DIY SawStop Replaceable Zero Clearance Insert

[Tom Willoughby]

I have been looking at the Infinity zero clearance insert for some time but it was relatively expensive and the screws to avoid the replaceable insert pinching the blade seemed to be a bit cludgy for an otherwise excellent insert. I, therefore, set out to create my own from a blank SawStop dado insert.

The first step was to create a channel for the insert to slide in to. I tried to use a dovetail bit but the angle was not large enough to hold the insert securely and I ended up buying a French cleat bit that had a 45 degree angle. (It looks like a severe dovetail bit). Below is a picture of the insert that has the channel routed out. (The French cleat bit is in the router table).
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I then created the replaceable inserts with melamine covered hardboard that I got from a local big box store. I wanted readily available material that I could source easily.
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In order keep the insert from pinching the blade without resorting to screws, I came up with a wedge design by cutting a short piece of the insert and epoxying it in the channel with a point that would force the insert to the outside of the channel away from the blade. If you look closely at the end of the insert you can see the insert that looks a bit like an arrow. A picture is worth a thousand words.
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The replaceable inserts must have matching 45 degree angles cut out that I do on my band saw. It is not as easy as simply cutting the insert with a single cut but it wasn't hard either with a miter gauge on the band saw. The replaceable inserts slide in the slot from the front of the insert and are wedged outward when they hit the permanently epoxied piece at the back. I think that it will work out well but time will tell if it is a good design.
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I hope that this helps someone who may be looking for a way to make replaceable zero clearance inserts for the SawStop table saw. I have learned so many tips and tricks from this site, it was my turn to give something back to the community. :)

Tom

P.S. Sorry about all of the pictures being rotated 90 degrees. I have no idea how to correct that.

[J.R. Rutter]

Nice job! It is nice to be able to change out inserts quickly and easily.

[Rick Potter]

That is a great idea.

I am bookmarking it.

[Bob Falk]

Great idea....very clever using the wedge shaped piece to prevent blade binding

[Andy Booth]

Great way to save some significant cash
And down right clever.

[Rick Pinzon]

I am replying to a very old post so hopefully you see this. I am very interested in replicating your design but I am not understanding what you an others a referring to how the wedge and screws avoid pinching the blade. How would the blade be pinched if the insert is designed wrong?




I have been looking at the Infinity zero clearance insert for some time but it was relatively expensive and the screws to avoid the replaceable insert pinching the blade seemed to be a bit cludgy for an otherwise excellent insert. I, therefore, set out to create my own from a blank SawStop dado insert.

The first step was to create a channel for the insert to slide in to. I tried to use a dovetail bit but the angle was not large enough to hold the insert securely and I ended up buying a French cleat bit that had a 45 degree angle. (It looks like a severe dovetail bit). Below is a picture of the insert that has the channel routed out. (The French cleat bit is in the router table).
307150

I then created the replaceable inserts with melamine covered hardboard that I got from a local big box store. I wanted readily available material that I could source easily.
307151307153

In order keep the insert from pinching the blade without resorting to screws, I came up with a wedge design by cutting a short piece of the insert and epoxying it in the channel with a point that would force the insert to the outside of the channel away from the blade. If you look closely at the end of the insert you can see the insert that looks a bit like an arrow. A picture is worth a thousand words.
307152

The replaceable inserts must have matching 45 degree angles cut out that I do on my band saw. It is not as easy as simply cutting the insert with a single cut but it wasn't hard either with a miter gauge on the band saw. The replaceable inserts slide in the slot from the front of the insert and are wedged outward when they hit the permanently epoxied piece at the back. I think that it will work out well but time will tell if it is a good design.
307154

I hope that this helps someone who may be looking for a way to make replaceable zero clearance inserts for the SawStop table saw. I have learned so many tips and tricks from this site, it was my turn to give something back to the community. :)

Tom

P.S. Sorry about all of the pictures being rotated 90 degrees. I have no idea how to correct that.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The difficulty is that the color of the pointed bit of glued-in insert looks almost the same as the background in photo 4. Look closely at the left edge, and you will see the curve of the piece in white on white. In the 5th photo, look for the diagonal line where the insert meets the glued-in piece.

What I wonder is how the whole thing is installed over the blade guard. I assume the pointed bit is glued to only one side, so the insert springs around the riving knife (RK). For the low-profile riving knife it could simply drop over it, but the photo clearly shows the pawls installed. It would seem awkward to thread the RK through the slot, lock down the RK, then drop the insert into place, but perhaps that's not so bad.

[glenn bradley]

Bueno! Nice job on that. I have a commercial plate picked up on clearance at Rockler but, do make my own inserts out of scrap.

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[Tom Willoughby]

The difficulty is that the color of the pointed bit of glued-in insert looks almost the same as the background in photo 4. Look closely at the left edge, and you will see the curve of the piece in white on white. In the 5th photo, look for the diagonal line where the insert meets the glued-in piece.

What I wonder is how the whole thing is installed over the blade guard. I assume the pointed bit is glued to only one side, so the insert springs around the riving knife (RK). For the low-profile riving knife it could simply drop over it, but the photo clearly shows the pawls installed. It would seem awkward to thread the RK through the slot, lock down the RK, then drop the insert into place, but perhaps that's not so bad.

Thanks for the reply Alan. You are exactly right regarding the pointy epoxy insert. You do have to cut the back accurately to install over the blade guard. Attached are a couple of other photos with the replaceable insert and the glued in portion that might make it a bit clearer. It has been a few years and it still works well.

Tom
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[Paul Ruud]

This is really clever. Has anyone tried making one for a 45-degree bevel cut? I imagine that the ZCI part needs to be wider. Cheers!

[Tom Willoughby]

I have a dedicated zero clearance 45 degree insert. It is a bit of a pain to install as the blade must be below the table to install the throat plate with the 45 degree insert and then the blade raised through the slot (already tilted at 45 degrees).

Tom

[Paul Ruud]

Thank you, Tom.

[Paul Ruud]

One more question: how deep is the dovetail groove for the inserts? Thanks again!

[Tom Willoughby]

Hi Paul,

The inserts are a little over 1/8 inch thick and the groove was done to match.

Tom