Floating Floor to Tile Transition

[Rich Riddle]

Any Ideas on how to transition from a floating floor to tile (stone)? One cannot adhere the transition piece to the floating floor because it would then not be floating. Lots of videos show all other transitions but not this variety. It seems like it would need to be a T molding that doesn't contact fully on the floating floor side. The tile and floating floor are already installed by the way....

[Tom M King]

Are they flush, and how big is the gap?

[William A Johnston]

You could use the T molding and use a high quality silicone just on the tile side

[keith micinski]

Are you not going to put a single thing on whatever room the floating floor is going to be in? No table, chairs, appliances, furniture? A transition piece on a floating floor will not be an issue.

[Randy Bonella]

I did exactly what you are asking about with my floating floor. My tile had a nice clean edge to it and the transition wasn't all that much so instead of a "T" I used a shaped transition that butted against the tile and then with a rabbit for the floating floor side. My floor type had pre-made moldings just for this purpose. I glued the molding to the floor with flooring adhesive and it worked great. If the edge of the tile is messy then I'd suggest a T as others have. I wouldn't use silicon though, use floor adhesive to mount the transition directly to the floor only don't put adhesive on the tile side or the floating floor side. I'll see if I can snap some pictures later.

Randy...

[Rich Riddle]

Are you not going to put a single thing on whatever room the floating floor is going to be in? No table, chairs, appliances, furniture? A transition piece on a floating floor will not be an issue.
That is contrary advice to what every opinion of craftsman who lay these floors indicate.

[Rich Riddle]

Randy, are you suggesting to only place the adhesive on the bottom of the T molding?

[Mike Schuch]

I started with a T molding and hated the look. I figured I would try some caulking that matched the grout between the tile and engineered flooring.. That was 4 years ago and the caulking is still in place and hasn't developed any gaps. I have engineered hickory flooring which is about 20 feet across the grain and 40 with the grain. Both the tile and the engineered hickory are heated. The surface of the engineered flooring is about 1/32 below the surface of the tile.

[keith micinski]

That is contrary advice to what every opinion of craftsman who lay these floors indicate.
I guess I wasn't clear enough. Millions of floating floors in a kitchen have a 400 pound refrigerator sitting on top of them and not a single floor has failed because of it. Putting a transition piece over a doorway will not cause a problem whatsoever. That floor may float over the existing floor but what it doesnt do is move all over the place. Holding one end from a doorway in a stationary position won't cause an issue and I don't care what "Craftsman" say.

[Randy Bonella]

Hi Rich
Yes, that was the instructions from the flooring people glue only the bottom of the transition to the floor. Creates a clean joint at the tile and allows the floating floor to float. The transition between the floating floor and the tile is about 1/4" rise. The tile side is butt joint without any glue or caulk. the Floating floor side is under the transition in a rabbit joint that allows the floor to move. I have something similar around the staircase that allows the floor to float and move around with seasons. Not sure why these pictures got rotated though. For some reason they got uploaded upside down. Not sure how to fix that

308444308445

[Rich Riddle]

Randy,

Your explanation and photos made the job possible. Thanks for offering that advise along with the photos. Thanks to all the productive folks who helped.

[Lee Schierer]

I realize your job is finished, but I made my own T moldings for all our transition pieces. I attached them to the sub floor with finish nails in holes drilled down through the leg of the T and countersunk below the surface. I filled the holes with wood putty and have never had a problem. I even pulled one of them up and reused it when we had new carpet put in.

[Rich Riddle]

Lee, I suppose one could drill into the concrete pad (subfloor) and place dowels (which was done) Haven't secured the transition strips yet so nailing is possible into the dowels. I was considering using screws and plugs, but that would make it quite permanent where your option would allow one to remove it in the future if needed. Thanks for that advice.

[mike mcilroy]

I had the same issue with to floating floors at different levels. I used a piece of oak with two different depth rabbets and screws and plugs made of face grain to match. If you look youcan find them. Any issues drill them out just a little undersized and take the screws out.

[Randy Bonella]

These other methods are great ways to do it as well. Hopefully I won't ever have to change it out cause mine is as close to permanent as one gets. I didn't really consider the option for future changes. Good luck. The floating floor has a really nice feel under the foot. Also helps a bit with sound deadening between floors.

Randy...