Jim Goryl
02-19-2015, 3:59 PM
Hello to everyone. I am new to this group and to woodworking. I have some carpentry experience but I have not made anything I would consider to be furniture. After shopping for a dinning room table a few weeks ago, I couldn't stand to spend thousands of dollars for something I knew I could make myself and for much less (this is how most of my projects start).
Off to the local hardwood store I went. I came home with a bunch of 8/4 walnut in various widths, 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, a bunch of 1/4" walnut boards, and a gallon of Titebond II. The concept was simple, cut the plywood into squares, glue them all together and then when wrap them with the 1/4" walnut for the bases. The top required that I learn how to use a dowel jig to make sure my "good" side was relatively flat and the glue-ups were simple from there.
All-in-all, I think it's turned out pretty good so far which leads me to my next question, how do I finish this project? Here's the list I've been given by my better half of how she'd like it to look:
1) The table should have the flattest finish possible. The look of our satin finished hardwood floors I'm told would reflect too much light.
2) The table should not feel like plastic, it should still feel like wood. I made some built in benches for our mud room and finished them with poly, I then tried some wipe-on minwax lacquer on a mirror frame and coat rack. I'm told both of these finishes would not work on the table.
3) It should be maintainable. This is my requirement. I'm okay doing some light sanding and refinishing as needed as long as I can do it quickly.
4) Water/red wine/beer/whatever should not easily absorb into the table. We live in the midwest and deal with sweat rings around glasses all summer long so we don't want to have to worry about a glass that's been sitting on the table for hours.
5) We will use the table to write on, as a desk, etc so the finish should be fairly durable (I will not use the table for poker unless it's covered!)
6) I will be finishing the table in its final location
Here are the options and the pros/cons that I see for each one after doing my research.
Waterlox: Seems like everyone likes this product. My big question is does it feel like wood or "plastic" when it's done?
Pros: 1) Looks awesome on walnut
2) Will resist water stains
3) Relatively easy to touch up
Cons: 1) It stinks horribly when it's applied and after drying
2) Can be touchy to apply (I've read just about everything I could so it looks like 3 coats of Original (non low-voc) applied using Scott's shop towels, a light sanding, coat again, repeat until it looks like you want it. The final coat would be in satin)
Osmo PolyX: Not much info on this one. Seems like it's big overseas. From what I've read the finished product is supposed to feel like wood and hot be glossy at all.
Pros: 1) Supposedly it only requires 2 coats
2) Easy to apply
3) Easy to repair
Cons:
1) I read some people said it's not good for table tops
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish. Everyone seems to like this product. I couldn't really find anything bad about it. My guess is it's almost like the Osmo Polyx
Pros: 1) Easy to apply
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I could not really find any
Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Topcoat (satin). Seems similar to the Sam Maloof and Osmo products.
100% Pure Tung Oil. I'm sure the finish look and feel would pass the "wife test" but I have questions about the durability. It provides "durable water resistance" but really, what does that mean? Will that sweaty water glass that was left on the table for 3 hours leave a ring?
Pros: 1) Easy to apply (while blindfolded)
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I've read that oil will absorb into paper products long after it's been applied
2) Provides absolutely no protection for scratches, dents, dings, etc.
What I'm really looking for from everyone out there who has more experience than me with these finishes is some guidance on how well they fit what we're looking for. Please keep in mind that the only experience I have with finish work is what I learned from my hardwood floor guys - they sanded to 120, water-popped the floors, stained them, and applied poly. Right now, I've sanded the table to 120 but from the research I've done I need to work up to 220. Besides that, anything you all could provide would be greatly appreciated.
307347307348307349
The visible plywood side of the base(s) is what the table will sit on. The sides, and bottoms of the bases are all 3/4" walnut.
Off to the local hardwood store I went. I came home with a bunch of 8/4 walnut in various widths, 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, a bunch of 1/4" walnut boards, and a gallon of Titebond II. The concept was simple, cut the plywood into squares, glue them all together and then when wrap them with the 1/4" walnut for the bases. The top required that I learn how to use a dowel jig to make sure my "good" side was relatively flat and the glue-ups were simple from there.
All-in-all, I think it's turned out pretty good so far which leads me to my next question, how do I finish this project? Here's the list I've been given by my better half of how she'd like it to look:
1) The table should have the flattest finish possible. The look of our satin finished hardwood floors I'm told would reflect too much light.
2) The table should not feel like plastic, it should still feel like wood. I made some built in benches for our mud room and finished them with poly, I then tried some wipe-on minwax lacquer on a mirror frame and coat rack. I'm told both of these finishes would not work on the table.
3) It should be maintainable. This is my requirement. I'm okay doing some light sanding and refinishing as needed as long as I can do it quickly.
4) Water/red wine/beer/whatever should not easily absorb into the table. We live in the midwest and deal with sweat rings around glasses all summer long so we don't want to have to worry about a glass that's been sitting on the table for hours.
5) We will use the table to write on, as a desk, etc so the finish should be fairly durable (I will not use the table for poker unless it's covered!)
6) I will be finishing the table in its final location
Here are the options and the pros/cons that I see for each one after doing my research.
Waterlox: Seems like everyone likes this product. My big question is does it feel like wood or "plastic" when it's done?
Pros: 1) Looks awesome on walnut
2) Will resist water stains
3) Relatively easy to touch up
Cons: 1) It stinks horribly when it's applied and after drying
2) Can be touchy to apply (I've read just about everything I could so it looks like 3 coats of Original (non low-voc) applied using Scott's shop towels, a light sanding, coat again, repeat until it looks like you want it. The final coat would be in satin)
Osmo PolyX: Not much info on this one. Seems like it's big overseas. From what I've read the finished product is supposed to feel like wood and hot be glossy at all.
Pros: 1) Supposedly it only requires 2 coats
2) Easy to apply
3) Easy to repair
Cons:
1) I read some people said it's not good for table tops
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish. Everyone seems to like this product. I couldn't really find anything bad about it. My guess is it's almost like the Osmo Polyx
Pros: 1) Easy to apply
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I could not really find any
Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Topcoat (satin). Seems similar to the Sam Maloof and Osmo products.
100% Pure Tung Oil. I'm sure the finish look and feel would pass the "wife test" but I have questions about the durability. It provides "durable water resistance" but really, what does that mean? Will that sweaty water glass that was left on the table for 3 hours leave a ring?
Pros: 1) Easy to apply (while blindfolded)
2) Easy to maintain
Cons: 1) I've read that oil will absorb into paper products long after it's been applied
2) Provides absolutely no protection for scratches, dents, dings, etc.
What I'm really looking for from everyone out there who has more experience than me with these finishes is some guidance on how well they fit what we're looking for. Please keep in mind that the only experience I have with finish work is what I learned from my hardwood floor guys - they sanded to 120, water-popped the floors, stained them, and applied poly. Right now, I've sanded the table to 120 but from the research I've done I need to work up to 220. Besides that, anything you all could provide would be greatly appreciated.
307347307348307349
The visible plywood side of the base(s) is what the table will sit on. The sides, and bottoms of the bases are all 3/4" walnut.