Needs help for 14" bandsaw blade guide upgrade

[Susumu Mori]

Hi all,

I wonder if you know what kinds of upgrade options are available for the Delta 14" clone bandsaws.
I have an old Glizz 14" (no longer a catalog model), which is now dedicated for curve cutting with 1/4-1/2" blades.
It is a quiet and smooth running machine, but the blade wonders a bit more than I like. For stocks thicker than 1.5", I need quite a lot of spokeshave and drum sanding to smooth it out.
I guess there are many ways to tune up a bandsaw, but the first thing I'm looking at is the guide blocks.
It has primitive round steel bars with tiny set screws which keep loosen up.
I couldn't find cool blocks that fit in the guides.
I went over the Glizz parts list and ordered guide holders that can accept the regular square cool blocks, but apparently, Glizz had changed the guide assemblies significantly since then. So it seems that I need to buy the whole assembly, not just the guide holder armss and I have a concern that the lower guide assembly is not compatible with the saw itself without significant modifications.

I also went over Carter, which sells replacement kits for Delta clones, but my impression was most of their products are designed to "beef up" the saw for resawing, rather than curve cutting with narrow blades. In addition, there are many different types of guides with meager explanations. I sent an email but nothing came back.

So, my options are;

1) tune up the saw as much as possible with the current setting and try to minimize the wondering as much as possible, through guide adjustment, tension, tracking, etc.
2) Try to get the whole upper and lower guide assemblies from Glizz for a 14" saw that looks most similar and manage to fit them (upper guide pole diameter and the way the lower guide is fixed to the saw need to be carefully checked). This seems $100-150 option, if works.
3) Buy one of the Carter upgrade kits. This is about $200-250.
4) Time to buy a new 14". To me, most of the 14" offering out there, except for Rikon and Laguna, are the same things as my 10+ year bandsaw....

Any suggestions, advises, and knowledge would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[Phil Barrett]

I'd first look at tension and blade sharpness. Try replacing the blade with a new one - a LOT cheaper than anything else. Guide blocks are secondary to a sharp and properly tensioned blade and if you are running the blade against them much they will cause the blade to heat up.

[Bill White]

Do you have the guide blocks touching the blade? A dab of Loctite (blue) will keep the set screws from loosening.
Only time I set the blocks to the blade was when using Cool Blocks. Other guides should not be touching the sides of the blade.
"Wandering" could be the sign of a not-so-good blade or improper tension as has been stated.
Pics would help us help you.
Bill

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks Phil and Bill,

I guess the consensus is that I should extend the life of the Glizz with better blades and setups.
I'll follow the suggestions.

Thanks!

[glenn bradley]

I'll chime in with blade tension and sharpness. I use the flutter method which means I run a lot less tension than many folks. However, my machine tracks well and I often forget to lower the guides when cutting thinner stock. A sharp, well tracking blade doesn't make much use of the guides. If your blade is only staying on track because it is captured there by the guides, look to your alignment.

Dad upgraded his old Delta to Carter guides and they are top notch. Although the thrust bearing is often in play, the side bearings only move when doing curves that twist the blade. Lately he has just been leaving the Carter Stabilizer on even for straight work whereas he used to change back and forth.

[Curt Harms]

I'll chime in with blade tension and sharpness. I use the flutter method which means I run a lot less tension than many folks. However, my machine tracks well and I often forget to lower the guides when cutting thinner stock. A sharp, well tracking blade doesn't make much use of the guides. If your blade is only staying on track because it is captured there by the guides, look to your alignment.

Dad upgraded his old Delta to Carter guides and they are top notch. Although the thrust bearing is often in play, the side bearings only move when doing curves that twist the blade. Lately he has just been leaving the Carter Stabilizer on even for straight work whereas he used to change back and forth.

What Glenn said. If you're trying to use blade guides to force a bandsaw blade to do something it doesn't want to do, you're fighting a losing battle IMO.

[John TenEyck]

Buy a Lennox Diemaster 2 for your saw. They are very good and cut beautifully on my 14" Delta with riser. If it doesn't cut straight right out of the box there is a problem with tracking or frame/wheel alignment which you should address. Lots of people want to upgrade when all that's needed is a quality blade and setting up the saw properly. FWIW, I use Cool Blocks guides, and I set them lightly against the sides of the blade. Metal guides work fine, too, but if they slip forward or the blade backwards you trash the blade. I have a friend who uses wood guides with good success. Guides are secondary; the blade and saw setup are a lot more important.

John

[Dave Cullen]

I have an AMT "Delta clone" and the guides are 1/2 in square - I've been using cool blocks for many years. What size are yours?

[Myk Rian]

A 1/2" blade isn't exactly made for curve cutting.

[roger wiegand]

I put Carter guides on my 14" Delta many, many moons ago and have never had reason to regret it. (Might have tried cool blocks, but they hadn't been invented yet) They won't fix a bad blade or imperfect setup

[John TenEyck]

I have an AMT "Delta clone" and the guides are 1/2 in square - I've been using cool blocks for many years. What size are yours?

The same - 1/2" square.

John