Peter Keen
02-23-2015, 10:35 PM
I'm building a chest of drawers out of walnut - a repeat of Glen Huey's Line and Berry Chest of Drawers. I don't like some of the features of the original, so I'm making a webframe. The webframe is built by having the stretchers, which will ultimately have a double bead moulding applied, attached to the solid walnut sides, using sliding dovetails.
The front and rear stretchers will be 2" wide. The runners will be attached to them using mortise and tenon joints. The front mortise and tenon will be joined, the rear will be free to move. Both the front and rear stretchers will be glued into position.
How long should I cut the sliding dovetails?
As I am using a router, the end of the sliding dovetail socket inside the cabinet will be rounded. Should I cut them slightly too short, and then pare the pin to permit it to rest against the back of the socket, thereby preventing unnecessary movement, or should I cut them slightly too long - less work, easier fit, but it means that the only thing preventing the socket from being pushed back is the glue joining the dovetail to the tenon.
So - how long should I cut the dovetail sockets?
The front and rear stretchers will be 2" wide. The runners will be attached to them using mortise and tenon joints. The front mortise and tenon will be joined, the rear will be free to move. Both the front and rear stretchers will be glued into position.
How long should I cut the sliding dovetails?
As I am using a router, the end of the sliding dovetail socket inside the cabinet will be rounded. Should I cut them slightly too short, and then pare the pin to permit it to rest against the back of the socket, thereby preventing unnecessary movement, or should I cut them slightly too long - less work, easier fit, but it means that the only thing preventing the socket from being pushed back is the glue joining the dovetail to the tenon.
So - how long should I cut the dovetail sockets?