Help - Partial Inset Hinges

[Bill Clifton]

309355309356I am replacing the hinges on my kitchen cabinets. The old, 1980 inset hinges have a 3/8" inset and 3/8" lip depth - normal. I order new hinges, Liberty brand, from one of the big box stores. They have a 3/8" inset and 3/8" lip depth. They fit the door pretty well. The problem is that when you screw the hinge to the face frame they cause the door to stand-off from the frame - see picture, 1/8+" - it looks real bad. The new hinge causes the door to be further from the hinge so that the door no longer fits in the frame - this is the other picture. In this picture I am looking directly into the hinge - the gap between the pin and the door is much larger than the old hinges.

I only tried one manufacturer. I ordered another set but apparently didn't order or didn't receive inset hinges.

Suggestions? - try hinges from a more reputable manufacturer? I am looking for bushed nickel, the pulls are "bird cage" with holes on 3" centers. Any suggested brand?

Thanks

[Mike Henderson]

I'm sure you thought of this, but you can inset the hinge into the door. You'd have to do hinge mortises on all the doors, which would not be fun, but with a jig and a router it should go pretty quick.

Mike

[Lee Schierer]

I think that the way they make the hinges so they hold the door shut in modern hinges makes it necessary for the additional stand off distance. You might try non-self closing hinges to see if their stand off distance is different or possibly a different brand.

[Jerry Miner]

When installing those hinges, remember that the "relaxed" position of the hinge is not the "installed" position. You need to force the hinge flat to the face frame when laying out the screw holes, or the door will be shifted into the opening (and the pair will hit each other).

When all else fails, those hinges can be "tweaked" --- a blow with a hammer (and a padded block) to the face of the door will bend the hinge leaf and bring the door closer to the face frame. If you go too far, a shim placed between the hinge leaves (behind the door) with some leverage applied by partially closing the door can bend it back out.

Similarly, a wedge placed between a pair of doors as they are forced closed will bend the hinge outward and create a gap between the doors. (This used to be common practice among "gorilla carpenters" when setting cabinets with those hinges)

You may want to practice the technique on a mock-up door first.

[John A langley]

Jerry gorilla carpenters that's a new one on me. I've been called other things but not that , seriously the nature of those hinges require a lot of tweaking thank God for euro hinges. I personally don't think the gap that you're getting is that bad for that kind of hinge

[glenn bradley]

I agree with John that the tolerances you are seeing are typical for that hinge. Since you are replacing, if you want to avoid filling holes and touching up the paint I think your choices are:
- accept the hinge for what it is
- modify the existing hinge or the mounting of it
- acquire a different hinge where the leaf and mount align better

The typical gaps/accuracies in even the nicest kitchens seem to run toward 1/8". You may want to live with it for a couple of weeks and see if it still bothers you. If it does, you can then take action.

[Jerry Miner]

Jerry gorilla carpenters that's a new one on me. I've been called other things but not that , seriously the nature of those hinges require a lot of tweaking thank God for euro hinges. I personally don't think the gap that you're getting is that bad for that kind of hinge

John-- no offense intended with the term. I hope you know I am including myself in the "gorilla" group :)

[John A langley]

Absolutely no offense taken, just a new term to put in the book

[Myk Rian]

With that hinge, your only out is to inset the hinge into the door..