Do molding planes cut ok across the grain?

[Frederick Skelly]

Or, are they only for cutting with the grain? For example, could I use one to put an edge all the way around a tabletop? I think the answer must be 'yes' but Im not certain.

Im sorry to ask this simplistic question, but I cant quite figure it out from what Im reading and I dont own any (yet). On one hand, they seem to have no nickers to work cross grain. On the other hand, if the plane was skewed and quite sharp you could probably make it work.

Can someone please teach me?

Thank you!
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

Fred,

Usually when using a molding plane across grain one needs to score the edge of the cut first.

I can't find the other post where this was mentioned, but Roy Underhill has at least one episode on going cross grain with a molding plane.

http://video.pbs.org/video/2292074921/

Also do the cross grain work first. This allows the with grain work to clean up any tear out which is to be expected with cross grain molding.

There are many molding planes available with skewed blades.

A sharp blade is mandatory.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Thank you Jim. That helps a lot!Fred

[Jim Matthews]

If you can 'let in' with a sharp rabbet to start the crossgrain cut, maybe it will work.

I was taught to cut moldings extra long and miter them to go cross grain.
I'm really curious what it is you're trying to make this way.

It's unconventional, but that often produces interesting results.

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Jim. Im really trying to understand if molding planes could substitute for an electric router to put an edge on a tabletop. Is that the way the old craftsmen did it, or was there a better way? I dont think a scratch stock would be the right tool. Are there other ways in addition to what Jim K described - your post seems to imply that? If so, can you describe them to teach me, the newbie? Thanks Sir!
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Jim. (M) Im really trying to understand if molding planes could substitute for an electric router to put an edge on a tabletop.

What Jim M is saying is a lot of the area to be cut away can be first removed with rabbet plane so there isn't as much work for the molding plane to do.

Roy Underhill mentioned starting with the easiest plane to sharpen first.

Also when going across the grain taking light cuts helps to lessen tear out.

This Sheet Music Rack has molding at the bottom that goes across grain:

307080307081

Part of the problem was some of the molding was salvaged from another piece and there wasn't enough to do miters at the corners. Matching molding and the end grain molding were cut using Stanley #45 & #55 planes along with a knife to score the end grain where needed.

There are many ways to get to the same goal.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

Do you mean a roundover on the edge of a table top, or molding profile?

I would cut my boards over long and a little wide if that's your last step.
Even when I'm careful, that's when I knock off the far corner,
or splinter out long grain. I've been at this awhile, and it still
has me scratching my head.

If you intend to tackle this with a profile molding, you can only
go one direction. If you're putting on a roundover,
you can start at each end and work toward the middle.

VERY fine shavings, in any case.

[Frederick Skelly]

Do you mean a roundover on the edge of a table top, or molding profile?

I would cut my boards over long and a little wide if that's your last step.
Even when I'm careful, that's when I knock off the far corner,
or splinter out long grain. I've been at this awhile, and it still
has me scratching my head.

If you intend to tackle this with a profile molding, you can only
go one direction. If you're putting on a roundover,
you can start at each end and work toward the middle.

VERY fine shavings, in any case.


Gotcha. Thanks to both of you!
Fred