Mobile Bases

[Rich Riddle]

Which ones have you found most useful and superior. I used to purchase the HTC models but am not entirely happy with their product. Which ones do you find to be the best? Thanks.

[Len Rosenberg]

I agree, was not happy with HTC base, so I made my own for my jointer and bandsaw. Simply cut a solid base out of 3/4" plywood, two layers glued together so it is 1 1/2" thick, and added high quality casters, the ones with 3" red rubber (or urethane, not sure) wheels. All four wheels are swiveling, so it is easy to move the machine in any direction. Next time I make one I will only use one layer of 3/4" ply, two is overkill.

[Rod Sheridan]

The semi live skid design is the best, don't you have it on your Hammer saw?

For many machines all you need to do is drill an axle hole and put an angle bracket on the other end.

Far superior to casters...............Rod.

P.S. If you want to spend time on it, here's a mobile base I made.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?88687-Hammer-A3-31-Mobile-Base&highlight=a3-31+mobile+base

Here's a photo of the set I made for my B3
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[Rick Potter]

I am very happy with the older HTC bases, which were custom made for various machines, but the newer universal ones are not heavy enough for large machines. I also have a Shop Fox base that came with my WoodMaster 37" drum sander. It is terrible, the wheels will hardly turn, built waay too light for the machine.

Delta bases (non adjustable) with three wheels have worked well. My only problem is the third wheel and lever being in the way sometimes, but they work well.

The Delta base kits work well, if you use metal and weld them together for heavy machines, light machines are fine with hardwood sides. HF copycat bases like these are a little lighter weight.

[Keith Weber]

Four swiveling casters vs. a two-fixed/two-swiveling setup depends a lot on what's going on them. For light stuff, I like 4 swiveling casters, but for heavy stuff, I prefer having 2 fixed casters in the rear. It makes it way easier to control the movement. A 1500 lb. machine can have a mind of its own when all 4 casters are free to swivel. You also maintain a slightly larger footprint with fixed casters on the rear, so there's less chance of tipping over a top-heavy, small-footprint machine when pushing it.

[Michael Heffernan]

I swear by the Rockler All-terrain mobile bases. They are highly configurable for all sizes and you can buy additional stretchers for longer benches, machinery footprints. They roll easily on level floors as well as uneven surfaces. Locking mechanisms are very good. They are not cheap (about $180), but you can often get them on sale at Rockler.
I have one under my router table set up (heavy system) and my Delta DC-380 planer.

[Rich Riddle]

The semi live skid design is the best, don't you have it on your Hammer saw?

For many machines all you need to do is drill an axle hole and put an angle bracket on the other end.

Far superior to casters...............Rod.


P.S. If you want to spend time on it, here's a mobile base I made.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?88687-Hammer-A3-31-Mobile-Base&highlight=a3-31+mobile+base

Here's a photo of the set I made for my B3
306328

Rod,

I do have that type of setup on my Hammer Winner K3 sliding saw and never considered just drilling an axle hole and getting wheels/axle. The tool in question could easily work that way. Now I just have to look at the K3 L-Bracket and get an idea on how to make the front part. What kind of casters/wheels and axle do you use? Also, what is the difference between the K3 and B3?

[Bill Adamsen]

I've become a fan of personally engineered and constructed bases. Two of the best I've seen ... Joe Jensen did that wonderful rehab on an SCMI F3a a few years ago and photos of that (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?97380-SCMI-F3a-Jointer-Refurb-Completed-%28lots-of-pics%29) can be found on this forum. I have "copied" Chuck Hess' basic base (http://www.hesswoodwork.com/machinery.html) design interpreting it as necessary and that works great. My recommendation is to engineer the frame itself as low as possible. I have several purchased bases - just too low a priority to replace them - they all have major issues related to being built too light.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have 3 of the JET mobile bases and like them a lot. Priced fairly and theyve held up very well.
Fred

[Dan Hintz]

I have 3 of the JET mobile bases and like them a lot. Priced fairly and theyve held up very well.
Fred

Same here (though one is still in a box). I picked up a heavier duty one for the bandsaw, and a lighter duty one for the drill press. I have been happy with them, and stuff gets rearranged in my shop every few months.

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod,

I do have that type of setup on my Hammer Winner K3 sliding saw and never considered just drilling an axle hole and getting wheels/axle. The tool in question could easily work that way. Now I just have to look at the K3 L-Bracket and get an idea on how to make the front part. What kind of casters/wheels and axle do you use? Also, what is the difference between the K3 and B3?

Hi Rich, the B3 is heavier as it has the tilting spindle shaper in it as well as the saw.

I used 4" solid steel wheels with roller bearings and some round cold rolled steel rod as the axle.

The tow bar attachment is a piece of angle that bolts to the machine.

http://www.mappcaster.com/DetailPage/WSTL-QSTL4M0.aspx

The above is a steel wheel, good rating, order it with the 5/8" bore bearing and use 5/8 rod..................Rod.