Help me pick out a bandsaw

[Phillip Gregory]

I am looking to get a bandsaw to do some resawing on. Most of what I will be resawing are old reclaimed ~3x6 to ~3x10 barn oak rafters (which are beautiful, by the way) and possibly some oak and walnut off a bandsaw sawmill as my Dad keeps talking about getting a sawmill. I have an 8" jointer, a 15" stationary thickness planer, and a 240 volt panel in my shop. I also have a 3 hp cabinet saw with a riving knife which I have done some resawing on (the proper "joint a face and two sides, and leave a little "bridge" left that you cut through with a handsaw method) and that simply led me to realize why people get bandsaws to do that work. Here's pretty much what I will need it to do:

1. Resaw 6-10" thick hardwood. This will be its main function.
2. Rip wide slabs and wavy-edged boards that I wouldn't feel comfortable ripping on my cabinet saw prior to resawing. This may have to be done on some still kind of green wood (unless I want to wait five years for it to completely dry.)
3. Cutting of outside curves and profiles for furniture projects. I don't intend to try to use the bandsaw as a scroll saw, it would be more of a more-precise jigsaw with the ability to cut through stacked parts.

I am guessing something in the 17-19" range would probably be the most suitable after reading the threads here. I don't have any personal experience with bandsaws so your input would be very welcome. Budget isn't firm but I'd like to keep it under $1500 or so. I don't have any particular brand loyalty but I do live very close to the Grizzly showroom in Springfield, MO, so that's where pretty well all of my other equipment has come from.

I would also appreciate input on blades as well as pretty well all I know is "use a 2-3 TPI hook blade that's the second-to-widest the saw will take."

[Joe Pack]

I have a Grizzly 0513 and it does everything I want it to do, including what you want to use it for. Are there better saws? Probably. Would they make a difference for me? Probably not - I am an amateur wood butcher. What I would spend money on are good blades...the blade is, in my humble opinion, more important than the saw being used. I think any of the 17" Grizzly saws would fit the bill well without breaking the bank.
http://grizzly14-px.rtrk.ca/products/category/420000?utm_source=ReachLocal&utm_medium=Search&utm_campaign=Bandsaws

[Bill White]

Go Grizz. You won't be unhappy.
Bill

[Rich Riddle]

Grizzly 0513x3b model rates very well and has a good brake.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Grizzly 0513x3b model rates very well and has a good brake.

Rich, I know nothing about Grizz bandsaws, so I looked at their website for that number, and I don't see it. See some other 0513's though. Looks like there are 2 and 3 hp models.

Personally I'd find an old machine. Usually enables better features for less $. The Grizz looks fine too though.

[Rob Holcomb]

I think Rich meant G0513X2B model

[Lewis Ehrhardt]

I recently upgraded to the Griz 513x2 from a 14-inch Powermatic. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had bought the Grizzly first. I'm sawing 10-12 inch logs, stocking up my wood supply. I've sawn pecan, cherry, oak, some unknown wood that I'm still waiting on the tree to put on leafs so I can identify it and a lot of spalted oak. Very accurate, and plenty of power. I wish I had gotten the one with the brake though.

[Ray Newman]

Cannot make a recommendation on a big band Saw. But I would suggest that it might be advisable to invest in a hand-held medal detector, especially since you will be working with old barn wood. Speaking from experience with reclaimed and old lumber, 'ya nevva' know what is in those beams and boards.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I have a MM16 great saw. Picked it up used off CL, 4 hp and about 15" of resaw.

[Rich Riddle]

I think Rich meant G0513X2B model

Sorry about the mistyping, I did mean the G0513X2B.

[Phillip Gregory]

I have looked at the Grizzly G0513s (G0513X*) or maybe the G0514X2. I know the latter is a little larger, can support a little larger blade, has an extra horsepower in the motor, and weighs a little more, plus has a crank angle adjust on the table. Resaw height is the same. Do you think it would be worth the extra ~$500 or so over the G0513X* models?


Cannot make a recommendation on a big band Saw. But I would suggest that it might be advisable to invest in a hand-held medal detector, especially since you will be working with old barn wood. Speaking from experience with reclaimed and old lumber, 'ya nevva' know what is in those beams and boards.

Already picked one up from Rockler. There are a fair number of both old square and newer round nails in these boards. Having to replace jointer inserts or saw blades isn't fun.


Rich, I know nothing about Grizz bandsaws, so I looked at their website for that number, and I don't see it. See some other 0513's though. Looks like there are 2 and 3 hp models.

Personally I'd find an old machine. Usually enables better features for less $. The Grizz looks fine too though.

I live in SW MO and that kind of stuff is pretty rare outside of the Northeast. I look at eBay and Craigslist and you guys get all of the good stuff. What we get out here is a small number of beat-up and rusty benchtop Sears and off-brand stuff somebody had lying around in a corner in the basement, garage, or often outside and wanted to get rid of because it's junk. Occasionally somebody will sell something slightly better like a beat-up 14" Delta or a 1980s Grizzly unit. But of course they list it for 90% of what a new one would sell for. The only piece of "old arn" I can find in about a day's drive is at 36" Fay and Eagan bandsaw. Very neat, but lists at way out of my price range ($3200) and probably is too large to fit in my shop (I have an 8 foot door is all) and too heavy to pick up with my tractor's loader (~1100 lb capacity.)

[mike mcilroy]

I have a Rikon 14" that will give the resaw capacity you want, and has been great for me not sure about their lager saws. Have read good things about Grizzly saws and can attest to their customer service and the quality of the cyclone I got from them.
+ 1 for your thoughts on the blade being important

[Rich Riddle]

I do recommend purchasing used old OWWM if you can find them. Sometimes they take a very long time to materialize depending on your location. The original poster did not indicate a location and some locations have far more availability.

Also, some people prefer to use tools and not work on them. You need to expect to work on a used one. Some folks are good craftsman but not good mechanics. Depends on the individual user.

Personally, all my band saws were purchased used. Everyone of them, including the 24" being rebuilt now has been rebuilt before use. That said, both Grizzly saws you mention are available for use at the showrooms. They were both very impressive last year when used.

[Jim Finn]

I resaw a lot of 8" cedar and maple on my GO555 grizzly with resaw fence and riser. I also agree that the blade is most important. I use a 1/2" 3TPI carbide blade.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have looked at the Grizzly G0513s (G0513X*)

I live in SW MO and that kind of stuff is pretty rare outside of the Northeast. I look at eBay and Craigslist and you guys get all of the good stuff. What we get out here is a small number of beat-up and rusty benchtop Sears and off-brand stuff somebody had lying around in a corner in the basement, garage, or often outside and wanted to get rid of because it's junk. Occasionally somebody will sell something slightly better like a beat-up 14" Delta or a 1980s Grizzly unit. But of course they list it for 90% of what a new one would sell for. The only piece of "old arn" I can find in about a day's drive is at 36" Fay and Eagan bandsaw. Very neat, but lists at way out of my price range ($3200) and probably is too large to fit in my shop (I have an 8 foot door is all) and too heavy to pick up with my tractor's loader (~1100 lb capacity.)


Actually in my experience, there are a lot of options for used old iron in the old industrial belt of the midwest if you want invest the time looking. Nice Oliver 192 in Fayetteville Arkansas right now for example. I have to pull the top wheel off my 36" Oliver to get into a 7' door, and it weights something over 1000#. I've moved it with a mini skidsteer, most tractors would be fine to move one. Agree with Rich's last post though for sure, old iron isn't for all.

[Phillip Gregory]

I resaw a lot of 8" cedar and maple on my GO555 grizzly with resaw fence and riser. I also agree that the blade is most important. I use a 1/2" 3TPI carbide blade.

Does anybody have any specific recommendations for a blade, for either the 513 or 514 series saw?

[John Sanford]

There's a 36" beast (http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=33766278&cat=&lpid=&search=bandsaw&ad_cid=12) available out here for $500, comes with a 5hp motor. Looks more like an OWWM project, but hey, it will likely handle anything you throw at it.

[Garth Almgren]

My local Costco had a Laguna 14" bandsaw that had 14" of resaw capacity. Looked like a really nice saw for a really great price.

[Matt Day]

My local Costco had a Laguna 14" bandsaw that had 14" of resaw capacity. Looked like a really nice saw for a really great price.
Laguna in Costco? What was the price? Just curious.

[glenn bradley]

Admitting there are better saws for more money, the Griz 513 series packs a lot of bang for the buck. I have the "tweener" G0513X (not X2). This is just like the X2 but, without the cast iron trunnions. I can upgrade for under $100 but, I resaw a fair amount and have never noticed I didn't have them. I just kinda forgot about it. Anyway, non-issue since they offer them standard now. I have wished for more power on some 10" - 11" resaws in white oak but, that's two occasions out of a thousand.

[Garth Almgren]

Laguna in Costco? What was the price? Just curious.
This was a couple months ago, but I think it was about $1300 or $1400. Significantly lower than the MSRP anyway. They only had a handful of them, and it may have only been at my local store (Woodinville, WA).

[Art Mann]

I don't know too much about band saws but I have had a little experience with old salvaged oak. There was a barn built back in the 1930's in my father's back yard. It had an interior wall that ran all the way from front to back. He got to the point where he didn't want the wall all the way across so he let me salvage a dozen or so 8" X 6' by 5/4 white oak planks. The wood was a beautiful medium brown color rather than the more normal tan color of new wood. The most noteworthy thing about the wood was that it was extremely tough - like hickory tough. Unfortunately, I squandered most of it on trivial projects back when I didn't realize the value of such material. It would have made a spectacular Morris chair.

[Doug Ladendorf]

There is a 1970's 20" Powermatic bandsaw in Colorado on eBay that isn't getting the love it deserves. It has the extra resaw option and will go to about 20". I recently saw one like it at the shop of a member of my turning club and it's magnificent. Go get it before I try to ship it across the country! Doug

[Phillip Gregory]

There is a 1970's 20" Powermatic bandsaw in Colorado on eBay that isn't getting the love it deserves. It has the extra resaw option and will go to about 20". I recently saw one like it at the shop of a member of my turning club and it's magnificent. Go get it before I try to ship it across the country! Doug

You can go get that one. If I went to Colorado to get a bandsaw, I'd have to get a new wife. That is a much taller order than getting a new bandsaw!

[Phillip Gregory]

I went to Grizzly's showroom in Springfield today and took a look at their bandsaws. A G0513X2 followed me back home up I-44. I looked at it and the G0514X2 but couldn't really see what the extra $500 would really get me. The G0514X2 was a little heavier, had a little more power, a fancier table tilt wheel (I don't really intend to tilt the table), and slightly larger wheels. Resaw capacity was the same and the saws looked otherwise identical. The G0514X2 cost 50% more, so the G0513X2 was the one I took home. I gathered as much with reading the "G0513X2 vs. G0514X2" threads on here as well, but I had to see them in person. I got a 3/8" 10TPI raker blade and a 1" 3 TPI resaw blade as well. We'll see how it turns out when the steel hits the oak.

[Phillip Gregory]

I got the saw set up and ran a few of the old rafters through it.

- The thing that took me the most time was getting the saw on the mobile base. You'll need to have the caster supports along the short edge of the saw, else the bottom door will hit the caster support after it is open about an inch. You will also need to swap two of the shorter M6x15 bolts for the casters for the M6x25 bolts that anchor the side rail in front of the door as well, otherwise the door will open about three inches and hit those bolts. The shorter bolts still hold the side rail just fine but they are *just* short enough so the door will clear it.

- I put a much longer cord on the saw as Grizzly only included about six feet of plug-less cord with the saw. The lack of a plug is noted in the manual and it is apparently done because a bunch of owners will try to run the saw on 120 V instead of 240 V. Apparently it's less than half as the motor is wired for 240 V out of the box and it comes with a 14/3 cord, and you'd have to replace that with a 12/3 cord to use 120 V. I used a longer 14/3 cord with a 6-15 plug because I wanted a cord longer than six feet so I could actually plug it directly into a receptacle. It is simple to replace, you will just need a set of crimp-on terminal ends and a suitable plug. You lose about three feet of cord length in going through the access plate in the bottom of the arm up to the switch.

- The rest of the saw setup was trivial. The only greasy part was the table which was absolutely caked in Cosmoline, and that and the fence were the only things that had to be assembled. The tracking and coplanarity were correct and the fence was square to the miter slot and blade out of the box. The guide post was square to the table as well. All I had to do was shim the rear bolts on the trunnion a fuzz to bring the back of the table up to be square to the blade forwards and backwards and of course adjust the blade guides.

- This saw had no trouble tensioning the 1" x 0.035" 2 TPI carbon steel hook blade I got. I tensioned it using the flutter method and at the end, the pointer was a little beyond the edge of the scale. The spring was nowhere near bottomed out. The tension adjusting handwheel did start to get a little tougher to turn at the very end so I am guessing I was probably getting close to maximum tension.

- The quality of cut was better than I expected. It was about what you'd expect from a very mediocre 24 tooth tablesaw blade. I did feed it pretty slowly, probably about 12-18" a minute as many here had recommended. The saw had zero trouble in keeping up and there was no discernable drift or barreling. I cut a short segment of another piece at about twice the feed speed and it was much rougher and the blade would lead by about 1/16".

- Dust collection is very mediocre.