dining room table

[Richard Carner]

I've had stashed away 20 years and more two 5/4 old growth flame birch boards. One is 20.5" wide the other 15". The space will allow for a table @64"x36". I'll add breadboards to the top. I hate to rip that 20.5 in half... but what I'm thinking is that I'd like a three board top. So if I rip the 20.5" down to 15" and glue them up such that the two 15's are on the outside and then what's left from the 20.5" is sandwiched in the middle that would be the way to go. So I'd like to hear some feedback about that. Secondly, I'd like some advice about the skirt. I am going to make a two-way taper leg. The leg-skirt combo with be finished with milk paint. That said, how much overhang should I allow for the ends and sides of the top? I know that if it was a stretcher type tavern table that the overhang would be around 14" on the ends and @5.5" on the sides. But of course this isn't going to be a stretcher table. Thanks.

[Brian Tymchak]

If the boards are close in color and figure, I think it might look best if the 3 boards in the top are closer to being the same width. My first thought is to maybe rip the 20" board into 2 10" boards and sandwhich the 15" board in the middle.

Regarding the overhang, with the top being 1" thick ( finished ), I think just a couple inches is about right. Maybe 3".

[Jamie Buxton]

...That said, how much overhang should I allow for the ends and sides of the top? I know that if it was a stretcher type tavern table that the overhang would be around 14" on the ends and @5.5" on the sides. But of course this isn't going to be a stretcher table. ..

So what kind of table is it going to be?

[Richard Carner]

If the boards are close in color and figure, I think it might look best if the 3 boards in the top are closer to being the same width. My first thought is to maybe rip the 20" board into 2 10" boards and sandwhich the 15" board in the middle.

Regarding the overhang, with the top being 1" thick ( finished ), I think just a couple inches is about right. Maybe 3".

I am visualizing that - the 15 sandwiched between two 10's. It might make the table 'look' like it is a bit wider than otherwise. Thanks. I'll think on it. So you think a 3" overhang all sides is from leg out is about right?

[Richard Carner]

So what kind of table is it going to be?

Best way I might describe the build is a hybrid tavern table with Hepplewhite style legs (tapered two ways) The breadboards may or may not be made out of the flame birch. (I don't want to get too carried away) Any suggestions about mixing the woods would be appreciated. I'm thinking that I'll insert some square 1/4x1/4 Cape Ebony pegs through the breadboard and into the tenons on the top. Was I to do that, my inclination would be to make the breadboards out of flame birch too. As a way of giving a nod to the Colonial period, I thought it might be nice to use milk paint on the skirt and legs. Color yet to be determined. Any feedback is welcomed. I've already rough dimensioned the skirt and legs out of popular.

[Brian Tymchak]

I am visualizing that - the 15 sandwiched between two 10's. It might make the table 'look' like it is a bit wider than otherwise. Thanks. I'll think on it. So you think a 3" overhang all sides is from leg out is about right?

I'm no designer of any distinction, but I like the dimensions of the Amish-built dining table we bought several years ago. It has ~2" overhang over the apron, all around the table. It's a split round with leaves, about 60"x40".

This is one of those things where if you can cobble the project together in SketchUp, you could decide what proportions you like to see. Or maybe you can cut some cardboard pieces to give you a sense of the proportions. One factor on the overhang might be how wide the aprons are that you want. I can imagine that wider aprons probably would look better with a wider overhang.

[Prashun Patel]

First, this is purely a subjective discussion. You gotta find yr own truth.

Mine: Lay out the boards based on the grain, not the width.

If the grain is similar enough that you have flexibility with the widths, then I might even rip the 20 incher down to 12, and similarly with 15's. There's a temptation to fall in love with the width, but on wide boards like that, you may end up with a combination of flat and qs grain which doesn't leave good options for matching other neighbors.

Use the off cuts for breadboards or other projects. Your eye won't be able to tell if there's a small difference, so you can even go 11, 11, and 14 if that leaves you with interesting matches and more options for the offcuts.

I'm in the middle of a slab table build. As tempting as it is to preserve width, it has to fit the aesthetic. I'd rather have observers say 'beautiful table' than 'beautiful board'.

[Andrew Hughes]

I don't see why you would want to break up a wide board and pair it with a differant board to make up the same top.Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.
Prashun makes a good point gluing up plainsawn or flat grain to rift or quartered,Seems just wrong it like gluing the out side of the tree to the inside.I know a lot of woodworkers do it,It's seems to go against nature.And I'm too superstitious I guess.
Dont forget to leave them long when you glue them back helps to match the lines back up.Aj

[Richard Carner]

First, this is purely a subjective discussion. You gotta find yr own truth.

Mine: Lay out the boards based on the grain, not the width.

If the grain is similar enough that you have flexibility with the widths, then I might even rip the 20 incher down to 12, and similarly with 15's. There's a temptation to fall in love with the width, but on wide boards like that, you may end up with a combination of flat and qs grain which doesn't leave good options for matching other neighbors.

Use the off cuts for breadboards or other projects. Your eye won't be able to tell if there's a small difference, so you can even go 11, 11, and 14 if that leaves you with interesting matches and more options for the offcuts.

I'm in the middle of a slab table build. As tempting as it is to preserve width, it has to fit the aesthetic. I'd rather have observers say 'beautiful table' than 'beautiful board'.

Ha-ha. I like you comment: 'beautiful table than beautiful board'. You make a good point. And you are right: I have to find my own truth. I like that as well. In any event, I have decide to rip the 20 into two pieces and sandwich the 15. I worked with Flame birch before. If you go to my web site - richardcarnerdotcom, there is a tab at the top called 'Chronicles' One the chronicles is titled: 'The story behind a commissioned piece two years in the making'. I used a drop off one of the flame birch board. I would argue that the grain similarity takes a distant second spot to the intense figure. My point is that I don't think I have to be two preoccupied with grain orientation. Thanks for your comments.

[Richard Carner]

I don't see why you would want to break up a wide board and pair it with a differant board to make up the same top.Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.
Prashun makes a good point gluing up plainsawn or flat grain to rift or quartered,Seems just wrong it like gluing the out side of the tree to the inside.I know a lot of woodworkers do it,It's seems to go against nature.And I'm too superstitious I guess.
Dont forget to leave them long when you glue them back helps to match the lines back up.Aj

Please refer to my response to Prashun.

[Richard Carner]

I'm no designer of any distinction, but I like the dimensions of the Amish-built dining table we bought several years ago. It has ~2" overhang over the apron, all around the table. It's a split round with leaves, about 60"x40".

This is one of those things where if you can cobble the project together in SketchUp, you could decide what proportions you like to see. Or maybe you can cut some cardboard pieces to give you a sense of the proportions. One factor on the overhang might be how wide the aprons are that you want. I can imagine that wider aprons probably would look better with a wider overhang.

Aprons are generally 4" wide and between 3/4 & 7/8 thick. I'm using poplar for the aprons. The plan is to apply milk paint to the aprons and legs. I live in the heart of Amish country (Lancaster, PA). Are you sure you are referencing the Amish or is this a Shaker table? The Amish at least around here (31,000+) are not known for furniture building except for things like picnic tables, etc. I'd love to see an image of your table. I'm planning on a 3" overhang. Thanks for your advice about doing some sketches, etc. I plan on getting a piece of plywood and dimension it to the size of the table top that I have in mind first. Because of space limitations, I'm leaning heavily on a 35 x 64 top.