Do you leave space at the bottom of mortises for glue squeeze out?

[scott vroom]

When cutting tenons do you make them a bit shorter than the depth of the mortise to allow for some glue squeeze out into the bottom of the mortise? How much? 1/16? 1/8?

[Rod Sheridan]

When cutting tenons do you make them a bit shorter than the depth of the mortise to allow for some glue squeeze out into the bottom of the mortise? How much? 1/16? 1/8?

Of course, otherwise you can get hydraulic lock.

I leave 1/16 to an 1/8 Scott...........Regards, Rod.

[Lee Schierer]

Of course, otherwise you can get hydraulic lock.

I leave 1/16 to an 1/8 Scott...........Regards, Rod.
That's what I do.

[Jeff Duncan]

I leave an eighth as well as making sure my tenons are grooved to allow excess glue to squeeze out.

good luck,
JeffD

[glenn bradley]

Yes. I also score the cheeks to avoid hydraulic lock during assembly.

[Marc Seguin]

I don't have near the experience these others have, but in the mortises I have done I've left 1/8" of extra depth.

[roger wiegand]

Likewise, though as much for insurance that I can make the joint tight as for glue space. For better or worse, I seldom get that perfect piston fit on all sides and corners that would make it completely impossible for glue to escape. The mortising chisel leaves some scratches and scrapes on the sides of the mortise and I don't generally go back and make them perfect.

[Jim Dwight]

Yes and I also leave a little room at the ends of the mortise so the glue has a path to escape. The space at the bottom is for several things. Sometimes small pieces of wood are shaved off when you insert the tenon for final assembly. They need somewhere to go. I don't always tighten the clamps all the way on test fits so a little extra space also helps to ensure the tenon doesn't bottom out. Just seems like the cheeks are what holds the joint so they need to be tight and the other areas less so.

[jack forsberg]

on flat bottom mortises with no shoulders on the tenon no i don't leave a space. the bottom become the shoulders for that type joint. On the chain mortiser and the chisel mortiser i do. I leave the smallest amount of space on the swing chisel Maka. all three have different bottoms to deal with. Its best to leave very little in gap for spiral fluted dowels as the bottom injects glue back up from the bottom into the flutes . this helps swell that end and they hold better.

[Peter Quinn]

I leave about 1/16" unless they are in a leg where they touch at a miter in the points, then I keep them back maybe 1/32"? I like to undercut the inside edge of the shoulders a bit too so I don't get lots of squeeze out to clean around the show edge, I guess the clearance at the bottom is actually squeeze in....unless I use so much glue that it has to come out. The. It's just a mess.

[scott vroom]

How much glue, and do you brush it on the tenon, mortise, or both?

[jack forsberg]

How much glue, and do you brush it on the tenon, mortise, or both?
Scott i like to add glue as a lube to both parts. Here is how we do it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kHlvmseVFc&list=PLrGUwFtKG85RHPPO-CMCzkBMHc8xq4xLs

[Chris Padilla]

What kinda glue are you using, Jack? Mine would have skinned over by now! LOL

[jack forsberg]

What kinda glue are you using, Jack? Mine would have skinned over by now! LOL

type III not thinned with water chris

[John TenEyck]

Scott, it depends, but usually I leave about 1/32" gap at the bottom of the mortise. I also, score the tenon so the glue can come back up if it wants to. I mostly use loose tenons so this is an easy process; I just run them over the TS blade in a couple of spots to create shallow score lines. And I also put glue both in the mortise and on the tenon, using a brush or Rockler silicone paddle. It doesn't take much glue, but I want to make sure both surfaces are pre-wetted to better assure a good bond.

John

[jack forsberg]

Scott, it depends, but usually I leave about 1/32" gap at the bottom of the mortise. I also, score the tenon so the glue can come back up if it wants to. I mostly use loose tenons so this is an easy process; I just run them over the TS blade in a couple of spots to create shallow score lines. And I also put glue both in the mortise and on the tenon, using a brush or Rockler silicone paddle. It doesn't take much glue, but I want to make sure both surfaces are pre-wetted to better assure a good bond.

John
good point john that only loose are easy to make score in the tenons in.

[scott vroom]

Scott i like to add glue as a lube to both parts. Here is how we do it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kHlvmseVFc&list=PLrGUwFtKG85RHPPO-CMCzkBMHc8xq4xLs


Jack, that's some nice teamwork there.

[Leo Graywacz]

Aren't there suppose to be panels in whatever those were being glued up?

[Dave Zellers]

Aren't there suppose to be panels in whatever those were being glued up?
I'm trying to figure that out too, but given that there were about 7 others in the stack, I'm guessing not.

Still don't know what those grooves are for tho...

[Mel Fulks]

Leo, I'm gonna guess a spline goes in the groove to support a wide applied moulding that will overlap on both sides of door onto panels.

[jack forsberg]

Leo, I'm gonna guess a spline goes in the groove to support a wide applied moulding that will overlap on both sides of door onto panels.

Mel's got it right. Its a full bead moulding that can't be coped. 2 panels back to back with foil between them.

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/wadkin/001-2_zpsce8ed31d.jpg (http://s927.photobucket.com/user/tool613/media/wadkin/001-2_zpsce8ed31d.jpg.html)

[scott vroom]

Not really on topic but I just spent some time checking out Jack's photobucket link to what appears to be his collection of old iron eye candy. Wow!