What cheap throw away material to use over my worktable?

[Jeff H Lee]

My work table is a solid wood door . Its nice and clean. When I build model airplanes, I lay a piece of ceiling acoustic tile as a temporary topper because I need to stick pins to hold the balsa over the plans. I also have a very nice piece of 1 inch balsa butcher block that I use occasionally .

For non model airplane use , I am wondering what cheap wood to use as a sacrifice support piece when I need to cut through the workpiece with router or circular saw so I don't cut grooves or drill holes into my solid door work top ? I have used sheets of white foam but I hate the bits of foam that gets thrown all over the place.

Tks

[Raymond Fries]

I never use sacrifical material and cannot offer a suggeston for one but I do it a different way and maybe this would work for you.

When I make cuts like this, sometimes I support the wood above the surface with blocks of wood and cut on the garage floor if the board is really long. Other times, I use the end of my tablesaw and support stands to create the span to cut. Maybe you could use a sawhorse or something else the same height and span the wood across these two.

Good Luck with your solution.

[Max Neu]

I don't use a sacrificial board for cutting, but if I needed to, I would just go to lowes and find the cheapest piece of 1/2" plywood they sell.

[Bryan Cramer]

Some people use 3/4" MDF. I know a cabinet shop that has work benches made of 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF over sawhorses.

[Keith Weber]

MDF would work. It's nice and flat, but it's slippery -- I don't know if that creates a problem for you. If you don't like the foam balls, you probably won't like MDF dust either. That stuff makes a mess of the shop!

[Jeff H Lee]

Tks for the suggestions above. I have used saw horses with several lengths of 2x4 across them as workpiece support . Works ok for straight cuts , never tried it with a router for circle cuts . I will look for cheapest plywood I can find at lowes. The plywood I have at home is too good for this .

[scott spencer]

I use 1/8" tempered hardboard on my workbench. It comes in 1/4" too. It's pretty cheap, easy to cut and install, and even fairly durable. When it's trashed, I'll replace it....it's been at least 2 years now....

[Bill McNiel]

I have a replaceable 1/4" MDF surface on both my workbench and one counter. I use 1/8" tempered masonite on my MFT or workbench when tracksawing.

[Bill Huber]

They sell 3/4" foam insulation at the big box stores, I use it when I am cutting sheet goods on the floor.

[Art Mann]

I agree with Bill Huber! Pink or blue foam boards work great.

[Jeff H Lee]

I agree with Bill Huber! Pink or blue foam boards work great.

Do the pink and blue foam generate lots of beads like the white foam stuff? If not they would be ideal because they will be much lighter than ply, mdf or hardboard.

All hardboard are 1/8 inch and smooth only on one side at HD or Lowes.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I'm with Bill and Jeff. I use the pink rigid foam. It does not leave the beads that the less dense white stuff does.

[John Donhowe]

I'm with Bill and Jeff. I use the pink rigid foam. It does not leave the beads that the less dense white stuff does.

Plus, you can stick pins into it for your model airplane work!

[Jeff H Lee]

Thanks guys . I will check out the pink or blue rigid foam.

[Art Mann]

Do the pink and blue foam generate lots of beads like the white foam stuff? If not they would be ideal because they will be much lighter than ply, mdf or hardboard.

All hardboard are 1/8 inch and smooth only on one side at HD or Lowes.

Well, cutting into the foam with a circular saw does produce some floating debris but it isn't nearly as obnoxious to deal with as MDF dust. Hardboard might be better but I like a backing material that is thicker than 1/8 or 1/4 hardboard because there is less chance of setting the saw up so it hits the supporting material below it (which might be concrete in my case). The insulation is cheaper too. I normally use the insulation board with a Makita track saw, which provides good dust collection when used with a shop vac.

[Jim Finn]

When I was a Sheet Metal Worker our shop benches were all covered with 1/4" Masonite. Replaced after about 15 years every day use.

[Rich Riddle]

I use 1/8" tempered hardboard on my workbench. It comes in 1/4" too. It's pretty cheap, easy to cut and install, and even fairly durable. When it's trashed, I'll replace it....it's been at least 2 years now....1/8th inch hardboard is exactly what I use. It last a few years as you indicate. Takes a few minutes to replace the top on the "non-woodworking" or "everyday" bench. I don't use the woodworking bench for things that will potentially permanently damage the top. Here is the everyday bench tacked onto an avionics bench (far left). Both have hardboard tops.

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[johnny means]

I like to get a little fancy.:rolleyes: My disposable tops are melamine coated particle board. Takes screws well, and I like being able to clean the glues, epoxies, and finishes that build up from time to time. Also, I can use it for quick sketches and notes that can always be wiped off when the job is done.

[Max Neu]

personally I would use either plywood or foam, Mdf and particle board will dull cutters and blades faster.

[Art Mann]

I don't think the OP is looking for a bench covering. My interpretation is he was looking for a sacrificial material as a backer for cutting sheet goods. With that application, a masonite or melamine bench top wouldn't last very long.

[Pete Janke]

I use cheap laminate flooring, the leftover stuff that the big boxes are clearing out. Lays flat and easily replaced. You can buy a box for under $15 sometimes.

[Phil Barrett]

I have several materials I use. For track saw work, I use 1/4" plywood. For glueup/clamping/assembly, I use 5mm foam blue foamboard used for underlaying wood floors.

The foam is nice because it's great for avoiding scratches on the work piece as well as the bench top. Plus, it's way cheap and easy to cut to the perfect shape. The foamboard is not made of encapsulated polystyrene so it doesn't bead up. I've used it under tracksaw work but don't like the little blue bits.

[John Donhowe]

The only problem with laminate flooring is that it has an aluminum oxide coating. Great for wear, but terrible for cutting edges.

[Jeff H Lee]

The last time I checked some years ago , the pink or blue foam sheets were quite expensive for 2 inch thick ones that I use for cutting foam wings . Maybe the 1/2 inch ones are cheaper.

I need to find a lumber place in Portland , OR to buy true 1/4 inch tempered hardboard. The ones from the big box stores are only 3/16 inch thick even though they are classified as 1/4 inch .