Building A "Door Stand" (Part II)

[Ken Krawford]

I'm building some door stands as pictured below. As I get into this project, I find that my biggest challenge is cutting the 1 7/8" wide slot to hold the door. The stock is 24"x5 1/2" and I would like the slot to be 2 3/4" deep. My 6" dado set only cuts a maximum of 2 1/4" deep. I tried cutting multiple kerfs and cleaning it out with a chisel but with 60 of these to do, that's not going to work.

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I'm tempted to rip the stock and glue it up as shown below. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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[Mike Schuch]

I am sorry to state the obvious but you do need a set of 8" dado blades.

Alternate approach would be to make a jig so you could use a router to make this cut... but I would just go for the 8" dado set.

[Dave Richards]

Ripping the stock and gluing it back together to make the notches would be less expensive than buying a new dado set. It's easy enough to do it that way and, if you found the need to accommodate other panel thicknesses, you could easily make the adjustable with stuff you have on hand.

[Bradley Gray]

If you need a reason to buy a dado stack this could be it. I would just make multiple cuts with a 10" blade and be done with it. 10 minutes tops. I made something similar recently and I made the cuts on a band saw.

[Kevin Jenness]

I make door jacks with 12" long 1x4's screwed together. One on the bottom with a kerf partway through from below, sitting on short 1x4 blocks at the ends. Two uprights near the center screwed from below, slightly farther apart than your thickest door and braced with 45's to the base. Pad the uprights with foam and pack in as necessary for thinner doors.The kerf allows the uprights to pinch the door as its weight comes onto the base. The greater height will make the whole affair more stable than what you are showing. You can make the base longer, but it's really not required.