Scraping Plane

[Neil Gaskin]

Does anyone have an opinion on a scraping plane vs. a card scraper?

I'm just diving into hand planes and various other hand-tools in the last year and enjoying it. I'm in the middle of a project with some moderately large surface areas and was going to hand-scrape the flats with a card scraper but then I started looking at scraping planes and wondering if this would produce a "better" finish or be easier for longer/larger areas.

Plus, I'm always up for new toys.

[Brian Holcombe]

Hand scrapers have some utility, they are good to have around. As you progress you may find a scraper plane to be less than useful.

[Alfred Kraemer]

Neil,
It depends on what you mean by moderately large. I have scraped a number of solid wood table tops, oak, ash, and alder. I used a card scraper for the less accessible areas and some problem areas, but for the main work I used a no 80 cabinet scraper. A great tool and easy to figure out. Card scrapers will get somewhat hot on you fingers. It's amazing how much heat can develop during sraping. If you have some surface unevenness to worry about the cabinet scraper will be an advantage over the card scraper.
The scraping plane would be even better, but I would use a well tuned plane first if the surface is very irregular. Consider a no 80 you can get them new as well as vintage at good prices. I got mine for $4 without a blade, cut a blade from an old handsaw, and it works like a charm. To me scraper planes are more of a specialist tool, they are definitely not as common.

Alfred

[Neil Gaskin]

Thank you both for the information. I appreciate it.

[Winton Applegate]

Nah dude, nah.
About the only use for a scraper plane is finishing marquetry and stuff like that on a fairly small scale.
Card scrapers on a large surface are pretty worthless to.

Just plane it. If you practice on the same exact wood before you go to the surface of your project and perfect your technique you will have a great experience. If you are having problems with your practice surfaces we will help you with any problems.

I bought this big beautiful scraper plane. I never really found it very useful for my hard problem surfaces. The edges dulled pretty fast, did not take heavy enough cuts to remove tear out and the blade is more finicky to set than my bench planes.

I have a ton of card scrapers mostly I went through the brands like wild fire trying to find a decent product. Then I got competent with them. I still find very little use for them. I just plane surfaces and am ecstatic with the results . . . I could not want better surfaces than I am getting off the planes so the scrapers sit.

What is the wood and project you have in mind ? What makes you think you need to scrape it ?

[paul cottingham]

Stanley no. 80 style scraper. Easy to use, and much, much easier on hands and thumbs.

309804

This is is the Lee Valley one. You should be able find a used Stanley fairly easily.
(I hope I'm not violating TOS by posting this pic.)

[Neil Gaskin]

The current project is a blanket chest and a TV easel The chest top and side panels are not huge. I'm trying to smooth out the top a bit and honestly I'm not having that successful of a time at using a hand plane to smooth out areas much wider than the plane blade. I either set the blade too deep or not deep enough. When set to deep I get clean passes but Im having trouble achieving a flat surface, to light and Im not making progress. I cant find the sweet spot yet. The wood is walnut. Much like my golf game, equipment is not the problem.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have a number of card scrapers, a Stanley 80, and an LV scraper plane.

All are for different tasks.

The cards are terrific for spot touch-up work. I use them on the glue-line joint in tabletop glue-ups - that is all I need to get them dead-nuts in line. Very quick to grab-and-go.

But - you are holding them "curved" - so only a part of that curve's radius is really hitting the surface.

The plane's blade is flat all across its width - so you are literally planing the surface. Correct choice for larger surfaces.

The 80? Well - it is a smaller, localized version of the plane. Might be an unnecessary accessory, but it looks cool in the till, so...............

[Winton Applegate]

Neil,
HAULT !
Put the hand plane down and back away from the current project.
Until you master the tool DO NOT use it on your project.
Get some practice wood, same as the project, and "play scales" until you can "play a tune" (produce a smooth surface much wider than the plane).
Make over lapping passes and plane across the whole surface.
Have some slight camber in the blade or at least round the corners of the blade so it does not leave square edged gouges in the work.
Read and or watch some plaining videos/DVDs.
Use a straight edge and winding sticks to verify the surface.
Soon you will be making flat panels that are as flat as your table saw table. Seriously.
Keep us posted.
Can you show us a photo of the surface that is not up to what you expect it to be ?

[Neil Gaskin]

I've been practicing on scrap, I didnt go to far on the project material. Ive been reading, not so much watching videos. anything in particular you would recommend? In terms of the panel I was trying to smooth, I put it through a wide belt sander. Certainly easier, but Im enjoying using handtools more than power tools lately.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've been practicing on scrap, I didnt go to far on the project material. Ive been reading, not so much watching videos. anything in particular you would recommend? In terms of the panel I was trying to smooth, I put it through a wide belt sander. Certainly easier, but Im enjoying using handtools more than power tools lately.

LN has some good videos on setup and use of hand planes. Watch them, and in the meantime, ship me your wide belt sander - you don't need it any more.

[Neil Gaskin]

Ill check out the videos, as for the wide belt sander, it was a bit of a pain in the ass to get, so Im keeping it, plus the shipping would kill you. we paid 800 for a 3 belt 43 in, paid 1200 to transport and set it, then figured out we didnt have enough juice in the building, as it turns out, we were bidding on it against another guy I know around here who has a smaller unit. we traded straight up, he got a bigger 3 belt machine and I got a newer single belt that we can use without spending five grand to hook up. Win win.

[Winton Applegate]

I put it through a wide belt sander.
Quitter
Ohkaaaaaa
who do we have up next in the forum with a question ?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Ill check out the videos, as for the wide belt sander, it was a bit of a pain in the ass to get, so Im keeping it, plus the shipping would kill you. we paid 800 for a 3 belt 43 in, paid 1200 to transport and set it, then figured out we didnt have enough juice in the building, as it turns out, we were bidding on it against another guy I know around here who has a smaller unit. we traded straight up, he got a bigger 3 belt machine and I got a newer single belt that we can use without spending five grand to hook up. Win win.

Neil - thanks for the details. Good success story, as it all turned out.

For future reference, seeing as you are relatively new, your first assumption should always be that anything from Kent, Winton, or Myk could be tongue-in cheek. That is not always the case - not by a loooong shot, but is always a possibility that should be considered. I'd keep my eye on that Malcolm guy as well - he can be slippery. ;)

[Winton Applegate]

Yah like Kent said,
I'm glad to help if I can,
YusYokin' with the "quitter" comment.
Seemed like kind of an end to this problem though.

[Neil Gaskin]

I took no offence Ive been called far worse... this hand tool stuff is fun and all, but Im not ditching my power tools anytime soon