Titebond II Extend vs. DAP 00203 Plastic Resin Glue

[Al Launier]

I'm approaching glue-up time for a couple of "stretch octagonal jewelry boxes I'm making & am getting a bit nervous about the open time I'll need to apply glue & clamp the pieces together correctly. I expect it could take me about 15 minutes (???) by the time everythig is clamped. I just picked up a bottle of Titebond II Extend thinking that would give me enough opeen time. Yet, lately I've been reading about the DAP 00203 Plastic Resin Glue & wonder if that would be a better choice for this application.

I don't have any problems with the clamping time, just want enough time to set & clamp the pieces together. I plan on using a strap around the top of the sides & a rope that fits the molded contours around the bottom of the sides, twisting each with a stick to tighten the joints up as that seems to be the option so far that I've tested.

Any preference for either of these glues, I have only one shot at this?

Thanks for your comments.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I expect it could take me about 15 minutes (???) by the time everythig is clamped

Don't' guess, time your assembly time based on your dry-fit. Go through a complete dry-fit two or three times. Be sure every thing fits properly and that you have all your supplies set out and handy, You can probably reduce your assembly time by 25-50% with practice.

Don't apply any glue until you are satisfied that you can get it assembled in time.

[John TenEyck]

I typically reach for a bottle of liquid hide glue when I have something that requires more than 5 - 10 minutes to put together. It has a very long open time, and for indoor projects it works fine.

John

[John Vernier]

I agree about liquid hide glue. Another benefit is that clean up is so easy, even after the glue is dry, that overspill is one less thing to worry about during a complex glue up.

[Chris Padilla]

Al,

Just glue up half of it but pretend like you are gluing up the whole thing...then do the other half tomorrow.

[Larry Edgerton]

3/8" latex tubing available at most old school hardware stores is a big help. I just bought some at $1.59 a foot so its not terrible expensive. It really helps to hold things in place while yo make the final adjustments, and can be used alone as a clamp as well.

[Judson Green]

Al,

Just glue up half of it but pretend like you are gluing up the whole thing...then do the other half tomorrow.

Yeah to what Chris said.

Then you could use the glue you have in your shop already.

[Al Launier]

Tried to set this up as a partial glue-up, but with 8 pieces (octagonal shape of 3 different lengths) I couldn't clamp it properly to the correct alignments - no form/structure to use to stage it.
I tried rubber straps & a bungee cord but couldn't get them tight enough even the miter joints are perfect as they tended to relax after tying/clamping off. My best bet so far is a 1" strap along the top & 3/8" rope along the bottom both twisted with a short dowel to tighten things up. I'll probably make some wedges & insert between the sides & strap or rope to tighten the joints more where needed.

As Howard suggested I have things pre-staged & I've done a couple of trial runs & may be able to get it down to 10+ minutes - I'm going with Titebond II Extend.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

PS I'm going to get some 3/8" tubing as Larry suggested - thanks for the idea - should be better than the rubber strap & bungee cord I have!


Al,

Just glue up half of it but pretend like you are gluing up the whole thing...then do the other half tomorrow.

[Jerry Thompson]

+1 on liquid hide glue.

[peter gagliardi]

I use the plastic resin glue extensively for long glue ups. It is ideal, but messy if not careful. Curved stair stringers and handrails can definitely eat up some time before clamped up on the form. If you need more time, you can even spread a little heavier. The can says 15 minutes, but if it's 60-70 degrees, you can get away with double that if need be.

[Stew Hagerty]

I have liquid hide glue (I also have the good stuff that cool up for hammer veneering) and it's ok. I don't think it is nearly as strong as TiteBond. The TiteBond II Extend is my go to glue. I use it for most everything. Its work time is long enough without overdoing it, which is something Hide Glue does. For me, Hide Glue takes just too darn long to set-up.
Just my personal experience and opinion of course.

[Andrew Hughes]

If the plastic resin glue is the brown powder stuff I wouldn't use it for miters,It's too thick and will leave a tan glue line,You didn't mention what wood your glueing,soo if it's maple its gonna show in the miters.
Plus it will be difficult to squeeze it out of the joint.
I like plain old white glue thinned down or old brown glue.The old brown glue is reversible so if you get in trouble a do over is there for Ya.Good luck Aj

[Max Neu]

i use titebond extend quite a bit, but I think titebond 3 has a longer open time than extend does.

[Al Launier]

Good input from everyone - glad I posted this - confidence restored with a game plan - hate to screw up a lengthy project at glue-up!
Thanks to all!

[Chris Padilla]

Are you using any floating tenons in the miters by chance? Sometimes adding a spline, dowel, biscuit, domino, etc. can help aid alignments or hold things together while gluing (especially if gluing in stages).