20mm MFT bench dog holes or standard 3/4" hole for portable workbench

[James Nugnes]

So I am part way through putting the material together to make a portable workbench. Spring is about to spring. I usually work in the basement but will even work in the garage with the garage door open in the dead of winter just to get some fresh air. Been kind of a tough winter for me and glad to see it go. But no sense in going into it. Stuff happens.

Once the weather in the Northaast gets better, I can work out on the platform outside the basement or again in the garage with the garage door open in much more pleasant conditions than mid-winter.

I am building a supplemental work bench that I can use with those C470 sawhorses that have the L bracket ends that accept 2 x 4's as a foundation. I will end up with two 24 x 48 sections with top and bottom in ply and will join them the way Paults joins his portable job site workbench. That will net out to a 48" x 48" work surface. Two sections that break down like that will allow me to move the whole contraption between the two outdoor locations without killing myself while still giving me a decent sized working surface for what I do.

I can either go the 20mm hole Festool MFT bench dog hole route or the more traditional 3/4" hole bench dog route. Will probably do something between 3" and 4" for spacing...maybe the 96mm spacing of the MFT. Just wondering what folks here think makes the most sense.

Unless I am mistaken, the 20mm hole size will mean using the Festool MFT dogs or their equivalents exclusively. There are surely more standard 3/4" hole options out there. But the Festool dogs do seem to work well together in their two size configurations. Not that it matters but I already have the Festool rail. Although a third option might make no sense at all, I should just toss it out there just because. I could equip one of the 24" by 48" segments with 20mm holes and the other with 3/4" holes using the same spacing for both. Don't think that will get me anything really but hey....what do I know! Somebody here might consider that and determine that it is a worthwhile idea. I am more inclined to think using the same size holes across the whole surface makes the most sense but, why be conventional.....its a portable unit anyway and as I said, maybe just mentioning it will spur somebody to suggest a use for something that has both hole sizes.

So whatever you guys think...., all 20mm, all 3/4 hole or half and half?? Any opinions and ideas surely welcome.

[Bob Falk]

James,
I have been struggling with the same issue as I have decided to build an MFT type 5'x4' outfeed table for my table saw as well as the Paulk work tables as non-permanent work tables to breakdown sheet goods. I have decided to go with 20mm. A 20mm (0.787") hole is a larger diameter hole and all 3/4" dogs (and other hardware) will fit (albeit a bit sloppy), whereas I am not sure a 20mm hardware can be squeezed into a 3/4" hole. Also, I like the Festool low profile clamp (though pricey) which fits in the 20mm hole:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNEC1Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18ZSR4O4UTDS&coliid=I1YQUW824WHYFP

I just bought the following 20mm bit and have access to a CNC router, so will have my outfeed table top accurately drilled at 96mm centers using this bit. I will use 3/4" high grade Baltic Birch and laminate with Formica (along the lines of the Askwoodman work table). My plan is to use this accurately drilled table as a template to drill the plywood for the Paulk tables.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS327K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am hoping to purchase a Festool track saw down the road. Rather than purchase the pricy Quasdogs, I intend to turn 20mm dogs on my lathe from a very dense hardwood (I think I have some lignum vitae turning blocks lying around).

My $0.02

Bob

[Jim Dwight]

I believe the plastic B&D workmate dogs fit a 20mm hole. I've purchased extras from Rockler. I intend to use the 20mm hole (even though I hate metric measurements).

I also plan to get a special plunge router base a guy on the Festool forum offers for about $40. It has four 1/4 pegs to fit in pegboard so you can use the pegboard spacing to create your MFT top. The hole spacing ends up on 3 inch centers - but that's no issue for me. If you have a plunge router, this seems like an easy way to get a really good MFT style top.

[James Nugnes]

I know what you mean about the Festool dogs. It is the combination of the short dogs with the long dogs that really interests me. What a neat, clean way to deal with the rail and the workpiece from anywhere on the surface. On the other hand, I would also like to use the Veritas Surface vice and things like it which sort of makes me think about doing one 24 x 48 in 0.75" and the other in 20mm. I don't think something like that surface vice will work in holes too large for it. You need to get bite around the posts of the vice to get it to work correctly I think.

What floors me about this end of the project is watching what Paults does to make his 0.75" holes and dealing with everything we are trying to throw at such a project. Have you seen him? He just drops an OF1400 router with an 0.75" bit straight into the ply and that is that....no added fixtures...no nothing! Makes me want to just go find some rope and hang myself! Granted he is working with 0.50" thick ply and not 0.75" thick ply. Somehow I just don't think that extra 0.25" is making all the dif. He is cutting the holes in both sheets (top and bottom) in one pass. So he is cutting into 1.00" ply. Why doesn't his router creep? I do notice that there is no hesitation on his part. Straight into the ply ....bang done. He does not seem to give the router a chance to creep.

[Jim Dwight]

I think his router is on the track, right? That controls some movement. I also don't think he is using a normal straight bit. I wouldn't either. They complain way too much. Either a straight bit with a bottom carbide cutter or a spiral upcut bit works far better for boring holes. But the track only controls the holes in one dimension. The other direction Paulk just controls with pencil marks. OK for clamping but wouldn't be dependable for right angle cutting with dogs.

These are cheaper than the Veritas surface vise and look like they would work well:

http://hardwarespot.com/clamping-elements-by-festool-488030-2-pack.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CMPd2KOVrcQCFYVAaQodEKQAgA

I like Veritas stuff but leave it to them to make something from Festool look cheap.

[John Huds0n]

Lee Valley sells a bushing you may be interested in
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/Page.aspx?p=72602&cat=1,41637

But, I think the best way to cut 20mm holes (and this is what I have done) is to purchase a replacement Festool top to use as a template. $83 from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Festool-488565-Perforated-plate-repl/dp/B003KN3V3W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426520838&sr=8-2&keywords=festool+perforated+plate

Clamp the top to your workpiece with a backer board underneath and proceed to drill out the holes with a 5/8" drill bit. Then break out your router with a 1/2" flush trim bit (bearing on top) and remove the rest of the material - leaving a perfect copy

Slide the template over and use the longer dawgs to pin it to a couple of holes you just drilled and repeat. My workbench is 4' x 8' using this method

[James Nugnes]

I have the bit that Paults uses and you are right....it is not a straight bit at all but is a 3/4" spiral-upcut, 1/2" shank, 1.25" long from Onsrud. I have to check again because it has been awhile since I have seen it, but yes I think he does use the track. He loves the track. So I am guessing he would use it as a matter of course. Still would not necessarily prevent the router from creeping and yes everything else is definitely just pencil markings, him and the router.

It is enough to make you wish that the replacement tops you can buy where not 3/4" thick MDF. That has got to be pretty heavy at any size at all and at least in my project, weight is an issue.

[James Nugnes]

John that bushing and drill set does look interesting. Not sure if its the right solution for me but it does look interesting. I am guessing that if you had a 1/2" chuck drill, that 10mm shank bit will fit right in there. By the way while I do not favor the Hitachi 3/8" drill, they make a heck of a good 1/2" for not a ton of money. Has a handle that can be switched from the left to the right side of the drill and its a tank. It is corded.

[James Nugnes]

Before I forget, has anybody tried that Rockler Jig-IT drill guide part number 91981. It and the bits are made for a 3/8" drill. Little leery of that. Prefer a variable speed 1/2" for this kind of a job. But hey, if somebody has already used it, maybe its OK.

[Val Kosmider]

Not sure that the difference between 3/4" and 20 MM is relevant when it comes to bench dogs.

I got "cheap" when I bought bench dogs for my new bench....I forget the numbers now, but brass were each about three times more expensive than the box of three or four (fiberglass/plastic?) I bought from Kreg. I was leery, but it turns out the Kreg work fine, and are a little "softer" on tools when they accidently hit the dog.

[James Nugnes]

Val,

I think the only bench dogs that some of us in this thread are really impressed with are the Parf dogs one pair shorter than the other in stainless steel and brass also I think....They provide a very low profile means to secure the workpiece to the top and then secure the rail over the workpiece. They are really low profile and i really like them. I think Veritas has those in brass and stainless. But don't quite me on it. Does not mean that other Bench Dogs are Doggy Do. It just means that those dogs (The Parf Dogs) are really neat....very tidy and useful in combination with other dogs and clamps.

I like the Kregs as well and if I go 0.75" hole, I will likely get a set of those mainly because they seem to work fine and have that friction top surface which is a nice feature I think. Myself I would not be comfortable depending on those friction tops but I would think they work fine with some limited additional clamping to go with them. The more I think about this the closer I get to talking myself into doing one section in 20mm and the other in 0.75".

[john Intosa]

I will add my thoughts on 3/4 inch vs 20mm holes and building vs buying the table. A bit on principle I didn't want to pay the Festool premium for a sheet of drilled MDF. Rocker, Kreg, Lee valley and others offers a variety of cheaper 3/4 dog accessories. The problem is that between Festool and the aftermarket crowd, Festool is clearly the winner in innovation and capitalizing on the concept of systems. Rather than fight it, I settled on 20mm for the long term.

I did start with making a pseudo MFT with 3/4 holes 4 inches on center. I bought a 3/4 straight plunge bit from Woodline. Straight blade with cutter on tip. Holes surprisingly clean. Spiral 3/4 bit would be ideal, but hard to find and big bucks. Template with 1.000 holes 4 inches on center out of 1/2 PVC board. Brass bushing 1 inch OD and 7/8 ID and plunge router.

To make the 20mm holes 4 inches on center, I used the Bosch 20mm boring bit with 1/2 to 10mm sleeve adapter that "Ask woodman" used along with a plunge router at low speed. The shank has a flat, so you need the sleeve to not only to fit a1/2 collet, but even in drill press you would need it to allow the bit to stay centered in the chuck. I laid out a grid and then used an optical punch (great tool) to make a dimple in the wood. With router off, and plunge down, the center of the boring bit drops in the dimple. Keep router base in this position, raise router, turn on, plunge, repeat.... This system worked best for me.

For an investment of $50, you have the bits to create your own table. I see mine more as a clamping and work table. I'm working on an adjustable fence to allow adjustment to exactly 90 for cross cuts.

[John Huds0n]

If you're talking about these
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=71185

I would agree - they are the best ones that I have come across and I usually buy some more when they have free shipping (you can never have too many)

[Lee Reep]

Parf Dogs are amazing -- incredibly well machined. I did my own MFT top on a ShopBot, and used 20mm holes. But I had Qwas rail dogs to anchor my Festool rail to my MFT. Qwas dogs (rail and bench) are very good, and work well. It was imperative that I had absolute accuracy, and the widest range of "Festool-compatible" dogs and clamps, so that is why i went 20mm. I have some really great clamps that are 3/4", and they work fine in a 20mm hole. Mine were branded Jorgenson, but are identical to these at Lee Valley. And they are cheap at only $12.50 a pair:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=31150&cat=1,43838,43845&ap=1

[Lee Reep]

If your talking about these
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=71185

I would agree - they are the best ones that I have come across and I usually buy some more when they have free shipping (you can never have too many)

I have ordered Parf Dogs twice when free shipping came along. I have 2 short, and 4 long. And plan to buy more when I place my next LV order ... :)
I also bought the 20mm "worklight bushing", and use it to drop a screwdriver or other pointed tool into my MFT workbench.

[James Nugnes]

OK, I guess I am going to make at least one of the 24" x 48" panels or sections 20mm. Been struggling with the best way but Paults uses a router and bit for 0.75" holes, I have seen enough posts here to make me think that the Bosch 20mm bit bit with the reduction sleeve will work in a router OK as long as you set for low speed. Actually I suspect the 0.75 spiral bit wants low speed as well.

By the way...right about that Onsrud 0.75 Spiral bit. It is hard to find and pricy. Best way to get it IMO, Amazon fulfilled for Ballew Saw. It is the best combination of terms, price and shipping cost. All in $47.20. I have seen it as high as $59.00 plus shipping and handling for a total more like $70.00. Ballew has inventory as well. But if you go straight to them, you will end up with a minimum order threshold just to order anything and a shipping cost to boot. With Amazon you can order the one bit and get free shipping.

Pretty much settled on using the router for the job.

So finally I do think it makes sense to make one 24 x 48 panel 3/4" hole and the other 20mm hole. It would be neat to not be cornered into one or the other. Get to take advantage of all the Festool advances and the traditional stuff as well....even be able to mix the two...like using that Veritas surface vise and the Perf dogs together. I would love to be able to convince myself that the Veritas surface vise will be stable enough in two 20mm holes. But I can't get myself there looking at the way that particular vise is set up to work. Maybe those Veritas Wonder dogs make more sense.....nice long single post with the usual spring to customize and tighten fit. There is just something i don't like about them. Have not figured it out. Has anybody tried both the Surface vise and the Wonder dogs and can comment on strengths and weaknesses? The surface vise is not going to be able to do what a big twin screw under table vise can do. But the weight alone of that kind of vise would do in my portability thing for this workbench. This workbench is all about versatility, flexibility and being able to move it from garage to back platform, taking advantage of the coming good weather to work outdoors.

[John Huds0n]

I have looked at the Veritas Surface Vise - and to me, one of the main features (and what your paying for) is the ability to secure the vise to the worktable from the top using their 'wedge-adjusting mechanism'. It looks like it is mostly used in a traditional style workbench that is very thick and made from solid wood. Keep in mind, one of the main advantages of the Paulk style workbench is the ability to access the underside of the top!

Have you looked at the Festool Clamping Elements? They actually work quite well and with holes spread across the surface of the work table - they are very easy to move and securely fasten to the table from underneath with the knobs that are included:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-festool-clamping-elements-ts-product-no-488030/

I wouldn't want to have to mix and match the dawgs - personally I would pick one size and stick with it

The longer dogs were designed to be used with a track saw. The beauty of the Festool MFT style type is the grid is precisely laid out. You use a couple of the shorter dogs along one edge of a workpiece to align it and then you use the longer dogs perpendicular to get a perfect 90 degree cut (or a 45 degrees, etc). You are only really going to get that precision if you use an original MFT top as a template or have one made with a cnc

[James Nugnes]

I wondered how those would be a substitute for the surface vise. Looks like that hook thing at the very end is the only piece that is holding the clamp against the workpiece. You do get two of them and they look like the hole size actually does not matter that much. So if I did build this thing with one section in 0.75 and the other in 20mm, they would work in either side I think. I don't think the Veritas surface vise would do that as they are depending on the post turning and gripping the inside diameter of the hole as you actuate the vise.I suppose you could get some gripping action out of the vise as its interface to the table top is it has two posts.

I am a little worried about comments from users of the Festool devices that the tend to lift the workpiece off the table and or end up a bit damaged in the process of actuating given the materials (plastic and soft metal). For their price, you might like them to be a bit less vulnerable to damage. Nothing is perfect though.

As for the tops themselves....there are so many people making CNC tops now out of various materials that I am kicking myself a bit for even lurching to a decision to make the tops myself. Hardly seems worthwhile. That said, one thing I planned on doing differently than an MFT was to drill both the tops and bottoms ala' other portable work surfaces. You could space the tops from the bottoms such that you could get your hands in between if you wanted to secure things from under the top or could span the gap with posts long enough to do that.

Thanks for the suggestion by the way.

[John Huds0n]

What do you plan on using the surface vise for? If it is just to hold pieces flat on the table while you sand, route etc, the Festool Clamping elements should work fine. They will not lift off the surface - if you secure them underneath with the knobs.

[Chris Padilla]

I use the QWAS system of dogs with my MFTs. Even got some in Festool green. :)

[James Nugnes]

I like some of that QWAS stuff. Very nice indeed. I am an absolute sucker for the small stuff...Any neat little thing that lets me do something faster or better gets me hooked. I am not even a challenge.

[James Nugnes]

What would you guys think of getting one of those MFT800 replacement tables and using that as a template? It is small but obviously well made and square. I want to have holes top and bottom x 2 for the two sections of this thing. You can buy CNC table tops pretty reasonable. But if you want drilled holes top and bottom in my case that would make 4 of those things. That could get pricy. Probably better off getting that small replacement table and use it as a template I Think?????

[Chris Padilla]

Honestly, I'm quite surprised by the reasonable cost of the MFT800 at $83. I have two MFT1080s: one I bought new and another a CL find and a $120 for a new top doesn't sound so bad.

[James Nugnes]

Yup that is what I think as well.

[Phil Barrett]

Take a look at what anthonyz at FOG is doing. He has a router base with pins that line up in the holes in standard 1/4" pegboard. Place a sheet of pegboard over the plywood, chuck a 20mm (or 3/4") bit, line up the pegs in the router base with the pegboard holes and plunge away. I probably would predrill the holes to 1/2" or so to make the plunge easier. Someone sells a template base but it looks easy enough to make your own. The pins could just be cut off 1/4" bolts that have a straight section. Since I think it's not consider kosher to post direct links to other discussion boards, search for "MFT template for custom tops".

[Jim Dwight]

I bought one of the router bases yesterday. Shipping depends on where you live but it was $38 for me. Kind of pricey for MDF but the users report it works well. I have a 690 plunge router which is one of the models it is set up to work with (a Festool router is the other). Looks like it wouldn't be hard to modify for other makes. It's just a new baseplate - but with precisely machined pins for pegboard. I'll probably get the Freud 20mm bit for making the holes. Amazon also shows a CMT for a little less money but it doesn't say it is for boring holes. The Freud description says it is machined for that. They are both about $20. Both have 1/4 shanks which I don't like. It will probably make sense to pre-drill to 1/2 or 5/8 inch.

[John Huds0n]

If you use a mft top as a template (as I suggested in post #5...) you can make a perfect copy.

All you need is the top, a backer board, drill bit and a router with a 1/2" flush trim bit.

I will warn you that not all 1/2" flush trim bits are the same - some manufacturers deliberately undersize the cutter just a tad which will effect the size of the hole. Freud does not and I actually called Whiteside about it and they dug through their inventory and found me one that the diameter of the bit and the bearing were the same

I did go the extra step and purchased a drill bushing from McMaster Carr to protect the original top while drilling (similar to the one I linked to at Lee Valley)

Once you have the longer dogs, you can make any size top you want by just shifting the template over

[Bradley Potts]

James,

I am hoping to purchase a Festool track saw down the road.
Bob


Bob, I just picked up a Makita w/ 55" track from Amazon for $399; FWW went back and re-reviewed the current lot of track saws, and the Makita edged the Fester out by a whisker (better cut quality, deeper capacity, 1/16" scribe function). That said, I think Amazon got a funky batch of these because mine arrived out of adjustment and Amazon has a placed a mysterious hold on their stock of these saws. After a quick visit to the FOG site, I figured out that the reason my saw was burning like a son-of-a-gun was because instead of having 1.5 degrees of toe-in it had that much heel-in. Just like the Fester, there are 4 set screws on the sole that get loosened for these very adjustments. Now that I correctly toed-in my saw it is an amazing, amazing tool that I wish I had obtained 10 years ago. BTW, the Makita is made in the UK, comes w/ a Makita branded Sortimo Systainer (old style latches), and the Makita track is identical to the Fester, except obviously for the sticker and colors, and it's currently fetching ~$85/ea on Amazon in lieu of Fester's $125. The Makita guide rail connector bars are a 2-piece system that is superior to the Festers (from what I've read online), BUT they are $45 for the necessary 2 sets (must order 2 separate sets) as opposed to the $34 that the Festers cost.

Enough track saw tidbits. The 20mm holes most importantly accommodate the Fester clamps' L-leg. The key thing to dogs is that they have a close fit, just like some of the other accessories -- I'm not planning on cross-pollinating my worktop w/ 20mm-3/4", I'm going to choose one or the other. One could easily use 1/2" galv. pipe as the stem for a DIY wood-topped dog if using the 3/4" holes.

On YouTube I saw a vid RE the MFSlab (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHuSkwqIxyw), which seems like a useful way to get the benefits of a MFT, without the size/expense of the MFT. These guys basically made their own CAD template of an enhanced MFT and have the tops CNC'd locally for a song, and then they use the tops on sawhorses. They offer the CAD file + a fullsize print for $10. Their vid is worth a watch.

-- Bradley

[Bob Falk]

Bradley,
The only Makita track saw I could find on Amazon is $716, so you caught a good deal.....there certainly has been a lot of discussion about 20mm vs. 3/4......I have just decided to go with 20mm and be done with it. Yes, I have watched the MFslab video before...good idea. Regarding the dogs, I just can't bring myself to spend a lot on such a simple device....I have a good lathe (Oneway) with a duplicator, so will make several dogs from hardwood. bob

[Bradley Potts]

Bradley,
The only Makita track saw I could find on Amazon is $716, so you caught a good deal..... Regarding the dogs, I just can't bring myself to spend a lot on such a simple device....I have a good lathe (Oneway) with a duplicator, so will make several dogs from hardwood. bob

I'm not surprised about the Makita; I certainly didn't waste any time buying mine, but I suspect the price will come back down once Amazon sorts out whatever their "issue" is -- I posted my review, noting the adjustment problem fix, in the hopes Amazon would get it sorted out and resume selling a good option to the grossly over-priced Fester.

It's good to hear that I'm not the only one who "can't bring himself" to throw down so much money for such a common and easily created thing as a bench dog, goodness only knows how woodworkers survived before Fester bench dogs. This very item is what has me leaning in the 3/4" direction; I have yet to learn of any reason, other than the use of the Fester clamps, that points to the 20mm choice. In fact, there are MANY more 3/4" options and many of those are comparable or better than what Fester offers (Veritas). For instance, someone spoke about the Fester being stronger than the Bessey (who probably actually makes Fester's clamps), but who cares -- it doesn't seem that the MFT situation is the right one to go loco with clamp pressure.

One might be able to use 3/4" fixtures on a 20mm top with some sort of sleeving, I wonder if anyone has had success with this. Any reasons, other than clamps, to go 20mm?

[Allen Matsumoto]

Does anyone know what the 96mm dimension is about? Maybe I a fraction of a common European cabinet size or something? Seems so random.

I’m going to make myself an MFT top and the 3/4” vs. 20 mm thing has had me stumped for a while, partly because since I don’t have one now, I’m just not steeped in all the options out there. I’m leaning toward 20 mm since I have the Festool track and I see a ton of cool Euro fixtures for MFTs, but am too old to build things in anything but feet and inches, so the hole spacing makes a lot more sense at 4 inches. (For that matter, 100mm seems like it would make more sense…)

So, 20 mm holes with 4” spacing is the plan, but just checking before I start making sawdust and dulling router bits.

I can’t imagine a reason to consider 96mm, but since I am just entering the MFT world, seems good to see if I’m missing something.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Does anyone know what the 96mm dimension is about? Maybe I a fraction of a common European cabinet size or something? Seems so random.
Probably a result of it being a multiple of 32mm.
The Euro-cabinet system or more properly known as the 32mm system & everything is based on that measurement.

[Robert Engel]

James, I’ve been through the same thought process. I’ve concluded the first critical hump to get over is laying out perfectly square grids.

I’ve heard of using pegboard and I believe it’s Woodhaven that has a router template the employs pegboard. Also Woodpecker and Piranha Tools.

Bit he sized holes would get confusing to me. I would go with 20mm simply b/c the Parf dogs work.

The Festool in-line clamps are a bit pricey. I wonder re inline clamps that will fit 20mm holes?

I found this site (http://https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/04/03/multi-function-work-bench/) that looks pretty good.

I’ve located this 20mm bit and 10mm adapter.
469229
469230

[Jack Frederick]

I’m about a third of the way drilling 20mm holes for my 37x72” MFT top using the Parf Guide System Mark II, which I sourced from Lee Valley. The assortment of 20 mm dogs are UJK and some from TSO products. Prior to watching the videos on the PGS I was all in for 3/4” dogs. I was tickled at how the top laid out and will use the Parf sticks laying out the dog holes on my workbench as well. I don’t care abut the spacing as long as they are in line and square to each other, which they are.

[Dave Sabo]

James, I’ve been through the same thought process. I’ve concluded the first critical hump to get over is laying out perfectly square grids.
The Festool in-line clamps are a bit pricey. I wonder re inline clamps that will fit 20mm holes?

I found this site (http://https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/04/03/multi-function-work-bench/) that looks pretty good.

I’ve located this 20mm bit and 10mm adapter.
469229
469230

While Amana makes good stuff, I'd steer clear of these.

First, that arrangement has too many moving piece and the adapter isn't all that good a design to begin with. Second, by the cost isn't much less than the festool 20mm bit which is very good. Having an 8mm shank might be an issue for you, but pretty much all router manuf. have an 8mm collet if you don't already have one.