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Leo Graywacz
02-13-2015, 8:36 AM
Floor to ceiling and

had to deal with that beam coming through the area. It use to be the end of the house, it was extended before my client moved in.



Before
http://www.fototime.com/5BE72A66F6650D2/orig.jpg

Leo Graywacz
02-13-2015, 8:36 AM
After:
http://www.fototime.com/23D1B16C3BD6DAB/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/9758C1B054FCF5C/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/5AB9B53FC1EDD4D/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/BD0409C4FF5D697/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/2A9F0AA67BA0C32/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/22896496210CE1C/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/8FCBD5D5587BD90/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/8C939D83F72B658/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/CF47965A3A000CD/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6C5E01463D4C54F/orig.jpg

Kent A Bathurst
02-13-2015, 9:24 AM
Nice work !! Including the beam.

I hope your client appreciates the distinction between inset doors/drawers v. overlap - very nice on that bit, Leo.

Randy Red Bemont
02-13-2015, 10:29 AM
Awesome job. Too bad that beam was there but you did a great job working around it.

Red

John TenEyck
02-13-2015, 10:35 AM
Beautiful work. What did you use for the finish? That damned beam sure ruins the look of your fine work, though. I would have looked to stop the right cabinet at the beam and then design something to fill the space between it and the fireplace. Not faulting your work at all, it's top notch.

John

Mel Fulks
02-13-2015, 11:13 AM
Nice work. Especially the inset doors. Not a fan of arches in an asymmetrical setting,always tried to dissuade client ,but
some won't pay you if you don't do what they want! Since they and the beam ARE there I would consider a huge key block
encapsulating the beam...and in a contrasting color. Maybe the brick red. Whimsy can work in formal settings and is needed is some informal ones.

Leo Graywacz
02-13-2015, 12:25 PM
They painted the beam the color of the ceiling to make it "disappear". Obviously that'll never happen. I tried to persuade them to have the top area of the cabinets just as large as the beam so it would look like they were on the same plane, that got shot down.

It came down to this is what they wanted so that is what I built.


John T, the finish is ML Campbell's Stealth in Satin, the color is Acadia White. It's a cabinet grade conversion varnish.

The doors are a melding of inset and Euro. The outer stiles and lower rail make them inset, but the rest of it is just overlay with a tight reveal.

Ken Fitzgerald
02-13-2015, 12:30 PM
Nicely done Leo! It was a difficult situation but you dealt with it in a good fashion.

glenn bradley
02-13-2015, 12:48 PM
Looks great and most important, met the client's wants.

John TenEyck
02-13-2015, 12:50 PM
Thanks for the info on the finish, Leo.

John

Leo Graywacz
02-13-2015, 12:52 PM
A member someplace else asked about a description of the install. You might find it interesting

The base cabinets are 1 cabinet each. The wall stile was removable, pocket screws in the face frame and the side of the cabinet. We put the cabinet in place, leveled with a laser and then scribed the stile. Took the cabinet out, attached the stile and put it back, screwed it to the wall. Countertop was sized in length then scribed to the wall. Screwed the countertop in place. The left upper was a single pc. Since we didn't have to worry about butting up to the hearth stone we had an extra inch. Scribed the cabinet to the wall and set in place. We put one shelf low down to make sure spacing was correct. Then we put masking tape around the cabinet where it touched the countertop. Removed the upper. Drilled holes in the appropriate places to attach the upper to the countertop. Put the upper back in place, predrilled and counter sunk where the screws would be and used 2 1/2" screws to secure the upper. On the left hand side of the cabinet, as high as I could and as close to the front of the cabinet we used a 5" screw to secure it to the wall into the upper plate.

The right a side consists of 3 cabinets. The base is a single cabinet with the wall stile removable. This cabinet was a real pain because of it's weight and the window that made it so we had to lift and drop it into place when the wall stile had been reattached. Couple of screws into the wall and it's secured.

The upper cabinet is in two pcs. The single bay to the left of the beam and the double bay to the right. The left hand cabinet had the left stile and a partial arch rail, no stile on the right side. The right side of the cabinet had biscuit slots in it to line it up with the stile.

We lined up the laser with the lower cabinet left edge and took measurement to the beam. We cut out the top and the back 1/16" larger on each side so it would clear the beam. We cut the arch face frame a bit long so we could adjust for scribe. Lifted it in place and checked the fit. Had to scribe it a bit to fit perfect.

The right side upper had the stile on the wall removable. The upper arched rail again was left long and it needed to be cut to the proper length. We did that and did a test fit. We cut it 1/16" long so we could scribe. Put on the scribe line and took the cabinet down and belt sanded it. Put it back in place and it fit. Then scribed the right stile. We did the tape trick again. Took down both uppers, drilled the holes in the countertop, put the stile on the cabinet permanently, glued in the biscuits.

Put the left cabinet back up, laid a line of glue on the edge of the plywood with the biscuits in it. We put the right side cabinet up, with the stile up there things were really tight, had to use a bit of force to get it in place. We put a bunch of shelf pins in the front row of the adjoining cabinets, we put a level behind the shelf pins and then used some squeeze clamps on the level and the front of the cabinet to close the glue joint up. Smart, huh? Thought of that myself http://img.contractortalk.com/smilies2/smartass.gif

We did stuff to continue the job while we waited the hour for the glue to dry. After we removed the clamps we lined everything up with the blue tape and installed the screws like before. The left hand cabinet we put a pocket hole and screw into the backside of the arched faceframe and screwed it to the beam We also put a screw into the wall plate in the upper right hand side of the cabinet. Unless you really want to see these screws you can't. I wrapped the beam with a small 3/8" quarter round to hide the small gap around the beam.

Mel Fulks
02-13-2015, 1:46 PM
Thanks for explaining more about the beam and your own suggestion ,which would also have been an improvement. To be
clear ,I did not mean the whole beam. Just a key built out several inches. It is a most informal space and I think "here it
is" is better than the straight out of Oz "pay no attention to beam behind the paint". But I understand that to some clients
that is the most formal room in the house.

Jim Becker
02-13-2015, 9:30 PM
Really nice work, Leo.