Scratch Stocks vs Hollows/Rounds?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys.
I want to make about a 6 ft length of poplar molding that will be less than 1/2" on each side (probably closer to 1/4"). Im thinking a simple cove with a fillet on each side. I can do this in 10 mins on my router table and bandsaw, including setup. But Id like to use it as an excuse to learn a few more skills. (I dont care if it takes me an extra month to finish this table.) I think I could do this with either a small "round" molding plane or a scratch stock.

So here's my question: What are the reasons to choose one versus the other? Especially in this soft wood.

Some backstory: Things Ive read seem to say that scratch stocks can be quite useful. They look simple and relatively fast to make. I think I could prep the molding beforehand by cutting a small rabbet to reduce the amount of material to be "scratched off". But I do want to try hollows and rounds sometime as well. Right now, I dont own either but I could make the plane (fun in itself perhaps?), buy a plane if I can find a used one soon or make the scratch stock.

As always, thanks for teaching me.
Fred

[Mike Brady]

I think you could do that in that wood. Six feet is a practical length to scratch if you just take your time. You need the spring steel, of course. Perhaps you could use a paint scraper blade or card scraper in a thick gauge. Sharpen that profile well and try to burnish the edge like a scraper. The beaded panel in the photo is poplar.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/IMG_0068_zps14f20fc5.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/IMG_0068_zps14f20fc5.jpg.html)

[Richard Hutchings]

That's a great looking tool and the resulting bead is perfect. You're obviously very detail oriented judging by the look of the block of wood. How did you make the round cut out?

[Frederick Skelly]

I think you could do that in that wood. Six feet is a practical length to scratch if you just take your time. You need the spring steel, of course. Perhaps you could use a paint scraper blade or card scraper in a thick gauge. Sharpen that profile well and try to burnish the edge like a scraper. The beaded panel in the photo is poplar.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/IMG_0068_zps14f20fc5.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/IMG_0068_zps14f20fc5.jpg.html)

Thanks Mike. I appreciate the advice. I'll give 'er a try then.
Fref

[Mike Brady]

I filed that profile with a chainsaw file, which is a straight cylinder; not tapered. Luckily I had a round, tapered diamond hone that made the polishing easier. You could use the shank of a small drill bit as a burnisher. Scratch stocks work well but can be a bit tiring if you have much profiling to do. I'm not sure I would want to do beaded tongue and groove panels with one. By the way, grain direction, as long as it was long-grain doesn't seem to make a difference, and you can push or pull. I'm not sure about cross-grain.

[Jim Matthews]

Remember that you do this with a broad board, and rip it down to width.
Doing this with something narrow will result in a bead that 'rotates' down the long axis.

The extra width keeps the board from twisting, under load.
DAMHIKT

[Frederick Skelly]

Remember that you do this with a broad board, and rip it down to width.
Doing this with something narrow will result in a bead that 'rotates' down the long axis.

The extra width keeps the board from twisting, under load.
DAMHIKT

Got it. Thanks Jim!