Assmebly table input requested

[Carl Weber]

All I am about to build an assembly table and was wondering what others have done. Space in not really an issue. I plan on building it 49 x 97 (MDF dia.) and about 28" high to the table top. I will attach a drawing. Please let me know any experiences thoughts you might have on this matter. Thank you in advance.

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[Keith Weber]

My assembly table is a second hand Southworth scissor lift table that I've yet to find the time to get around to making a torsion box top for. It's on the list, which is a very long list, mind you. My thoughts were that I could vary the height depending on what I'm working on.

I looked at your design, and my concern would be sag over time on an 8-foot span. Being that the legs go all the way up to the top, I'm making the assumption that it is not a torsion box top, but rather a single sheet of MDF on a wooden support grid. I'd consider adding two more legs in the middle, or make a storage cabinet base out of 3/4" ply, which would add more support. Even then, I'd probably still make it a 6-legger given the 8-foot length.

[Mike Schuch]

It is nice to have a built in 90 degree guide on two perpendicular top edges. This makes it a lot easier to assemble face frames and keep them square without having to pull out a framing square every two minutes.

It would also be nice to have a good reference 90 degree guide from horizontal to vertical with a nice wood working vice on the vertical plane.

I would also recommend having enough overhang on the edges to be able to clamp in a fair distance from the edge.

Holes for bench dogs / hold down clamps? You would probably need one or two sheets of 3/4" plywood under the mdf to give the dogs/clamps enough table depth to bite into.

Easy accessible bar clamp storage under the table?

Adjustable feet to level the top?

I always thought the perfect assembly table would be an old optical bench with the aluminum top drilled and tapped every 1".

I would also consider how to keep glue squeeze-out from sticking to the mdf top.

[Loren DeShon]

I built the portable assembly table from the October 2011 issue of Wood Magazine (http://www.woodstore.net/plans/shop-plans/workbenches/598-Fold-Flat-3-in-1-Workbench.html). I sized it for my space and have been very happy with it.

I put a melamine top in it and inlet it for Rockler t-track, which I also like.

Good luck.

[Justin Ludwig]

28" is too short for me, but I'm 6'3". Make sure your back is comfortable working at that height. I would inset the legs 4" both directions for corner clamping capability. Laminate or multiple coats of polyurethane on the top will help durability (and glue squeeze out).

[Jim Dwight]

My assembly tables are about 1/4 shorter than my table saw and are used for outfeed support. I threw one away when I moved and now need to build another. Space is an issue for me and I am planning a 3 foot by 6 foot table with drawers under it on rolling, locking casters. The top will be of the Paulk configuration (google Ron Paulk) and may be removable for use outside the shop on saw horses. I like Ron's ideas. He has a bunch of u-tube videos showing how to make and use his stuff.

[Carl Weber]

Thank you for all the great input. I may need to make some changes. I was thinking the top to be (2) sheets of 3/4" MDF for the top with 2" x 4" supports spanning the short distance... every 15 (ish) inches. But I did not take in the consideration of clamping to the table. I should have thought of that as I do it all the time on my temporary assembly table (Extension table for my saw). Well I Will have to do some touch up on the drawing. Also I planned on using Brown construction paper to avoid glue squeeze out. I like the Idea of a few coats of poly on the top.

[Jim Becker]

The single most important advice I'll give you relative to an assembly table is that you will be best served long-term if it's height adjustable...unless you only make one kind of thing which would be unusual. Adjustable height, no matter how you pull that off, will make for a more comfortable and efficient working environment as you pull your projects together. And sometimes "simple" is best. Using four rectangular boxes for supporting a torsion box surface makes for three separate heights that can be tailored to your project types and it also makes it easy to put the assembly-assembly, as it were, away when you really need that floor space for a big project or other purposes.

You'll note I mentioned a torsion box surface. Why? Flat is very, very important for assembly and that's the best way to get there without a huge amount of weight.

[Jim Andrew]

I used a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table as the base for my assembly table. So I can raise or lower it as needed when I am assemblying boxes. Found I can put a chair next to it, and lower the table to make it right for assembling drawers. Made the top about 3' wide, and about 7' long. Used some heavy T track on 2 edges to use with Kreg clamps assembling face frames. Found a site on ebay that sells the heavy extrusions.

[Carl Weber]

The advice is awesome. But that means a redesign. All the replies made are spot on. I think I have a good idea for the adjustable height. I will have to draw it up. Once I have it drawn I will post for additional .....advise.

[Don Jarvie]

I have my table in the center of the shop attached to the TS so it serves as my outfeed table also. Since my shop is 20x20 I don't have a ton of room. It's basically 6x8 with 2 sheets of MDF for a top.

To add storage I built cabinets underneath the table and installed outlets on each side for power tools. I also ran power to my TS. I have a wood floor so it was easy to do.

[Carl Weber]

I have an extension table on my TS also and I am using it for an assembly table.....and I have to move everything when I need to make a cut.... so it is time to use more floor space. I have the luxury of a bit more room as my shop is 30x40 purpose built. I am in the process of setting everything up now.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Carl
I am getting ready to build an assembly table as well so I have "lurked" on this thread. In regards to the adjustable height, I am thinking about using the harbor freight hydraulic table lift as the means to get the table adjustable. Will have to modify the release handle (I'm think 10 speed bike brake cable) and the foot step to raise the table (black pipe or something similar). Just thought I'd pass this idea on to you.

[Carl Weber]

Scott. I am thinking of making a scissors mechanism moved by a linear actuator (have a few laying around). I am thinking this will be pretty easy to pull off. (alot cheaper also). it will have a forward and reverse to raise and lower. I am working on a drawing for this.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Carl, will be very interested to see your drawings. I am all about easier and cheaper. Another tip, I went ahead and ordered a couple of cabinet vises from Grizzly. I have to say that these things are massive. I'm not sure what makes one vise better than another but holy cow, these seem great, especially for the price. I plan to put one on the short and long sides of table.

[Randy Red Bemont]

Here’s what I did in my last shop. I used a full sheet (49” x 97”) of 1” MDF and all other parts were soft maple. I built my finished table height at just under my table saw height so it could be used as an extension table too if needed. My tabletop overhung the legs by 3” all around. The legs were connected with stretchers about 7 ½” wide. I installed several cross stretchers also. This table was solid. This table could support any furniture project that I would assemble on top of it. I wish I still had that table today.


Red

[Yonak Hawkins]

I have an extension table on my TS also and I am using it for an assembly table.....and I have to move everything when I need to make a cut.... so it is time to use more floor space. I have the luxury of a bit more room as my shop is 30x40 purpose built. I am in the process of setting everything up now.

Carl, my solution for the problem of having to off-load all the stuff from my outfeed table to use the saw is that I have several smaller tables on casters. When I need an outfeed table I roll one up to the back of the saw and put on the brakes. When I need a large assembly table I clamp two of three of them together.

[glenn bradley]

As others have said, for me an adjustable height is required because I make so many different things. I designed a 2 height platform but then migrated to a torsion beam system. I bought a couple of adjustable height saw horses at the BORG, modified them so that the maximum height is now what the minimum height used to be, added levelers to one set of feet and use the beams similar to those shown int American Woodworker magazine IIRC.

This sort of gives you the idea:

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[William C Rogers]

I built my table specifically to build my kitchen cabinets. One thing I did was to put 1" aluminum angle all the way around except leaving the corners open to sweep sawdust and dirt. I have 3/4" plywood topped with 3/4" MDF. I sandwiched the angle between them leaving 1/4" above the table. I made sure the angle was square. This made it easy to build the face frames square and doors square. I initally built this just go make my cabinets, however it keeps things from falling off and provides a square and straight edge. Maybe not for everyone, but I like it. There are a few times it gets in the way, but to me benefits out weigh the negatives.

[Carl Weber]

Scott, I have attached a rough drawing of what I was thinking of. I am going mock it up and see if the lift works and make a few tweaks. If it works I will build it. The linear actuators are from an old hospital bed and they should be more then powerful enough to lift the table and a couple of hundred pounds on it.

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[Carl Weber]

All, I have made a quick drawing on new thoughts of an adjustable assembly table. It is a bit rough so please do not pick the drawing apart too much. You can pick that design apart all you would like.

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[Scott Brandstetter]

Carl, appreciate the drawing. I haven't considered this idea but I am intrigued. So I looked on craigslist and low and behold, a hospital bed. At first I thought, well I only need the motor and a few parts but then got to thinking, why not make the bed the base of the entire bed the base for my assembly table. Does this sound crazy? Picture attached. I was planning to build my table 48 x 96 since I have the room.

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I built my table specifically to build my kitchen cabinets. One thing I did was to put 1" aluminum angle all the way around except leaving the corners open to sweep sawdust and dirt. I have 3/4" plywood topped with 3/4" MDF. I sandwiched the angle between them leaving 1/4" above the table. I made sure the angle was square. This made it easy to build the face frames square and doors square. I initally built this just go make my cabinets, however it keeps things from falling off and provides a square and straight edge. Maybe not for everyone, but I like it. There are a few times it gets in the way, but to me benefits out weigh the negatives.

[Carl Weber]

Scott, you could use the base. That would eliminate having to build one. I have just the actuators that I have collected in my scavenging. I plan on doing a build on the scissors and make modifications to it as I go. I expect to add a few things to the roller sections (on the base and the table top) to prevent the scissors action from lifting. I have used some lego's mindstorm to mock this up. I am even considering lowering the pivot point to allow for a greater height with less movement of the linear actuator. But will have to make sure there is enough power to lift the table and anything that is on top of it. I will be updating my drawings as I start to refine my thoughts and design.

[Greg Hines, MD]

When I have the space, I will build an assembly table like the one from the New Yankee Workshop. I put my regular workbench on casters like that and it works very well for moving it around when I need to. I will also size it to be able to act as outfeed for the table saw or other tools.

Doc

[Jim Dwight]

My last one had the drop down casters from Norm's design and I didn't really like it. The table was pretty lightly constructed, his plywood legs, etc. but it was still kind of heavy to raise and lower. My floor seems to always have little scraps on it and it would sometime interfere with the wheels coming down. It worked but I didn't like it a lot. My next one will be really heavy with drawers for tool storage but it will have 3 inch fully locking casters. I have them on my table saw and like that better. No picking things up and it rolls better over scraps, cords, etc..

[Von Bickley]

My out-feed table also serves as my assembly table. My only suggestion would be to have several electrical outlets mounted on the table for sanders and electrical hand-tools.

[Carl Weber]

Thank you guys for all the great suggestions. I am starting to get a vision of my new assembly table and I must say it is not much like what I envisioned when I started. Which is why I ask for opinions in the first place. I figured I was missing a bunch of great ideas. For me space is not much of a problem. So I plan on making a dedicated assembly table (I have an outfeed table and another table on wheels I can use as one). So it sounds like it will be adjustable in height, The only thing I have not decided on is the hold down for the center of the table. Not sure if I want holes for hold downs on the table. I like the idea of a flat surface.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Thank you guys for all the great suggestions. I am starting to get a vision of my new assembly table and I must say it is not much like what I envisioned when I started. Which is why I ask for opinions in the first place. I figured I was missing a bunch of great ideas. For me space is not much of a problem. So I plan on making a dedicated assembly table (I have an outfeed table and another table on wheels I can use as one). So it sounds like it will be adjustable in height, The only thing I have not decided on is the hold down for the center of the table. Not sure if I want holes for hold downs on the table. I like the idea of a flat surface.

For my regular workbench, I have it perforated with bench dog holes, but I also drilled 4 larger holes in the center. Beneath each of these is a pipe flange. This allows me to use a short pipe nipple (6-12") and a deep throat pipe clamp head as a very secure hold down when I need it.

Doc

[Jim Andrew]

Kreg has plates you can router into your table if you want a hold down in the middle. I have a couple plates I plan to install when I decide where I want them. You use the t track clamps as the hold down.

[Ray Newman]

It has been now more than a few years ago that I fabricated the New Yankee Workshop out feed table that does double duty as an assembly table. Sized it fit to space needs and it has served me well. The fold up wheel design has been a gawd send when I need to turn the table to fully support a 96" plyw'd rip cut or move it about the shop. As Von Bickley did, I mounted electrical boxes two corners so as to have power.

[Ed Aumiller]

When I made my dining room chairs... needed a very flat surface to assemble them on...
Decided to make a David Marks torsion box, then made it variable height...
Very similar to what you are thinking of doing except used air cylinders to take it up / down (already had them)...
Here is link to video and pictures of it.....
woodweb.com/galleries/shopbuilt/posts/57.html

[Ray Newman]

Ed A.: That is slick!

[Bill Adamsen]

I love that you did drawings. It makes it so much easier to understand your ideas.

Lots of keen observations already provided. The base can be significantly smaller than the top which not only allows better clamping, but facilitates several other possibly intriguing design features. A tilt top (to a position like a Ritter, Kreg, Castle FFT - implemented like an architect's drawing table) is really handy for doing face frame work, and slotted metal or wood edge guides can be "slid up" to allow quick squaring on a corner. Perhaps that could be implemented as part of your scissors mechanism (drawing #2)? Assuming this is paired with a traditional workbench, consider the torsion box with much thinner top and bottom skin to keep the weight down. I see 3/4 inch in drawing #2, but with the right internal framing, perhaps 1/4" would suffice? Adding laminate makes it "non stick", easy to remove the inevitable glue and also clean. The scissors ... pneumatic tables are great ... not sure how well we can implement that with wood. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Attached photos are of an architect's table (old technology) created by a very creative architect friend many years ago using the worm drive and gears from a greenhouse venting window. It worked beautifully and could be scaled up for a pitch adjustable table.

[Carl Weber]

Bill, I love the ideas. I have thought about using something on the edges to install or as you put it " Slide up" I like the idea of sliding them up (less of a chance of losing them in the shop). Also I will be working on the scissors mech. When I have built something I will post what I did. As far as the top thickness. weight is not much of an issue and I would not want to go too thin as I plan on clamping to it and would hate to pull a clamp through a 1/4" material. 1/2" might be an option. But with 3/4" I could route a T-track in in I wanted to add clamping in the middle.

Love the drafting table. The mechanism is beautiful. I would love to come across a few of them. Not sure what I would do with them but would love to have a few.

[Carl Weber]

Ed, That is very nice. I am going to try to make the scissors out of wood...but if that does not work so steel will be in my future.

[Rick Potter]

I have seen videos of a table that uses car scissor jacks to raise and lower. You just adjust it with a cordless drill. I believe plans are available.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have seen videos of a table that uses car scissor jacks to raise and lower. You just adjust it with a cordless drill. I believe plans are available.



The designs I have seen for this involve a box-within-a-box design with the car jack designed to raise the inner platform with the wheels on it to move it around, and then you lower it back onto its own feet/legs when you get it where you want it to be. Mostly, though, that as been for heave pieces of equipment like a shaper or router table, or maybe a multifunction cart with a grinder, sander, etc, on it.

Doc