Questions On A Transition From A Unisaw To Sawstop

[Ken Krawford]

I've had a Platinum Edition Unisaw for the past 10 yrs and have decided to get a Sawstop. I've been delighted with the Unisaw and want to replace it some something equivalent. It appears that the model PCS31230 would fit that description with 230V 3hp 1phase power and 52" T-glide fence.

A couple of questions if I may:

Is the overarm dust collection effective and worth $199?
Do these things ever go on sale? It appears that all the online sellers charge the same price when you factor in shipping.
Is there anything else I should buy at the same time?
Any other factors I haven't considered?

Thanks for your input.

[Mike Nguyen]

I got this Sawstop last year with the overarm dust collection and industrial mobile base. I use the overarm dust collection whenever possible so I think $200 bucks is worth it. You can make your own for less like Paul at HalfInchShy.com. I also have Festool CT 26 with boomarm and I can just attach it directly to the blade guard to collect the dust from the top and the dust collection with the 4" for the bottom. I would skip the overarm dust collection if you have a Festool boomarm dust collection. You should also get the zci from Infinity too.
Mike

[Lee Reep]

I think they are like Festool -- standardized pricing, but occasional deals. There was a deal in the past few months or so where you got the overhead DC arm or a mobile base for free. I've been eyeing the PCS for awhile, to replace my contractor-style saw. I used one at a local lumber shop and it is a beautiful machine. I bought a Festool track saw last year for breaking down sheet goods, and decided to delay the SawStop purchase. But there are times a table saw for me is a must, like ripping tough and/or thick woods, and my contractor saw just won't cut it, literally. If you've got the need and the budget, check out the new sliding crosscut table from SawStop, as well. It looks, and feels, like a really quality add-on.

[glenn bradley]

I got the saw you mention and the overarm collection part was free in a promo. I am glad to have it but, wouldn't pay $200 for it if you already have another overarm guard / collector. If you do not, I would look at your shop setup and decide if you want one that rather seamlessly integrates with the saw but is only just above average in collection (but a very goo guard) or if you want more serious overarm collection.

I have had overarm collection for about a decade and would have done something if the Saw Stop didn't come with the overarm. The small hose and the design (slave off the lower collector at 90* plus the long, small path) make the collection OK but not near what a 3" or 4" collector feed does for you.

I only really get the benefit of the overarm when doing a lot of ripping or stock breakdown so the Saw Stop overarm is working fine for me since I do less of this than nearly anything else. It is also less trouble with a better guard feature than my previous overarm so, all in all it works for me. If you do a lot of production-type ripping of stock I would go another way. JMHE.

[David Kumm]

You should look inside the saw and compare the build to your unisaw. The ICS is a heavier build than the Uni but not sure the PCS is. Might not be relevant or important but if you are comparing, the inside of the machine is what is most important. Dave

[Peter Aeschliman]

If your saw will be stationary, then no, I definitely don't think it's worth the $200- just hang your hose straight down from the ceiling. This is what I do with mine and it works fine. When I'm doing lots of ripping as part of my milling process, I like to use the table on the right for my workpieces- that tubing rig would just annoy me. I'd constantly be hitting it with workpieces as I move them around, especially really long ones. It also eliminates the possibility of having a router table in your extension wing if that's something you might want.

It might be worth it if you move your saw around often though.

[Keith Hankins]

They put the PCS on sale and generally either give the free over arm or mobile base.

I have the ICS 5hp, and the DC is the same as the PCS, and it's top notch. Easy to take off and put on, and works like a champ.

Great saw and you won't be disappointed in the saw. Have a good one.

[Anthony Whitesell]

If your saw will be stationary, then no, I definitely don't think it's worth the $200- just hang your hose straight down from the ceiling. This is what I do with mine and it works fine. When I'm doing lots of ripping as part of my milling process, I like to use the table on the right for my workpieces- that tubing rig would just annoy me. I'd constantly be hitting it with workpieces as I move them around, especially really long ones. It also eliminates the possibility of having a router table in your extension wing if that's something you might want.

It might be worth it if you move your saw around often though.

Thanks for the info. I was wondering and thinking the same thing. I too am planning on getting a SawStop PCS but have some shop prep to do plus I am going to wait for a promo. If the promo from last year comes up again, I was thinking of opting for the integrated base and buying the blade guard with the dust port, but not the overarm boom.

[Robert Chapman]

If you will need to move you SawStop around in your shop I would really recommend the Industrial Mobile Base if it is still available. The hydraulic lift works really well and the four casters allow great maneuvering. If I recall correctly it's about $300 well spent.

[Steve Wilde]

I too am on the verge of purchasing a PCS 3hp 52" fence. I have been hoping that they would have a sale soon, but I'm going to just bite the bullet and get it next week I think. I would love an ICS but the extra $1000 is a tough one to bite, especially when I need to buy a jointer too, that's most of a Dj20 used, although I really want a powermatic 8" jointer!

[Keith Hankins]

I guess you don't want to hear that a 7.5hp ICS went for 1750 on ebay.

[Steve Wilde]

There's an ICS on one of the local classifieds for $2300 but it's 3 phase. I'm not sure I want to tackle that, and what i'd save would have to be spent on a converter as I don't have 3 phase in my house.

[Jon Nuckles]

I have the PCS with 52" fence, overarm dust collection and mobile base. The saw is very nice. The dust collection is good as long as you can use the blade guard AND are not ripping near the edge of a board. If you are taking off only an eighth inch or less, it will spray dust to the left of the blade even with the blade guard and overarm assembly. I think the integrated PCS mobile base is great. Smooth up and down, lifts the side table with the base, and rolls easily. I missed the sale that threw in the overarm dust collection with the PCS. The only deal when I bought mine was on the ICS, but I was not able to wait.

[Ken Krawford]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My Unisaw has not budged since the day I set it up so I really don't have much need for a mobile base. I'm not in a huge rush so I'll just 'wait in the weeds' until the next overarm dust collection freebie. If I don't like it, I'm not out anything.

[Art Mann]

One thing you might want to do is obtain accurate weight information for the two saws you are comparing. As someone already mentioned, the answer to the question of equivalency of the two is not just in the appearance but also how much cast iron is used in the right places. If the PCS and the Unisaw weigh close to the same, then chances are they are built equally heavy duty. If the PCS is much lighter, then maybe you need to look at the ICS. Just a thought.

[Prashun Patel]

I tend to run my PCS with the riving knife only, not the guard. The guard and it's dust collection is IMHO good if you are doing a bunch of rips. It depends how you work. My non-thru cuts and trimming cuts make so much dust that even if I had the dc boom, I wouldn't be able to utilize it for these most offensive ops.

If you do not require a mobile base, then I would instead put the $$ into extra brakes. Remember, the dado brake is different from the regular one.

Also, there are reports of people having issues with the thickness of the riving knife and their chosen blade. So, if your blade is not on the same page as the RK, you may want to get a new blade (the other option is to grind the knife).


Also, if you

[Kevin Womer]

I've had a Platinum Edition Unisaw for the past 10 yrs and have decided to get a Sawstop. I've been delighted with the Unisaw and want to replace it some something equivalent. It appears that the model PCS31230 would fit that description with 230V 3hp 1phase power and 52" T-glide fence.

A couple of questions if I may:

Is the overarm dust collection effective and worth $199?
Do these things ever go on sale? It appears that all the online sellers charge the same price when you factor in shipping.
Is there anything else I should buy at the same time?
Any other factors I haven't considered?

Thanks for your input.

1) The overhead dust collection is nice, not necessary unless tabletop collection is important to you. I would wait until they offer a free assessory with the purchase of a saw. However, the below the table dust collection is the best I have seen, a shroud surrounds the blade and when hooked to a DC (I use a 2hp Jet) works incredibly well.
2) I am unaware if they go on sale, I have never noticed, others would know better than I would, but I have seen the assessories included with a purchase for free.
3) if you ever plan on moving one for any reason, get a mobile base. I have the industrial one, only due to a shipping error to my benefit and the 3 hp Proffessional and it works very well. I ordered the regular base and it would have been fine for me. It is a heavy saw and can be scooted if need be but a base makes it easy to move around the shop.
4) if you use a dado, it has to be an 8 inch, this requires a separate brake cartridge for dado use. A spare brake cartridge for 10 inch blades is another thing to consider, but hopefully you never need to use it.
5) The manual and the non safety features on this saw I observed while assembling and using it for the last few years have me convinced I would buy it again without the brake system. They engineered this saw to last.
6) I purchased an after market throat plate from Infinity tools that accepts replacement inserts for different blades including dado which is nice-Sawstop throat plates are nice but pricey.
I hope I have answered your questions and wish you well with your purchase,
Kevin

[Ken Krawford]

I've looked thru my manual and don't see a weight listed. The PCS w/ 3 hp motor and 52" fence lists wt. as 431#. A new Unisaw 36-L352 w/ 3hp and 52" fence weighs 661#. Thats a huge difference. The ICS shows a weight of 685#. Looks like about $1K for 250 lbs of iron.


One thing you might want to do is obtain accurate weight information for the two saws you are comparing. As someone already mentioned, the answer to the question of equivalency of the two is not just in the appearance but also how much cast iron is used in the right places. If the PCS and the Unisaw weigh close to the same, then chances are they are built equally heavy duty. If the PCS is much lighter, then maybe you need to look at the ICS. Just a thought.

[Ken Krawford]

Good point about the blade and riving knife. I was planning on putting my Forrest WWII on this saw. Not sure how that would work with the riving knife.

[Prashun Patel]

I suppose it's because I've never tried a heavier one, but I've never felt that my PCS was lacking in weight. It cuts accurately without any vibration or instability. How might more iron help the ICS perform better than the PCS. I can understand the greater HP, not the mass.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I use (and like) the dust collection. I run a hose down from the ceiling for it. I purchased mine used right here on the creek. If you need to purchase it separately, first see how you like things with the standard blade guard.

Sometimes, when I cut off very thin strips, they are sucked up into the blade guard and then I need to extract them (usually by "unplugging" the hose on the blade guard).

When I am cutting right along the edge of a board, it will still spit a bunch of sawdust and such at me, but it generally does a good job.

[Wade Lippman]

The standard blade guard works well. I haven't tried the accessory one, but I can't see why it would be necessary.

I got the cheap mobile base. I am sure the good one is better, but the cheap one does everything I need.

[Joe Kaufman]

I've seen the advertisement for the free $199 dust collection option or mobile base option that starts March 1st and extends through April. Same as last year. I believe that it is PCS only, not for the other models.

[Joe Kaufman]

Its on the inside cover of April's Woodworker's Journal.

[mreza Salav]

ICS has bigger table than PCS, bigger "guts" can probably handle multiple brake fires...

[Mike Nguyen]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My Unisaw has not budged since the day I set it up so I really don't have much need for a mobile base. I'm not in a huge rush so I'll just 'wait in the weeds' until the next overarm dust collection freebie. If I don't like it, I'm not out anything.
Sawstop will have this promotion between March 1 and April 30, 2015 according to the ads I see in Woodworkers Journal Magazine.
Mike

[Kevin Womer]

Good point about the blade and riving knife. I was planning on putting my Forrest WWII on this saw. Not sure how that would work with the riving knife.


Ken,
I use a Forrest WWII on my Sawstop with the riving knife. It works fine, perhaps the rumors about the need to grind the RK are based on use of a blade less than 1/8 of an inch kerf. The RK can be adjusted to accommodate blades width or diameter (metric), but my was fine with the Forrest. Just lower it down to a small section sticking up through the throat plate and you can visibly see if the RK is at a higher height than the blade, no measuring necessary. Good luck!

[Rick Potter]

Not quite on point Ken, but the best thing I did, when I went from my Unisaw to my PCS, was to keep the Unisaw. I put a dado set on it, and am amazed at how many times I have used a dado since doing that.

If you have the room, of course.

[John Sanford]

FYI: The "accessory blade guard" that includes the DC fitting is standard on the 3hp PCS and on the ICS. It is a separate upgrade on the Contractor's Saw and 1.75hp PCS

[Art Mann]

I suppose it's because I've never tried a heavier one, but I've never felt that my PCS was lacking in weight. It cuts accurately without any vibration or instability. How might more iron help the ICS perform better than the PCS. I can understand the greater HP, not the mass.

You know, good enough is good enough. However, I tried a Grizzly hybrid table saw once and thought it was quite adequate. I even considered buying one. I later tried a Grizzly 12" table saw with a 5 hp motor belonging to a fellow woodworker and I could easily tell the difference in smoothness and stability, regardless of horsepower. The reality is the Contractor table saw I now own is adequate for my purposes but that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to have a heavier saw. The OP wanted to compare the attributes of two saws. Weight is one attribute that has some value. It is one reason all those 1940's Unisaws are still out there cutting in a commercial setting 70 years later.