Spalted finish

[jared parson]

Maybe a topic for the finish forum, but should any extra consideration be taken when choosing a finish for spalted wood? I've got a spalted ash bowl ready for finishing. There are a couple of very small punky spots (do they need sealed/hardened?), but overall is pretty hard. I'm not yet certain on a finish type, was leaning towards good 'ol Generals SB but figured I'd ask here. Also entertaining the idea of playing with some dye, does this type of wood take dye well? I'm afraid it would be blotchy, but have minimal experience with dye. The spalt is both lining, as well as grey streaks. Thanks for any input.
JP

[Barry McFadden]

Jared...I do quite a bit of turning with spalted birch. I always use polyurathane varnish which works well and seems to strengthen the punky areas...don't have any experience with dyes ...but I would think they may turn out blotchy as you mention....good luck

[Thom Sturgill]

I use lacquer on spalted pieces. Thinned lacquer sanding sealer helps stabilize the wood to minimize tear-out. Dye over the top of the sanding sealer should not penetrate the wood if the sealer was applied until the wood would not take any more. It will just sit on top of the finish. This allows an even coat for dye, but the dye does not enhance the grain (curl or burl) by soaking into end-grain.

Of course I'm not sure I would want to hide the zone lines anyway...

[jared parson]

Thinned lacquer sanding sealer helps stabilize the wood to minimize tear-out.

Thom-are you soaking the piece prior to turning, or applying this before finish cut? or perhaps I misunderstood all together. I did have some bad tear out no matter how sharp I kept my tools, but I guess that's the nature of the beast.

[Michelle Rich]

if you have shellac, it is great for helping you turn punky stuff..stiffens the fibers..then a sealcoat of shellac before any other finish is a great base. If I were you I'd skip the dye..it will be blotchy.

[Thom Sturgill]

Thom-are you soaking the piece prior to turning, or applying this before finish cut? or perhaps I misunderstood all together. I did have some bad tear out no matter how sharp I kept my tools, but I guess that's the nature of the beast.

I apply just before the last cuts. not a soak in the sense of dipping, rather brushed on until no more soaks in. Re-apply as needed and before sanding which needs to be wet sanding in order to keep the paper clean.

[jared parson]

Thanks for the input everyone.

[Mike Nathal]

I prefer water-based poly for spalted pieces. I got this idea from an article by Sara Robinson in AAW magazine. This does not have the amber tones of most of the other oils and varnishes, thus preserving the original color of the wood. Also you can use the water-base poly as a sanding sealer. I sand to 240, then apply the poly, let it dry, then continue to finer grits and re-apply the poly several times. It has a tendency to fill in any punky areas.