Two questions for the membership.

[Kent E. Matthew]

1. What dowel jig would you recommend?

2. Planning a book shelf project. Every book shelf I have seen approaching three feet wide the shelves have a noticeable sag. How do I prevent this?

[jack duren]

Have been using the Craftsman dowel jig for 25yrs. Hasn't failed me yet. You could use torsion selves if your problem has been sagging.

[lowell holmes]

http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2011/03/10/doweling-jigs/

I've used some of these through the years with success.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I don't use a dowling jig, so no idea. The second one though, attach the shelves to a structural back and lead the front edge with a wider strip of hardwood. That will take care of the sagging for a pretty high load. Torsion box shelves will also do it.

[Alan Heffernan]

Stanley Number 59 Doweling Jig - made in the good old USA.

Do not use one often but when I need one, it is the one I use. I also have an older Craftsman and others, but I much prefer the Stanley and know exactly where it is. I would have to search long and hard to find the others I have. I bought the Stanley in the late 70's when they were still available.

You can still find them on ebay, antique tool sellers, and the like. Did a quick search and found one instantly for $30. Here is a borrowed image of one.

http://www.oldtools.co.uk/tools/misc1663.l.jpg

Ditto to Steve's advice on adding the strips to avoid deflection.

[Dan Rude]

If you need it for only a few then the Rockler 2 hole ones would be a economical solution. http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-8-dowel-drilling-jig-kit For a better kit get the JessEm http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71493&cat=1,180,42311,42319&ap=1 they have free shipping now too. I have the full set and real like it. Dan

[Ellen Benkin]

Try the Sagulator website to determine shelf sag http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm There are several ways to prevent sag including shorter shelves, putting a strip underneath the shelf, and/or putting a strip across the front of the shelf (structural and decorative).

[roger wiegand]

On shelves for heavy things I fully support them at the back by using a thick back and dado the shelf into the back, a vertical stile that can hold extra shelf pins, or a supporting ledge built all the way around the shelf. For the front sides a strip glued at or near the front to increase the effective thickness of the shelf does wonders. Or a vertical stile that holds a shelf pin in the center of the shelf-- the latter doesn't look good until you get to cases at least 4 ft wide or so. Using solid wood rather than plywood will also help avoid sag. Needless to say, almost nothing keeps particle board from sagging, even under its own weight.

Never use dowels , so can't help on that.

[Kent E. Matthew]

A couple of clarifications. I intend for these shelves to be adjustable. I will of course give up on that idea to avoid the sag. I already have a single Stanley jig. The Jessem jig has my attention.

Of those who stated they don't use dowel jigs what do you use?

[jack duren]

A couple of clarifications. I intend for these shelves to be adjustable. I will of course give up on that idea to avoid the sag. I already have a single Stanley jig. The Jessem jig has my attention.

Of those who stated they don't use dowel jigs what do you use?

You intend on using shelf pegs?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Of those who stated they don't use dowel jigs what do you use?

On shelves, I really like dados the best on the mid shelves and sliding dovetails top and bottom (sometimes middle on tall cabinets). If the cabinet is going to be build in place or contained from spreading, ie never moved, skip the sliding dovetails and just dado.

[scott vroom]

Don't need to give up on adjustable shelves. Do like in the pic and you'll have no sag issues. Use Sagulator as recommended above to determine how tall the edge strip needs to be for your shelf. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

[Jack Lemley]

DowelMax is top flight. I have two of them and the 1/4" inserts. My son has a Festool Domino which takes doweling/loose tenoning to a whole new level but quite a bit more expensive than the DowelMax.

Jack

[Bill Huber]

On the shelf if you put a front on them like Scott show you should be in good shape.

Now on the doweling jig, I like the Jessem Paralign, I like having the clamps right on the jig and with it you can do a lot.

Here is a thread that I posted when I got the jig.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?140404-Jessem-s-new-dowel-jig-WOW!!!!&highlight=doweling+jig

If you have any question on the jig just shoot away.

[Mike Schuch]

My very first "job" helping my father in the shop was drilling holes for dowels with the Craftsman dowel jig when I was about 7.

I used to use my Craftsman dowel jig a lot until I found a good deal on my Davis & Wells horizontal boring machine. When I occasionally need a dowel jig I still use the Craftsman. The Craftsman jig is a breeze to setup, quick to clamp, aligns things very accurately and I think I only paid $25 or so for mine off of fleabay. Best of all the jig is only one piece so there is nothing to loose!

My father put a 5/16" to 1/2" hardened steel guide in the 1/2" hole of his jig. 50+ years of use, even with a kid using it, the jig still drills perfect dowel holes.

[Jim Wheeler]

I've seldom ever used dowels if I could help it. However, when I have used them I used purpose-made jigs of hard wood ala James Krenov. The jigs require a precision boring machine of some sort to make - a drill press or horizontal boring device; I once used a drill chuck in my wood lathe. Drill through holes in a piece of hard wood of parallel top and bottom, precisely perpendicular to its surface. Glue some fence-like registration pieces onto the end and/or side so they extend past both surfaces, and then clamp it to the piece of stock you want to dowel. Drill the holes with a power or hand drill. Next turn the jig over and clamp, with its bottom up, to the other piece of stock to be doweled and repeat. The dowel holes should match up perfectly if you made the jig carefully and positioned it well.


For book case shelves resistant to sag I'd recommend solid wood boards over any kind of manufactured material like veneer core plywood or particle board, and certainly mdf would not be suitable. If you need something lightweight or inexpensive, try making them of one of the lighter, stiffer species of softwoods and cover them with veneer. Lumber core plywood works well, too, but it is neither lightweight nor inexpensive. For heavier loads glue on an edging strip as recommended by Scott Vroom and others above. You can put them on both front and rear edges if necessary.

Jim

He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!

[Harvey Miller]

If you go the homemade/Krenov way Lee Valley sells steel bushings for a more durable jig;
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32317&cat=1,180,42311

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Kent, I don't use dowells at all so I can't help on a dowell jig.

For shelves, put a front lip on them maybe 1 1\2 to 2 inches wide. It will provide a finished look and prevent sagging. Use shelf pins to prodide adjustability for the shelves.......Rod.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Don't need to give up on adjustable shelves. Do like in the pic and you'll have no sag issues. Use Sagulator as recommended above to determine how tall the edge strip needs to be for your shelf. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

Yeah - do this. FWIW - as the sagulator indicates, you can improve the performance with stronger and/or thicker shelving material.

Beyond that: My personal conclusion, over the years, was that the adjustable feature was in play only until the permanent residents of each shelf were determined - then they never again moved. So -I/we spend a little time up front to decide what the shelves are for, and I fix 'em.

It doesn't have to be item-by-item. For example - built a matched set of repro bookcases. Determined one would be for general books - history, bio, literature - stuff like that. THe other would be for art-type books - which invariably are bigger.

Built them like that, and in fairly short order their contents sorted themselves out.