Preferred Handsaw for wide cross cuts

[Joe A Faulkner]

What saw do you prefer for making wide cross cuts? I was helping my son on his 4H project today, and he needed to notch the end of a shelf. This particular shelf was only 7" wide, and he only needed a 5 1/2 inch wide x 3/8" notch on each end. I think a half-back saw would have been a nice option for this, he wound up doing most of the cut on the table saw, and finished the job with a coping saw. This was doable in this case, but it got me thinking, what saw, in a well stocked till would one turn to for this operation? Suppose you were cross cutting a 24"-30" wide panel to serve as a table or dresser top and you were doing this by hand, what saw would you turn to?

[Eric Brown]

I prefer to use a crosscut handsaw, either regular or panel, for wide cross cuts. I try to clamp a straight board across the board to be cut to act as a guide. Others just do it freehand with the saw. I follow these cuts with a handplane to smooth things out. It really is not complicated. Don't over think it. Have fun. Eric

[Jim Matthews]

I've got a 25" long Orsa 8 TPI crosscut saw that I use for this.

If I want it fine, I'll score the cut line an use a chisel
to make a 'ledge' for a finer saw on the order of 14 TPI.

[Winton Applegate]

I like this'n here
you know me, I like coarser teeth saws though
not the best for jewelry box work but not bad if you hold your tongue just right :p

[Stew Denton]

Hi Winston,

If you are using that sort of a saw for jewelry box work, it helps to have three guys. That way if one guy gets tired before the first cut is completed the third guy can spell him for a little bit.

stew

[Winton Applegate]

third guy can spell him for a little bit.
Hey thanks.
That should get production up.

[Winton Applegate]

OK so I ought to get a little serious here.
You have two questions: one about the narrow board and one about the wider table top like panel

For cross cutting a table top to length it is tricky because of splintering on the under side. One knifes the line but if the panel is hard and thick . . . well . . .
the flesh is weak . . .
and the power tools oh so close to hand.
I actually have quite a fondness for my prize circular saws. Say what you will about Festool I love my old school super tunable Dewalt (http://www.benchtopwoodworkingtools.com/dewalt-dw384-dwe575-circular-saw/) and mini PorterCable worm drive (for plywood) see photo.

After cutting the ends off the table I used the LN BU jack shown, but, on the end grain with the table vertical against the side of the work bench while standing on the work bench . . . oooohhh glassy smooth. I guess those LN BU jacks work preeeeeety good.

For the narrower board heck you could use any old hand saw even a rip saw. Knife it and chisel to the lines.
A Japanese saw would be cool. One of these guys (see last photo). The cross cut teeth are facing each other. The second side of teeth on the one saw are rip.

[Richard Hutchings]

I love the shot of the end grain after planing. Outstanding.


OK so I ought to get a little serious here.
You have two questions: one about the narrow board and one about the wider table top like panel

For cross cutting a table top to length it is tricky because of splintering on the under side. One knifes the line but if the panel is hard and thick . . . well . . .
the flesh is weak . . .
and the power tools oh so close to hand.
I actually have quite a fondness for my prize circular saws. Say what you will about Festool I love my old school super tunable Dewalt (http://www.benchtopwoodworkingtools.com/dewalt-dw384-dwe575-circular-saw/) and mini PorterCable worm drive (for plywood) see photo.

After cutting the ends off the table I used the LN BU jack shown, but, on the end grain with the table vertical against the side of the work bench while standing on the work bench . . . oooohhh glassy smooth. I guess those LN BU jacks work preeeeeety good.

For the narrower board heck you could use any old hand saw even a rip saw. Knife it and chisel to the lines.
A Japanese saw would be cool. One of these guys (see last photo). The cross cut teeth are facing each other. The second side of teeth on the one saw are rip.

[steven c newman]

Used a Disston type of saw to cut the aprons for that little table I just finished
309682
In the case, a Disston "National Hardware Special" about 1954. Not too bad of a cut
309683
And, this is the cut-off end. Clamped the two drawer sides into the vise
309684
Just to remove any saw marks. Came out...ok
309685
not too bad. I had followed the pencil lines around with a utility knife. Then made the cuts. The plane is the only low angle item in the shop BTW.

[Winton Applegate]

Richard,

I love the shot of the end grain after planing. Outstanding.
Thanks
I wish I could take the credit for doing something clever but all I did was read, apply good techniques and great tools.
standing on the shoulders of great people and all that.
I suppose what I bring to it is my surprise that even I can make it work and my enthusiasm to run around in circles sharing my glee.

[Winton Applegate]

Steve,
Nice going. Are you left handed by the way?
As far as planing both at once I would have drove myself nuts getting the sides to line up or I would have planed one out of square. I would probably had to plane one at a time for best results.

[steven c newman]

Right handed. Just the way the bench was setup.

I clamp them a little loose in the vise, align the sides, and then clamp them down. Wanted them to match each other, makes doing a drawer a we bit easier...besides, more surface for the plane to register on.