Belly Pedestal Table question

[Kyle Kovachik]

Long time lurker... I'm trying to figure out the best way to make the legs much like the ones shown in the picture. My thoughts are to glue up four 8/4 pieces, with mitered corners to join them. Then using a bandsaw to create the curve and clean it up. As for attaching them to the table top, I'm thinking about using the conventional figure 8 fasteners. Any thoughts or inputs are appreciated. Thanks.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b9/df/9a/b9df9a717b80d7c7e1aea3c344b2a8bb.jpg

[Dave Richards]

Your idea sounds like a good one if your bandsaw is large enough to handle the depth of cut. Plan for extra length on the legs so you can maintain a level datum after you cut out the shape. Make an extra large table so the ends don't fall off. You could attach a pattern and make a follower to get all the cuts the same.

I'd use something more substantial than figure-8 fasteners for the top. Better would be the metal z-clips or wooden buttons.

[Kyle Kovachik]

Good call on the extra length for the legs. I'll have to go to a friends shop for the bandsaw but it won't be a problem. Can you explain what you mean by "make a follower to get all cuts the same."

I thought about the wooden buttons. I guess the solution there would be to route the groove to fit the buttons would go on the leg. That will be the way to go in my mind. I like the buttons more. thanks.

[Dave Richards]

The "follower" would be a piece of wood no thicker than the template maybe an inch wide and long enough so you can clamp it to the table's left side. Or screw it down if you make the larger auxiliary table. Round the end of the follower and cut a notch in the end so it straddles the blade. the end of the follower is placed about 1/16 to 1/8 in. to the right of the blade. The template, mounted on the bottom of the leg assembly, rides against the follower and prevents you from cutting too deep. Effectively this is like cutting 1/16 to 1/8 outside your cut line. Depending on the bandsaw, the blade and the way it is setup, you may be able to cut closer to the line but you'll want to make a test cut.

You might have a search on Google for pattern cutting on the bandsaw.

I was suggesting the buttons for attaching the top to the aprons. To attach the top assembly to the legs, I'd use a different method. Plan to wrap the pieces you are cutting around a square post. Glue the outside pieces onto that post. Then screw cross rails onto the top of the legs that extend out to the long aprons. Attach those cross rails with mortises and tenons or loose tenons or just fit those cross rails into notches in the aprons. Attach the top to the aprons with buttons or z-clips so the top can move with seasonal humidity changes. You could also add some screws through the cross rails if you elongate the holes to allow for movement.

A picture would make it easier to understand. I'll send you a link to a similar leg and I can make a sketch of the cross rail thing if you need it.

[Brian Tymchak]

Given you mentioned using mitered corners, I'm assuming you are assembling the 4 8/4 boards to create a hollow leg? If that's true, I don't think you are going to be able to get that much curve with 8/4 sides. I think a solid lamination is in order.

[Kyle Kovachik]

I'll google pattern cutting on the bandsaw to make sure I have it down but I think I get the general idea.

The post method for the legs seems a lot better. I was going to think of a hollow type leg but relying on the glued mitered corner for it may have been a little short sighted of me. I understand what you are saying for the cross rail, makes a ton of sense. Other tables I've built have been four legged farmhouse type tables so having the legs in the center of the table (trestle table like??) really threw me for a loop. Thanks a lot for your help.


Given you mentioned using mitered corners, I'm assuming you are assembling the 4 8/4 boards to create a hollow leg? If that's true, I don't think you are going to be able to get that much curve with 8/4 sides. I think a solid lamination is in order.
I my curve will be less extreme with 8/4 boards but if I can get my hands on 12/4, then I'll curve it to fit that. I wanted to stay away from lamination because I think it might be too obvious in the final product. I'm going to be using walnut for it and I didn't really want to mess with dyes to try and match different board through the curve... (maybe steam bending if I get really ambitious). I'm going to glue the curved side boards to a solid center post for added stability as Dave suggested.