Working with Melamine

[Scott Brandstetter]

I'm looking to make a desk top out of Melamine (sp) and wondering what the best way is to join two pieces. In the drawing the orange line is where I plan to join two pieces. The arrow on the right is pointing to a curve I want to put into the top. With regards to the curve, would you cut that out of a large sheet making it part of the main top or make a small curve and then attach to the two pieces that make the top. Hope this makes sense.

In the end, want to get a smooth desk top where the pieces meet.

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[Ian Scofield]

Are you wanting to permanently join them or just have a seam that disappears when it's assembled, but can disassemble for future moving?

[Scott Brandstetter]

I want to permanently join them. Was thinking of simply using the kreg jig but I don't always get a good smooth joint when I use it.

[Dan Hintz]

HOW smooth? My desk looks essentially like that, but it has seams where your red arrows are... cuts down on melamine usage/waste. I can feel the seam with my fingers, but it's pretty darn flat... even writing on a piece of paper while straddling the seam doesn't show any artifacts in the text.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Dan, what method did you use to join the sheets? I am not looking for perfection, what you describe is fine with me. On another note, in regards to waste, cost, I am thinking of making the surface 24 inches deep. Think that is too shallow?


HOW smooth? My desk looks essentially like that, but it has seams where your red arrows are... cuts down on melamine usage/waste. I can feel the seam with my fingers, but it's pretty darn flat... even writing on a piece of paper while straddling the seam doesn't show any artifacts in the text.

[Dan Hintz]

Dan, what method did you use to join the sheets? I am not looking for perfection, what you describe is fine with me. On another note, in regards to waste, cost, I am thinking of making the surface 24 inches deep. Think that is too shallow?

The seams are held together underneath with two 2" square metal plates (4 screws per plate)... other than the knee plate / support board underneath, that's all. Keeps the two pieces level with respect to each other.

[William A Johnston]

Have you thought of overlaying ur top with laminate? If one leg is no more than 60" and the other no more than 144" it will have no seams. Wilson Art laminate offers a "Perma Edge" which can be added so you don't see the black line on the edge. Its available in bullnose, crescent and bevel. They also have a perfect match color wise to melamine or u can pick a custom color. There are a lot of new colors in their high definition line that has texture and colors like a natural stone. Perma edge comes in 12' lengths. Melamine is essentially a laminate without the hard coating.

[Mike Wilkins]

I do not remember the name of these fasteners, but use the ones for jointing laminated kitchen countertops. Simply rout a recess for the fastener, lay the counters face up, crawl under the assembly and tighten them up. Just slide the counter against the walls and Bob's your uncle.

[Jerome Stanek]

I used to install lots of tops and this is what we used to draw them together

http://www.kitchensource.com/supports-brackets/ha-262.93.952.htm

[Jamie Buxton]

.. On another note, in regards to waste, cost, I am thinking of making the surface 24 inches deep. Think that is too shallow?..

No, for a corner computer desk, 18" depth would work. Try mocking it up. On a big surface -- maybe your dining table, maybe just a sheet of plywood -- lay out the stuff you expect to put on your desk top -- displays, keyboard, mouse, whatever. Lay out where the desk top edges would be with different depths. See what you need.

[Jamie Buxton]

Your instinct to support the desk, especially under the seam between the two sheet of melamine, is good. But doing it with a post, as you show in your drawing, is just going to get in your way. Consider instead a big angle bracket like Fastcap's Speedbrace (http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Speed-Brace-4p2457.htm). You won't whack your knees on it, and it can support a huge load. It even has holes for cables.

[Chris Padilla]

There are a few choices in hardware (http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=199-048&LARGEVIEW=ON) used to draw countertops together.

[Jeff Duncan]

Melamine is not a great material for seams. Personally I would put the seam as far to the right as possible….or as far from the main working area as you can. It's great for a lot of things, and can have decent wear as a work surface. But once you put a seam in that's where your going to have premature wear.

good luck,
JeffD