Matching Stain Color

[Jerry Solomon]

I am building a small table from QSWO. Unfortunately, I obtained the lumber from two different suppliers. In an effort to avoid gluing up two boards to make the 1-3/8" square legs, I bought a piece of 8/4 white oak (not QS) locally. When I started staining (Minwax special walnut) the pieces before assembly, the legs are not taking the stain color nearly a dark as the other pieces. So far I've tried additional coats of the stain on the legs and it's helping a little but not enough.

Is it possible to use a dye on top of the stained surface?
Any other ideas how to darken the legs?

Thanks,

Jerry
Slidell, LA

[Jim Becker]

Try a second coat of your stain on some scrap to see if you get closer to what you want. You can also use dye directly or in shellac as a toner to further adjust color. Just remember to do it on scrap first and compare the results WITH a coat or two of your final clear finish applied as your color will change dramatically with the clear finish in place.

[John Branam]

You may want to look at glazes also. You can get titnted glazes to match most colors or mix your own from a sampler kit of several colors. You will need a top coat of laquer or poly to seal them. I get mine localy from Cincinnati color, I am sure other places like a Sherwin Williams would have them. I just remembered this place also touchupdepot.com they sell them there under brushing glazes product sku kt100.

[Dennis Peacock]

Jerry,

One thing I have found in staining and color matching is that it's sometimes necessary to adjust your sanding schedule on the different wood. If it's too light, then go to the next coarse grit and sand with that and try your color again. Example would be, final sanding was at 220 grit, then back down to 180 grit and maybe even sand with the staing applied to the surface. I've done the sanding with the stain on it and got so close that it was difficult to tell any difference.

Experimentation is the key to success in finishing. DAMHIKT!!!

[Hal Flynt]

You may get a water based dye to take better if you wipe down the MinWax with some mineral spirits first. Also sanding will help.

I try to dye first to get all the wood looking very close , then stain. The same species of wood from the same lot can vary more than enough to notice.

Glazes and toners will work faster, BUT practice on a stained cutoff until you get what you want.

And yes "experience is one of your better teachers".

[Jerry Solomon]

Jim, John, Dennis, Hal -

Thanks for the advice. One of my problems is that I live in a small town and anything "out-of-the-ordinary" that I buy usually has to be obtained through the mail. It makes it hard to try things. We have a couple of the name-brand paint stores (i.e. Sherwin-Williams) but they normally don't sell glazes, dyes, or much of anything except interior/exterior paint. I've tried tinted varnish before (Minwax Polyshades) but I was VERY unhappy with how that looked. I'll keep experimenting!!. Thanks again.

Jerry