Need advise for Small Router and Straight Plunge router bit selection.

[Jeff H Lee]

Hi all, I am new member of Sawmill Creek forums.

My main hobby is actually Model Airplanes. I am planning to purchase a combo Router kit to support my hobby . I dont intend to use the router for any furniture building or anything like that however it should have the power to make 1/2 inch dados in maple or birch . I dont mind if it takes 2 passes .

I have 2 questions:

a) Will something like a Dewalt 611PK be sufficient for my needs or should I opt for a more powerful combo like the new Craftsman 2783 ( I know crapsman has bad rep from serious woodworkers but the price seems right at $125 at my local store) or a refurb say Bosch 1617 . I would prefer something lightweight and maneuverable if possible.

b) I started to look at straight router bits and see that there are straight bits designed for plunging. Can these plunge bits be use as ordinary straight bits?

Thanks

[Brian Henderson]

Seriously, you don't need much power for what you want to do, most of the materials used in R/C aircraft are light weight. I've been flying for decades and can't remember a single time I used a router on any build, but your mileage may vary. I'd go with a detail router though, I have one of these and it works great, plus it's light-weight and easy to maneuver.

Straight bits are not necessarily meant for plunging, they are simply good at it. You can use them to cut any straight channel, plunge or not.

306632

[Jeff H Lee]

Seriously, you don't need much power for what you want to do, most of the materials used in R/C aircraft are light weight. I've been flying for decades and can't remember a single time I used a router on any build, but your mileage may vary. I'd go with a detail router though, I have one of these and it works great, plus it's light-weight and easy to maneuver.

Straight bits are not necessarily meant for plunging, they are simply good at it. You can use them to cut any straight channel, plunge or not.

306632

I have been in the r/c building and flying myself for decades as well. I use the router to make jigs and various fixtures for hobby and home . It looks like a beefed up trim router is all I need.

[Brian Henderson]

That would be my recommendation unless you can think of a reason to go bigger.

[Jeff H Lee]

That would be my recommendation unless you can think of a reason to go bigger.

No reason to go bigger. I had a low power Ryobi fixed router and router table that I sold several years ago.The new compact routers today are probably better for hobby use.

I even sold my Delta 10 inch table saw . I have now replaced it with a Dremel 580 mini table saw ( bought used) which I am surprised is very good after cleaning and installing a carbide blade.

[Phil Barrett]

Hi all, I am new member of Sawmill Creek forums.

...
b) I started to look at straight router bits and see that there are straight bits designed for plunging. Can these plunge bits be use as ordinary straight bits?

In general, yes. However, there are a number of different types of straight bits and it greatly depends on what you want to do. For simple dados, most any will do. If you need a super clean cut, look at shear bits or down cut spirals. An up cut spiral will clean out the cut better but leave the edge of the cut a little less crisp. If you are making slots in thin material, most any will work but I usually use a 1/4" up cut spiral. For slots in thicker material that need to be clean on both sides, there is a "compression" bit that has up and down cuts that pull towards the middle. Spirals are pricey so that might be a consideration. Also, spirals tend to be solid carbide which is fragile.

What ever you get, make sure it's carbide for longer life. Nothing worse than a dull router bit.

[Prashun Patel]

I have the DW611. I love it. The variable speed is wonderful. The light is wonderful. The soft start is great.

I would get a 1/8" and 1/4" carbide spiral bit. They're not expensive at this size. They give the cleanest and easiest cuts when plunging.

If you are doing mortises, look for upcut. If you are doing inlays, look for downcut.

The smaller routers are IMHO more preferable for delicate work ( I use mine for routing out pins in dovetails and can get right up to the line. You can basically use one hand around the motor body and then one on the baseplate for good control. On the bigger routers, you need to use both hands on the body.

The soft start is nice because the bit does not jerk when you start up.

Precise-fitting dados anyway usually require (for me) at least 2 passes, because my bit almost never matches the piece exactly. Google "router dado jig" for a simple and precise jig to make dados specific to any thickness.

[Jeff H Lee]

For my needs it looks like a DW611PK is ideal .

I was hoping to avoid duplicating straight bits . For example can I use a plunge straight bit in non plunge situations like in making a slot for a T Track?

How do you rout a slot if the desired width of the slot is a slightly larger than the bit diameter ? Do I rout one side of the slot, then turn the work piece around and rout from the other side so overlapping the cut ?

Tks

[Dave Zellers]

How do you rout a slot if the desired width of the slot is a slightly larger than the bit diameter ? Do I rout one side of the slot, then turn the work piece around and rout from the other side so overlapping the cut ?

Tks
Generally you want to make the complete cut without changing the setup. If you can cut a shim the thickness of the extra amount, make two passes- one with the shim against the fence and one without. If it is a very tiny amount, I have used thick paper and even a strip of tape as the shim.

+1 on the 611. I liked it so much I bought a second one.

[Jeff H Lee]

Generally you want to make the complete cut without changing the setup. If you can cut a shim the thickness of the extra amount, make two passes- one with the shim against the fence and one without. If it is a very tiny amount, I have used thick paper and even a strip of tape as the shim.

+1 on the 611. I liked it so much I bought a second one.

Good idea ! Tks . I was thinking of making an adjustable dado guide or if its a one time deal I just use two fences one one each side of the desired slot.

[Phil Barrett]

For my needs it looks like a DW611PK is ideal .

I was hoping to avoid duplicating straight bits . For example can I use a plunge straight bit in non plunge situations like in making a slot for a T Track?

How do you rout a slot if the desired width of the slot is a slightly larger than the bit diameter ? Do I rout one side of the slot, then turn the work piece around and rout from the other side so overlapping the cut ?

Tks
I recommend looking into bushings. This allows you to create a template of thin material which guides the router with a high degree of precision. There are lots of guides on the internet. This one is fairly good. (http://www.newwoodworker.com/guidebush.html) For example I use a straight 1/4" spiral bit, a template and a bushing to cut a 3/8" wide slot. The template means I make the same exact slot every time. It may seem a little complicated at first but once you understand, it's really easy to get perfect results.