ea and treated is about $1.90.

Plus cedar will outlast treated by a good margin. Our cedar fence was installed back in 1988 and other than a few pieces I replaced over the years, it looks brand new.

[Alana Pridham]

I think stainless crews will do good. As one of friend constructed a granny flat in her backyard with separateectrance and had cedar fencing. The Granny flat builders (http://grannyflatsolutions.com.au/) guys most probably used stainless screws.