Pipe for 1" tool post?

[Justin Stephen]

My current tool platform they I use in my banjo is based on a 1" piece of wooden dowel. After many instances of the locking lever being pressed into the dowel, it is on its last legs. I had the bright idea of just using some 3/4" pipe with a threaded end and a threaded flange to mount my platform (i.e., whatever small piece of plywood I have around that isn't too chewed up). Alas, it looks like the nominal outer diameter of typical 3/4" pipe is enough above 1" that it won't fit into my Powermatic banjo.

Can anyone suggest an alternative, preferably something I can mount some sort of a flange on? Thanks!

[charlie knighton]

how about a dowel

[Scott Hackler]

I wonder what the OD of 1" plastic pipe is? If it is close, you can easily turn it down to 1".

[Thomas Canfield]

Steel tubing s available in 1" OD but not sure of where you can find it and if wall thickness would be satisfactory. Check McMaster Carr for tubing and also for 1" D bar stock. A local welding or machine shop can possibly be a source for 1" D material.

[Marvin Hasenak]

Go to a hardware store and buy a 6 inch long 1-8TPI bolt. Get a block of hardwood wood, about 3x3 x2 will do, drill and tap the center for the 1-8TPI bolt. Turn block round then glue and screw to your plywood platform. Insert bolt and cut to desired length.

Need more than one custom platform, repeat the wood part and use the same bolt for the tool post. A bolt that size is not cheap, but a few dollars goes a long way and fits the bill perfectly. Don't forget to CA glue the threads so they won't strip out as easy, and don't forget to wait until the CA is dry before screwing the bolt into the threads.

[James Combs]

I can usually figure out what someone is talking about in these threads but for this one I am at a loss. I think I have figured out that a tool "platform" is not the same as a tool "rest" but beyond that I am befuddled. To me a banjo is used to hold a tool rest(or to dual with a guitar). I can't vision any reason to put a "wooden" dowel in it. Can you provide a photo and maybe some explanatory text as to what is being talked about?:confused::o

[Marvin Hasenak]

I have no clue what the OP uses his platform for, but I am disabled so I use mine as a small work tables right at my lathe. I make game calls, small items that require adding reeds, metal bands and other things to make them functional. These little platforms/tables are set up for each step of my process. I can reach them from my stool and go to the next step without ever leaving my stool.

I have one that has a clip on it that holds sandpaper with a holder for a small bottle of oil finish for wet sanding. I also carve while the item is on the lathe spindle, I have another platform/table that has a rack for my chisels, files and sandpaper system and leather hone. If putting on bands, I have my drill, bands, pins etc., already on one table. Once I get set up, I can sit on my stool and do everything from start to finish without moving to another location. For me that means I can last a lot longer playing without having to take a break. For most people walking 5 feet to another location is nothing, for me, I have to get my walker, load my stuff and move, then unload and do it again for the next step. These little tables are within an arms reach, ready to go.

[robert baccus]

A 1" piece of dogwood or any very hard wood with a bandsawed curved tapered tip makes a great tool rest for crowded places. Such as parting off bowl bottoms from or parting anything. They last many years.

[Eric Gourieux]

I'm with James. I'm not sure what is being discussed. Please enlighten us.

[cody michael]

with a few minutes you a grinder you could make the pipe fit? if you worried about wall thickness you could always turn down a dowel so it fits tightly in the metal pipe, so the pipe protects it from the screw, but wood stops it from denting.

I have made tools rests from bar stock from the local metal place, if I needed something like this I would weld a piece of round bar stock the correct diameter to a piece of steel plate

[Justin Stephen]

I can usually figure out what someone is talking about in these threads but for this one I am at a loss. I think I have figured out that a tool "platform" is not the same as a tool "rest" but beyond that I am befuddled. To me a banjo is used to hold a tool rest(or to dual with a guitar). I can't vision any reason to put a "wooden" dowel in it. Can you provide a photo and maybe some explanatory text as to what is being talked about?:confused::o

Sorry, here is a pic of what I am talking about:

308296

I use this as a base to slide a trim router across for incising and also as a quick-and-dirty indexing platform. The post is a cheap Home Depot wooden dowel, which is what I am trying to improve upon.

[Justin Stephen]

Steel tubing s available in 1" OD but not sure of where you can find it and if wall thickness would be satisfactory. Check McMaster Carr for tubing and also for 1" D bar stock. A local welding or machine shop can possibly be a source for 1" D material.

Yes, thanks. www.onlinemetals.com sells a variety of "mild steel" steel tubing in whatever length and wall thickness one wants that is supposedly true 1" OD, but they don't do threading. Obviously, I could just have it threaded myself somewhere but was looking to avoid the trouble I guess.

[Michael Mills]

If you have a small grinder (4.5") with a sanding plate take a section of your 3/4 pipe and mount on your lathe with a sacrificial wood cone in the live center. Takes about 2 minutes to bring it down to 1" exterior. Leave the threads good on one end and get a flange mount to fit.
The flange will already have four holes for mounting under your wood plate/base.

You can do it with a file rather than a grinder but it takes more time.

[Justin Stephen]

If you have a small grinder (4.5") with a sanding plate take a section of your 3/4 pipe and mount on your lathe with a sacrificial wood cone in the live center. Takes about 2 minutes to bring it down to 1" exterior. Leave the threads good on one end and get a flange mount to fit.
The flange will already have four holes for mounting under your wood plate/base.

You can do it with a file rather than a grinder but it takes more time.

Yup, thanks, already have pretty much that exact flange. They sell them at the Borgs. I think I might do exactly what you suggested. It seems easier than trying to have pipe threaded and I do own a grinder. The listed nominal OD of 3/4" steel pipe is only about 1.05", so I shouldn't have too much to remove if that is accurate.

[James Combs]

Sorry, here is a pic of what I am talking about:

308296

I use this as a base to slide a trim router across for incising and also as a quick-and-dirty indexing platform. The post is a cheap Home Depot wooden dowel, which is what I am trying to improve upon.
Thanks, as soon as you mentioned router the light came on.:rolleyes::D

[Michael Mills]

After I posted I thought about the sacrificial wood cone for the tailstock. I would probably be easier to just drill a 1" hole in a small block of wood to force thread the pipe into and use your standard point on the live center against the wood.

[Michael J Evans]

im not familiar with the application that your using this for but if you just want actual 1" OD tubing, i can get whatever length you'd need from my work. we have 3/8" to 11/2" OD hydraulic carbon steel tubing we sell and i believe the thickest wall we carry the 1" is .120 wall which is pretty dam stout. might even have it in stainless.
as far as getting it threaded i might have a 3/4" npt die that might work( would have to double check dimensions) i can check tomorrow.otherwise we could probably weld a 1"npt bushing on it let me know how much you need and if its small enough i might be able to get a piece outta the remnant pile and its yours for price of postage.

just seen the pics of what your using it for. ( i should read all post's before replying) we might be able to weld a steel plate on it... anyway let me know if your interested.

[Justin Stephen]

Thanks much, Michael. I am going to try just grinding down the pipe I have first and see if that will work since it won't cost me anything to try and I have the equipment. If that doesn't work, I may take you up on your offer.

[Dale Winburn]

Use a 1" x 6" long bolt with 1" x 8tpi as Marvin (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?10402-Marvin-Hasenak) suggests, screw a 1" x 8tpi face plate on to the bolt and mount the plywood platform on top of the face plate.

[Thom Sturgill]

I buy 1" ID 1/8" sidewall aluminum tubing for tool handles. I cover the handles with 1 3/8" OD vinyl tubing and use 3/4" rod inside drilled to hold the specific size needed. That tubing would also work for a post - just use 3/4" wood dowel inside screwed to the plate on top and preventing the tube from collapsing under the pressure from the post clamp. Aluminum is easy to turn if needed.

Online metals - cold rolled 1" bar in random 10-12" length $10.03 + shipping. I'd check local machine shops for cut-offs.

[James Tibbetts]

Turning the pipe down sounds good, but I know what it would look like if I held it to the grinder. For me a much more accurate finish would come from chucking it in the lathe and holding a file to it.

[Robert Willing]

One word of caution when selecting a pipe flange. Make sure you select a pipe nipple and put it on the pipe and roll it on a flat surface to make sure the flange has been threaded straight (perpendicular to the base). My experience has been about 10% are not perpendicular to the base.