What are the best contractor / hybrid saws in the $500 - $1K range? [Archive]

Josh Saul

03-18-2015, 12:56 AM

For weeks now I've been trying to rehab my Grandfather's old Craftsman 113, and I've finally reached the point where I have to admit to myself that the time and money it will take to fix the badly worn innards just won't be worth it. Trust me, I've weighed my options carefully and done everything I can. It's time to say goodbye.

This means that I'm now in the market for a new, decent contractor or hybrid-type saw. And for the sake of this discussion, let's focus on new saws. With the obvious caveats about how you get what you pay for, I'm hoping you can point me towards the sweet spot, and I understand that this means compromises. I just want to make some decent, simple furniture out of hardwoods. Here are some priorities, in rough order:

1.Budget. $1K is the TOP of my budget. Lower is better. Much better. Sorry, this is where I'm at. I'm a hobbyist at best, not a pro or anywhere close to it.
2. Enough precision to make some decent furniture. Tables and such.
3. Power. Currently, my shop is only wired up for normal 120, and keeping it that way is preferable for now, but not required. But I don't want to be constantly struggling to rip through 4/4 or 5/4 oak, and I need the ability to handle a dado.
5. Portability. This is last for a reason. I don't need to be able to move it across town, but I do need to be able to move it across my shop.

One last consideration. I already have an unused, uninstalled Delta T2 Fence sitting here from my failed 113 project. So, if there's a new saw out there that can do all this for a good price, but the fence is weak, that might be perfect for me. So fire away.

Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it.

Mort Stevens

03-18-2015, 3:27 AM

I don't follow these things too closely, but unless things have changed drastically in the past year or so, there are only two hybrid saws that stand our from the others, one is a Craftsman the other is made by Powermatic. What makes them stand out is the way they mount the motor/arbor to the cabinet like you would find on a "professional" cabinet saw. The others hang the motor off the table. The reason this is important has to do with blade alignment, accuracy and rigidity. Somebody else can probably explain it better. I replaced an old Rockwell cabinet saw with a Powermatic hybrid and have had it for over a year now and am very happy with it; plenty of power and has stayed accurate since initial setup.

Chuck Hart

03-18-2015, 4:09 AM

I saw a contractors saw at Lowes made by Delta. I know Delta is on everybody's complaint list for their failure in the after market parts market, but the reason they have that problem is there are a lot of happy Delta owners.

On to the saw. I have a Craftsman and it is built well but the fence set up sucks. This new Delta had a stable fence and scale. It has the one step riving knife removal and an easy to use blade guard. The thing I liked about it was the stand was STURDY and had a well located dust port. It has all the things you would expect in a good contractors saw. Look it up at Lowes. I also noticed it was in the new mailer Delta put out about 2 weeks ago. I have heard it run and it is fairly quiet. I have NOT used the saw. It was $599 That's all I have.

Mike Cozad

03-18-2015, 4:36 AM

I've been pleased with my steel city saw. The trunions are cabinet mounted. The granite top now comes with metal miter slots to eliminate the chance of chipping/cracking the granite. I've not had it happen to mine so not a worry for me. Many different models to choose from at your price point. Wood werks still has their 25% off an $49 shipping sale going on now too. With the sale you can get a full-on cabinet saw with mobile base for your budget... And if you're outside Ohio, no sales tax to make it easier on your budget.
http://www.woodwerks.com/brand/steel-city/table-saws.html

scott spencer

03-18-2015, 7:32 AM

Full size hybrid style contractor saws start in the $500-$600 range, and include the Delta 36-725 that's getting very good initial reports, and the Ridgid R4512 and nearly identical Craftsman 21833 that have both been plagued with some sporadic alignment issues....check for that early if you pursue one.

For more money, Grizzly has two offerings...the G0715P and the newer G0771. The G0715P has a similar table mounted trunnion system as the R4512/21833, as well as the same alignment issues. The G0771 offers cabinet mounted trunnions, a full enclosure, solid cast wings, and an average aluminum fence for ~ $675 plus $99 shipping if you can't pick it up...that one might be a good choice for you because you already have a fence upgrade....that saw with your T2 fence could make for a pretty darn nice setup. Sell the stock fence and buy a mobile base and/or better blade(s).

https://d27ewrs9ow50op.cloudfront.net/pics/jpeg500/g/g0771.jpg

Steel City has, or at least had the 35990 with cabinet mounted trunnions came with steel, cast iron, or granite top/wings at varying prices through HD and Lowes....I think SC has new offerings though, so I'm not sure if the 35990 is still available. The Cman 22116 is made by Steel City/Orion, has a granite top, cabinet mounted trunnions, decent Biese clone fence, and a full enclosure....it retails near the top of your price range, but sale prices can make it attractive.

Just about all the other hybrids I know of cost more...PM64B, PM1000, Jet Proshop, Laguna Fusion, Baleigh, Rikon, GI 50-200R. The end cutting ability for any of them is largely setup and blade dependent....all have 1.5 to 2hp motors....obviously 2hp should have somewhat more power depending on a few variables.

Mike Heidrick

03-18-2015, 8:05 AM

The Lowes saw I touched had a junk fence and stamped tables and was flimsy. Id go 1023 grizzly or equiv before that. a cabinet saw can take no more room than a hybrid and on a mobile base is portable. You have a 240v circuit you can use?

Jim Dwight

03-18-2015, 8:18 AM

The Rigid R4512 is around $600 and thus well within your budget. It's drawback has been that the angle of the blade to the top changed as the blade moved up and down. The height/angle adjust mechanism attaches to the top as has been noted above and this has been blamed. Cabinet mounted adjustment mechanism is how "real" table saws do it and is preferable. I've been following the issue with the R4512 and the recent reports are that Rigid has resolved the issue with their mechanism. There is a new casting used in the most recent saws that results in a blade going up and down without the angle changing (according to user reports). You might want to Google the saw and issue and see what you think. Other than this issue, reviews I've seen are favorable. It's available at Home Depot so it isn't hard to find. It has a movable base included in the price. Even on the older saws, some apparently work well. There is also at least one U-tube where an owner claims to have found a way to fix the issue.

I've always used a table saw on 120V. I've been making sawdust for about 40 years. I've built 5 or 6 full bedroom sets plus lots of other pieces. I have ripped over 3 inches deep in hardwood with my saws. I do it whenever I need to. The only "secret" is to make sure the blade is clean and sharp. A ripping blade really helps. I do not find that the kerf of the blade makes a big difference. I use full width blades but also have some thin kerf. Being clean and sharp is definitely more important.

My current saw is a Ryobi BT3100. It is no longer available new. The Craftsman version on the rolling stand may be. I bought mine new for about $300. It will do precision work and the fence is actually pretty good. But it has a really small top and no slots for a miter gauge. So it's kind of a quirky little saw. It looks somewhat like a jobsite saw - something you can throw into the back of a pickup. I look at the Rigid as a possible upgrade at some point. But since I started using a track saw, I see less need for a "better" table saw. The track saw does all wide rips and produces results that do not need trimmed with the table saw. When I get my MFT workbench set up, it will do wider crosscuts too. That leaves the table saw doing narrow rips and joints.

Paul Wunder

03-18-2015, 8:46 AM

"I've been pleased with my steel city saw. The trunions are cabinet mounted. The granite top now comes with metal miter slots to eliminate the chance of chipping/cracking the granite. I've not had it happen to mine so not a worry for me. Many different models to choose from at your price point. Wood werks still has their 25% off an $49 shipping sale going on now too. With the sale you can get a full-on cabinet saw with mobile base for your budget... And if you're outside Ohio, no sales tax to make it easier on your budget.
http://www.woodwerks.com/brand/steel...able-saws.html (http://www.woodwerks.com/brand/steel-city/table-saws.html)"

I would also recommend the Steel City hybrid. i have owned the Sears Craftsman version (zipcode 22124) for over 5 years without a hiccup. After the original setup i have not needed to make any adjustments. With a decent thin kerf blade it will handle your needs. I am currently doing a lot of machining of 1 1/2" black walnut and the cuts are smooth and the saw does not appear to under load

David Pettinger

03-18-2015, 7:44 PM

I own a Craftsman 21833, picked it up 6 months ago for $499.00. Things a beast at just under 300lbs. Good set of casters, nice flat cast iron top. Good fence system, but like you had a Shop Fox from my previous saw. Sooo, I switched it out. Overall, she runs quiet, cuts well, no problem with the factory set on the trunnions. Just take your time during setup though and follow the instructions. I spread this saws materials completely out on 2 sheets of plywood, then grouped them according to the assembly steps. Whole thing took 2 days to put together, then finding enough horsepower to turn it over once assembled. But hey, it's just my 2 cents worth.

Myk Rian

03-18-2015, 8:33 PM

I've been pleased with my steel city saw.
I have one of the original Steel City Hybrids. I love it.

Kevin Neal

03-18-2015, 10:18 PM

I have the new Grizzly G0771 hybrid with the cabinet mounted trunions. It was very easy to adjust the blade to be parallel to the miter slot. I've mostly used it for cutting plywood so far, but I have ripped some 4/4 red oak. It zipped right through without slowing down.

It does have an aluminum fence, which I was somewhat worried about when I ordered the saw. I have to say that it performs much better than I was expecting. It locks solidly in place and seems to be very accurate. One advantage is the it has t-slots built in to all faces so it's easy to add accessories/jigs to the fence without drilling.

For the price, especially with the introductory sale, I think it was a great value and a big step up from my grandfathers old Craftsman that I had inherited.

Josh Saul

03-19-2015, 1:09 AM

scott spencer

03-19-2015, 6:26 AM

I'm happy to say that I'm very pleasantly surprised with the options that are available in my price range. Thanks so much for your help. It looks like it's between the Grizzly G0771 and the Steel City saw. The Grizzly is slightly more expensive when factoring in shipping and the mobile base, but does it offer any real advantages to the Steel City, or vice versa? Like, how is the fence on the Steel City? I do notice that the Grizzly appears to be about 100lbs lighter than the Steel City, which could be a plus whenever I have to move it - but then again, that reduced weight probably comes from the aluminum fence system. I have to say, the Grizzly with the Delta fence is looking mighty appealing. Anyone have any additional insights for me?

I'm not overly familiar with either saw, but both look to be decent choices to me. From a glance, the Steel City fence looks to be roughly comparable to your T2 in design (a Biese Lite) ....beefier than the G0771 fence, but it looks like the front rail is two pieces (worth checking into), which would put it a step behind your T2 fence. The SC has a built in mobile base, but has an open enclosure with legs vs fully enclosed. The motor on the G0771 is rated at 15 amps, while the SC motor is rated at 13 amps. I'm not loving my first impression of what I can see of the SC throat insert. Since both are left tilt saws, you should be able to extend the rip capacity to the right if you ever want to....note that it could be harder to do with a split rail.

Myk Rian

03-19-2015, 10:03 AM

My SC has a Bies style fence. Very sturdy.

309473

John Sanford

03-19-2015, 1:00 PM

I would recommend the SawStop Contractor's Saw, but even buying it without a fence will put you about $300 over your budget. (Yes, you can buy the SawStop ICS, PCS and CS w/o fences. I doubt if you can get the Jobsite w/o a fence.)

Dave Haughs

03-19-2015, 3:02 PM

You'll get a lot of opinions here I am sure. If you can find a General International 50-185 used somewhere in good shape snatch it up. Great contractor saw. I had one I bought used for several years before I bought my SawStop and gave it to my dad. It's still in use today and very precise.

I think I've seen that saw highly coveted on this forum and others. 2hp that can be wired for 110 or 220 volt operation.

My 2 cents.

scott spencer

03-21-2015, 5:18 PM

Any progress on your decision Josh?

Jacob Reverb

03-22-2015, 8:13 AM

Powermatic 64A is a nice contractor's saw. I've been real happy with mine...

Scott Cenicola

03-29-2015, 3:52 PM

Any progress on your decision Josh?

Yes, I am interested as well. I'm about to purchase the Grizzly g0771, and I am interested in hearing what you decided. The fence does look a little weak, but I have a beis on my current saw that I think I could retro fit. Looking for more opinions on the g0771, as well as the ability to retro fit a beis fence.

Josh Saul

04-23-2015, 12:43 PM

After a few weeks, I'm still very much on the fence about what to buy. I've been set on the Grizzly 0771 for a while, but to be very honest, the shipping just seems extremely annoying. Any time I've ever had something delivered via freight, it's been a huge hassle. And there's no way to know if the driver who shows up will be helpful, or the type who resents the fact that he even had to get out of the truck. Paying an extra $130 dollars for this "service" (including the "liftgate" upcharge, which as far as I can tell guarantees you nothing as far as getting your saw any further than the curb goes) is a borderline deal breaker for me. Which is a shame, because the Grizz looks like a lot of saw for the money, with the 1.5 hp motor, cabinet mounted trunnions and cast iron wings. But then I keep thinking, maybe it only looks like "a lot of saw for the money" because what amounts to $130 hidden cost. Sorry, I like "all in" pricing with my consumer goods.

In the past couple of days, I've started to look hard at the Delta options that I can get at Lowe's - the 36-725 and the 36-5000. I know there's a lot of Delta hate here, but the 725 in particular has been very well reviewed by lots of people in a lot of woodworking corners of the web. There's the split on the fence rail on the 725, but I actually have an uninstalled T3 fence system sitting around, so I could use the solid rail from that. What I really worry about with the Delta models is power. I want to be able to reliably rip 5/4 hardwood (to make something like, say, a dining room table) without it being a struggle for the saw. I don't want to be constantly working at the edges of the saw's limitations.

Also, I'm seeing that Amazon sells the Grizzly GO715P, and I happen to be a Prime member. I've had good luck with big purchases like this from Amazon (even the ones delivered freight, for the most part).

So, where do you guys come down on these options?

Grant Wilkinson

04-23-2015, 12:58 PM

You can rule out a new Steel City. The company is done.

Dave Haughs

04-23-2015, 2:01 PM

I too have had good luck with Amazon Prime and freight. In fact I love ordering large items from Amazon to get the most out of my prime membership :)

Josh Saul

04-23-2015, 2:09 PM

Can anyone speak to the power I can expect to get from either of these Delta saws?

Cary Falk

04-23-2015, 3:03 PM

I wouldn't pay extra to have Amazon get their hands in it. The long distance shipper is not always the local deliver so it could be that the same local guy that is delivering from Amazon is the same as Grizzly. If the delivery is bothering you that much drive down to the warehouse and have them load it in your truck and unload it yourself. I have unloaded many machines much heavier than a hybrid saw myself. They just came out 100 lbs at a time. Don't settle for a lesser saw because of shipping.

Bill ThompsonNM

04-23-2015, 3:34 PM

After a few weeks, I'm still very much on the fence about what to buy. I've been set on the Grizzly 0771 for a while, but to be very honest, the shipping just seems extremely annoying. Any time I've ever had something delivered via freight, it's been a huge hassle. And there's no way to know if the driver who shows up will be helpful, or the type who resents the fact that he even had to get out of the truck. Paying an extra $130 dollars for this "service" (including the "liftgate" upcharge, which as far as I can tell guarantees you nothing as far as getting your saw any further than the curb goes) is a borderline deal breaker for me. Which is a shame, because the Grizz looks like a lot of saw for the money, with the 1.5 hp motor, cabinet mounted trunnions and cast iron wings. But then I keep thinking, maybe it only looks like "a lot of saw for the money" because what amounts to $130 hidden cost. Sorry, I like "all in" pricing with my consumer goods. In the past couple of days, I've started to look hard at the Delta options that I can get at Lowe's - the 36-725 and the 36-5000. I know there's a lot of Delta hate here, but the 725 in particular has been very well reviewed by lots of people in a lot of woodworking corners of the web. There's the split on the fence rail on the 725, but I actually have an uninstalled T3 fence system sitting around, so I could use the solid rail from that. What I really worry about with the Delta models is power. I want to be able to reliably rip 5/4 hardwood (to make something like, say, a dining room table) without it being a struggle for the saw. I don't want to be constantly working at the edges of the saw's limitations. Also, I'm seeing that Amazon sells the Grizzly GO715P, and I happen to be a Prime member. I've had good luck with big purchases like this from Amazon (even the ones delivered freight, for the most part). So, where do you guys come down on these options?
It seems to me you are more of a buy it from a brick and mortar shop person, then no hassles with freight, etc. do you have any woodworking shops within driving range? Rockler, Woodcraft, others? Might be nice to kick the tires before you buy. You might be able to try Shop Fox, Jet, General Internationnal... Some of the Craftsman might also be an option.

Prashun Patel

04-23-2015, 3:35 PM

Josh-
If it were me, I'd get the Grizzly. 1) It's on sale now, so you'll save $50. 2) When I have a budget that is hard fixed - as is yours - it's really hard to beat Grizzly for big tool bang for that fixed buck. Their table saws and bandsaws are perfectly respectable. Ironically, despite their lower price point, I actually find their support on par with the higher priced tool manufacturers. And I would not put Delta in there, sadly. I have a Delta lathe that was the best thing since sliced bread 5 years ago, but now it's hard to find parts or answers to some questions when I've had little failures. Personally, I find Grizzly takes reasonable pride in their big products.

For a hybrid saw drawing < 2hp on 110v then expect that you'll be able to rip 2-2.5" on all but the hardest woods, provided you have the right blade and a reasonable feed rate. North of that, you'll probably want to rip in passes or use a thinner kerf blade for the harder woods.

Mort Stevens

04-23-2015, 3:52 PM

I would recommend the SawStop Contractor's Saw, but even buying it without a fence will put you about $300 over your budget.

I second this recommendation. $300 isn't that much more than you were wanting to spend and when you consider that this is the most used tool in the shop it's money well spent.

The Sawstop is far better made than anything Grizzly or Delta offers in this range.

My local Woodcraft keeps SawStop in stock, they come in 6 boxes with the heaviest being about 150 lbs. You could have it assembled and start using it within 2 hours!

Josh Saul

04-23-2015, 4:10 PM

It seems to me you are more of a buy it from a brick and mortar shop person, then no hassles with freight, etc. do you have any woodworking shops within driving range? Rockler, Woodcraft, others? Might be nice to kick the tires before you buy. You might be able to try Shop Fox, Jet, General Internationnal... Some of the Craftsman might also be an option.

Woodcraft's headquarters just so happens to be about 90 minutes up the road from me (I'm in Charleston, WV) but most of their options start in the $1000+ range, which just isn't in the cards for me right now.

Jeffrey Martel

04-23-2015, 4:54 PM

I would drive the 3 hours each way to pick up the G0771 from Grizzly's warehouse in PA. As far as how heavy it is, I was able to get it out of my Jeep by myself without taking anything out of the box. I just slid it out and down onto the ground while one end was resting on the bumper still. Then you just stand it up. Leave it on the pallet and drop it onto a mobile base from there. The G0715 still has the alignment issues that plagues lower end saws. The G0771 does not. You won't have an issue with power at all. I really like the Grizzly saw, crappy fence and all.

scott spencer

04-23-2015, 6:22 PM

Can anyone speak to the power I can expect to get from either of these Delta saws?

There's only a 15% difference in motor power between the two, so it shouldn't be huge. Saw blade selection and setup of the saw are big factors in perceived cutting power, and what it'll handle. So is the density and moisture content of the wood, and whether or not the wood is flat and straight. I've had two saws with 15 amp belt drive induction motors, and both were reasonably capable of cutting 10/4" in less dense materials that were flat and straight....pine, oak, ash, walnut, cherry, poplar, etc....I think they'd struggle in hard maple or mequite of that range, but would get through it.

Bill Graham

04-23-2015, 8:36 PM

I second this recommendation. $300 isn't that much more than you were wanting to spend and when you consider that this is the most used tool in the shop it's money well spent.

The Sawstop is far better made than anything Grizzly or Delta offers in this range.

My local Woodcraft keeps SawStop in stock, they come in 6 boxes with the heaviest being about 150 lbs. You could have it assembled and start using it within 2 hours!

I'll add a big +1 to this post, it's a heckuva saw. If you can buy it without a fence for $1300 you'll be glad you did. I researched for a month before deciding on the Sawstop and I've not been disappointed. I bought mine a couple years ago with the standard fence(that hasn't seen the light of day since I have an Incra fence) and the optional cast-iron wings. It went together smoothly(best instructions and hardware packaging in the business), didn't have to adjust the trunnion to parallel the blade with the miter slot or the 45/90 stops and it rips 8/4 hard maple with no problem. The dust collection beats any saw I've ever run, add in the DC blade guard and it's a real winner. The only thing I don't like about the saw is that the riving knife is a beast to adjust.

Save a few more quarters and you'll be glad you did. I imagine resale value is high, I've never seen one on Craigslist or even on a forum to get an idea.

HTH,
Bill

scott spencer

04-23-2015, 9:03 PM

I'll add a big +1 to this post, it's a heckuva saw. If you can buy it without a fence for $1300 you'll be glad you did. I researched for a month before deciding on the Sawstop and I've not been disappointed. I bought mine a couple years ago with the standard fence(that hasn't seen the light of day since I have an Incra fence) and the optional cast-iron wings. It went together smoothly(best instructions and hardware packaging in the business), didn't have to adjust the trunnion to parallel the blade with the miter slot or the 45/90 stops and it rips 8/4 hard maple with no problem. The dust collection beats any saw I've ever run, add in the DC blade guard and it's a real winner. The only thing I don't like about the saw is that the riving knife is a beast to adjust.

Save a few more quarters and you'll be glad you did. I imagine resale value is high, I've never seen one on Craigslist or even on a forum to get an idea.

HTH,
Bill

I don't know that you can buy any of the Saw Stop saws without a fence. The basic stock fence adds $0, and that's the lowest price option I see....$1600 for the contractor saw with steel wings and no mobile base. Someone please clarify if you can.

John Donhowe

04-23-2015, 9:28 PM

One option you might consider is to check out the Craftsman 22116- it's made by the same mfr as makes (made?) Steel City saws, with granite top, Biesemeyer type fence, and cabinet mounted trunnions. It has a 1-3/4 hp motor, so if you need a lot of power, may not suit you. There appears to be one through Sears Outlet at the Charleston WV Sears store, for $660. For the money, I think it's a great value. BTW, if you go to the store directly (rather than through searsoutlet.com), you might be able to negotiate the price down by talking to someone in person.

daryl moses

04-23-2015, 9:43 PM

I just recently purchased a new Grizzly 0771 to replace my old Craftsman 113. I am very pleased with the new Grizzly. It was a snap to put together and after some minor adjustments with the fence and miter it cuts great. The blade that comes with it isn't the best but is serviceable for rough cuts.
BTW, I live in the boonies and there is no way I could get home delivery, I did the same thing I did when I purchased my new lathe and picked it up at the freight terminal. They loaded it into my pickup with a fork lift.

Josh Saul

04-25-2015, 5:26 PM

After some consideration, and all the advice from you guys, it really seems like the Griz is the saw for me.

Scott Cenicola

04-25-2015, 7:52 PM

After some consideration, and all the advice from you guys, it really seems like the Griz is the saw for me.

It is! Pull the trigger lol! Seriously, I took delivery a few weeks ago and don't regret it one bit. $800 is a big purchase for me, but I would do it again tomorrow. If you can drive rount trip one day to pick it up and that's what makes you comfortable then do that. I was impressed with the delivery as many other members have said, but go with what makes you feel good. Last point, comparing it to the Delta at Lowe's, there is no contest. Much better fit and finish, and the cast iron table blows the Delta away. The Delta table top appears flimsy in comparison.

David Hendricks

04-25-2015, 10:38 PM

He like me is a West Virginian, basically means to go any where you have to drive hours so I doubt that is a problem. I was just at the woodcraft in Lexington, Ky today I was quite impressed with the sawstop job site saw build wise, the price was not great though. There are local dealers who might be able to order the grizzly saw for you. I can give you a number for a local guy I use if you like.

Bob Faris

04-26-2015, 8:21 PM

Check with Grizzly to see what the price of the saw would be without the fence and rails. Or maybe they would give you lift-gate shipping in exchange for not ordering the fence assembly.

John Sanford

04-27-2015, 12:51 PM

I don't know that you can buy any of the Saw Stop saws without a fence. The basic stock fence adds $0, and that's the lowest price option I see....$1600 for the contractor saw with steel wings and no mobile base. Someone please clarify if you can.

You can get the PCS w/o a fence, although SawStop corp will grouse at your retailer. The saw is one part #, the fence system is another part #. Whether or not your retailer will do it is a separate question. The ICS and Contractor's are the same. I expect that the Jobsite saw can not be purchased w/o a fence though.

scott spencer

04-27-2015, 3:21 PM

You can get the PCS w/o a fence, although SawStop corp will grouse at your retailer. The saw is one part #, the fence system is another part #. Whether or not your retailer will do it is a separate question. The ICS and Contractor's are the same. I expect that the Jobsite saw can not be purchased w/o a fence though.

Thanks for the detailed info John.

Josh Saul

04-28-2015, 6:58 PM

Grizzly will not sell me the 0771 without a fence, but that's fine. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but when I do, I am inclined to plan on putting the Delta T3 I have sitting in my basement on it, for the simple reason that I don't have anything else to do with it, other than to try to sell it for much less than I paid for it.

The Saw Stop saws look great, even beyond their proprietary safety feature that commands the premium, but the most inexpensive piece in their line is twice what I was originally looking to spend, and substantially outside my budget. Seriously, it really doesn't look like there's anything else for the money that touches the G0771. 2hp motor, included cast iron wings, cabinet mounted trunnions. If I'm wrong, let me know!

Chuck Hart

04-28-2015, 8:24 PM

Josh I mentioned the Delta based on what you had asked for in pricing, but I think you will do fine with Grizzly. Their follow up service is good. And the 0771 is on sale right now! Good luck.

Chuck

Josh Saul

05-08-2015, 2:00 AM

So, the Grizzly G0771 arrived today - thanks for all of your advice and encouragement to not settle on something less because of the shipping. It came via UPS Freight. There was no damage at all to the box, and the driver helped me wheel it up my driveway, which was no simple task. I did have the presence of mind the night before the delivery was scheduled to run to the neighborhood U-Haul to rent an appliance dolly. THAT saved the day. I haven't been able to do much in the way of setup & assembly today, but the fit & finish on this saw looks very nice, especially for the money. It seriously looks and feels like a saw that costs twice as much as the new Deltas they're stocking at Lowes.

I do have a question though - the saw is bolted down to the pallet for stability, which is nice, but it's not obvious to me how to remove the bolts, and there's no mention of it in the manual (which, I might add, is all in English). Any tips for unbolting the saw?

Victor Robinson

05-08-2015, 3:11 AM

I do have a question though - the saw is bolted down to the pallet for stability, which is nice, but it's not obvious to me how to remove the bolts, and there's no mention of it in the manual (which, I might add, is all in English). Any tips for unbolting the saw?

Congrats on the new saw! I'm not sure if your saw is bolted down the same way my Grizz jointer and planer were. My planer was secured to the pallet with angle brackets. Had to hold the nut under the pallet with a crescent wrench while turning the bolt with a ratchet.

Dennis Aspö

05-08-2015, 3:39 AM

5. Portability. This is last for a reason. I don't need to be able to move it across town, but I do need to be able to move it across my shop.

I doubt this is a big issue with any saw you are likely to get, there are easy to make wooden mobile bases that lift the saw when you need to move it, and then it stands on its own legs the rest of the time. I move my 600lbs saw around the room like this.

Mike Wilkins

05-08-2015, 8:30 AM

I was able to pick up a slightly used Grizzly/Polar Bear 0715 for around 5 Benjamins recently. The PO stated he only had issues with the 45* tilting alignment but he squared it before I got my mitts on it. Good power with 220 volts-not sure if this is an issue for you. If you get one of the Grizzly machines, do yourself a favor; get rid of the blade that comes with it and get some better quality cutters for the machine. Makes all the difference in the world for quality cuts.
Keep your eye on the local classified ads such as Craigslist or newspaper ads; you may get lucky like I did.

Jeffrey Martel

05-08-2015, 1:38 PM

I do have a question though - the saw is bolted down to the pallet for stability, which is nice, but it's not obvious to me how to remove the bolts, and there's no mention of it in the manual (which, I might add, is all in English). Any tips for unbolting the saw?

Congrats.

The saw is held onto the pallet with socket head cap screws. You will need a hex key to undo them. You will have to lay on the ground and reach in under the pallet to undo it. I believe there's either 2 or 4 bolts.

Josh Saul

05-09-2015, 3:21 AM

Congrats.

The saw is held onto the pallet with socket head cap screws. You will need a hex key to undo them. You will have to lay on the ground and reach in under the pallet to undo it. I believe there's either 2 or 4 bolts.

THANK YOU for the pro tip. It ended up being really simple to detach the saw from the pallet, but it sure wasn't obvious that a hex key was the answer. You saved me all sorts of frustration.

I moved the saw onto the Shop Fox mobile base, and attached the cast iron wings. This was a heck of a job to do solo, but I managed. My next question for you guys is, how perfectly level must the wings be to the saw?

I've got it pretty close - as close as I can get it without using shims and seriously upping the frustration level. I haven't broke out the feeler gauges and taken any hardcore measurements, but my gut is that the saw is more perfectly flat than the wood I'll ever put on it. If I'm being nitpicky though, the right hand side of the table, where it meets the wing, seems to be ever so slightly proud in its center relative to the wing. Or, maybe the wing is slightly concave. But again, this difference is only ever so slightly noticeable when running a hand across the top, and basically invisible to the naked eye, even when using a straight edge. I want to call this good, but tell me if i'm wrong.

scott spencer

05-09-2015, 6:46 AM

If the wood doesn't catch on the wings in either direction, you should be good. Get the blade aligned with the miter slots, then adjust the fence to be parallel with the miter slots too. I'd make some test cuts first before checking the wing flatness further. If it cuts perfectly, no need for further adjustment.

Scott Cenicola

05-09-2015, 9:26 AM

Josh,

Congrats on the new saw. I hope you love it as much as I love mine. You're not kidding about the wings being tough to do by yourself. You know what they say around here, no pics and it didn't happen! Best of luck! Glad to see you were able to overcome the shipping issue and get a great saw for your money.

Josh Saul

05-13-2015, 1:28 AM

Pics to come, I swear.

I'm still only about 75% through the assembly, since I was away from home over the weekend. So, if you recall from early in the thread, I have a shiny new Delta T2 fence here from my abandoned Craftsman 113 rehab project. I was going to try to put that on my 0771, if possible. It's looking now like that's not going to happen. The holes on the Delta rails *almost* align, to the point where drilling new holes in the rail wouldn't leave enough meat for the hardware to hold on to. I could always drill new holes into the table and the rails, but that's where the law of diminishing returns kicks in for me. As much as I like the Delta fence, I would much rather find something that's closer to a direct replacement.

And the thing is, I think I'm going to want a new fence for this saw sooner rather than later. Others have said that the fence is a weak point on the 0771, and I think I agree. With the obvious caveats about how I haven't made the first cut yet, it's not just that the fence is lacking Bies-style functionality i want, it's just not built up to the same heft as the rest of the machine. It feels like it belongs on some other, lesser saw.

Also, as others have noted, it's during the fence part of the assembly that you start to get into areas where the instructions are either unclear or just plain wrong in a few places. It's as if they've made some adjustments to the hardware and fasteners that are included that are likely an improvement, but none of these changes are reflected in the manual. I mean, how hard would it be to include a link to a revised manual, or attach an addendum as a PDF in an email when the order ships? I'm not accustomed to this sort indifference to important details with any other sort of product.

In the meantime, if anyone knows of aftermarket fences that are more a direct replacement I can start lusting over, share away. Window shopping is at least half the fun.

scott spencer

05-13-2015, 5:31 AM

You might check with Grizzly's tech service about aftermarket fences.... one of theirs could be a direct fit. If not, the Vega is a great fence, sometimes a good bargain, and is an easier install than most.

David Hendricks

05-13-2015, 4:09 PM

You might want to look at shop fox fences, I believe the shop fox line is made by grizzly, there is a chance they might line up. There is a guy in Huntington that stocks some shop fox fences, even has Shop Fox machines in his store. Give him a call he has always been very helpful to me, his shop is called Withrow Sharpening Services.

Mort Stevens

05-13-2015, 5:43 PM

The holes on the Delta rails *almost* align, to the point where drilling new holes in the rail wouldn't leave enough meat for the hardware to hold on to.

The T2 fence is very nice, it's like a Biesemeyer Jr. but with a smaller front tube and a rail at the rear that the fence rides on. If it were me, I wouldn't give up on the T2 fence just yet...

The rails are just made from a steel 1-1/2"x1-1/2"x1/4" angle, I'd just get some new steel angles and drill the holes as necessary. Steel is cheap and the 1-1/2" angle shape is very common that any steel supplier will have it in stock. An hour or so of your time and can of spray paint and you I think you can adapt the T2 fence system successfully.

Josh Saul

05-14-2015, 11:31 PM

The T2 fence is very nice, it's like a Biesemeyer Jr. but with a smaller front tube and a rail at the rear that the fence rides on. If it were me, I wouldn't give up on the T2 fence just yet...

I'm not ready to kick it out the door yet, because it is so nice. I'm really bummed that installing it as-is isn't an option. I am still not crazy about the stock fence. It's not a T-square design, and I feel like I'll always have to nudge and measure, nudge and measure, to get straight accurate cuts. Getting a piece of angle iron and drilling out all those holes myself is an option. I'm thinking about it. But at a certain point I'll have to decide how much value I put on my time. If something out there is a direct replacement, I'll have a hard time not pulling the trigger.

Josh Saul

05-15-2015, 3:18 PM

The rails are just made from a steel 1-1/2"x1-1/2"x1/4" angle, I'd just get some new steel angles and drill the holes as necessary. Steel is cheap and the 1-1/2" angle shape is very common that any steel supplier will have it in stock. An hour or so of your time and can of spray paint and you I think you can adapt the T2 fence system successfully.

Back to what Mort was suggesting - I don't know why this didn't occur to me earlier, but I think a very simple solution has been sitting right in front of me all along.

The problem is that there are too many pre-drilled mounting holes on the rails. So just flip the rails over and end-for-end, and drill all new mounting holes on the other side of the angle, the one with fewer holes. (Or in the case of the back rail, no holes.) For the front rail, drill new holes to mount the tube. I checked, and the existing holes won't interfere with this. The key, as Mort pointed out, is that the rails are just angled steel, and both sides of the angle are the same size.

Is there any reason why this won't work? I'm embarrassed that it took me so long to think of it.