Pen finishing

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I turned a few hundred pens many years back...got sick of it. Never was happy with the 'fit' of most kits, and never was happy with the finish. So I quit. Been buying a pen every now and again from a fellow mesquite 'artist'. :o Lost my head the other day and got a couple cigar pen kits and a new multi-purpose mandrel at Woodcraft and whipped them out...then ordered a bunch of other stuff from PennState. I'm still not happy with the finish. I'm not interested in sanding to 12,000G, or spending a hour finishing...but I would like something durable. I've tried 'wiping' on several coats of the pre-cat lacquer I use (spray) on furniture, but that doesn't really work very well. I think I'd like to spray this lacquer...but I need a teensy little spray gizmo to do that...preferrable a 'throw away' that I don't have to clean up. If not a throw away, would a touch up gun work?

KC

[Gary Max]

You could always go with Deft---just buy a spray can and open a door and give it a quick shot. Leave it on the mandrel so you can still sand it. Two coats will do wonders---just give it a fast light sanding between coats---something like 300 or 400 grit.
If you have a buffing wheel set up-- you can give it a buff when you are done with the Deft.
Hope this helps

[Chris Barton]

I use either friction polish or EEE wax to get a good sheen in closed pore woods.

[Matthew Poeller]

I take the pen down to the dimensions, sand from 180 grit up to 600. About 15 minutes including turning. Then I use EEE Ultra Shine. Buff that out with the paper towel. Then I install the muslin wheels and buff the pen with tripoli and white diamond. After that I reinstall the mandrel and finish with shellawax. I do not remove it right away. Let it sit for an hour or two and then assemble.

Total time for actually being at the lathe is about 30 minutes.

Give it a try. You may like the results.

[Gilbert Vega]

I think I'd like to spray this lacquer...but I need a teensy little spray gizmo to do that...preferrable a 'throw away' that I don't have to clean up. If not a throw away, would a touch up gun work?

KC
I used Deft lacquer from a spray can with very good results. I like the high gloss for some woods, in which case I wet sand the lacquer until it is totally smooth. Nothing like a high gloss to bring out the grain.

[Ed Davidson]

The first several hundred wood pens I made frustrated me as well...no matter what I tried, the finish would dull after a few minutes of handling. A couple of years ago, a friend suggested that I try the following process, which is quick, easy and really works:

Leave your blanks on the mandrel during this entire process: dry sand to 400–600 grit, apply one coat of sanding sealer (Mylands), buff using the Tripoli and White Diamond Beall system wheels, apply a coat of Renaissance wax, wait about 30 seconds and then buff using the third Beall wheel (make sure it’s clean…no Carnauba wax), wait 10-15 minutes and apply a 2nd coat of R-wax, wait another 30 seconds and then a final Beall buff on the third wheel.

BTW, the time between 1st and 2nd R-wax applications is just right to turn another set of pen blanks. So if you don't have a second mandrel, get one and you'll be putting out 5-6 pens an hour with a great lasting finish.

[Randy Meijer]

Friction finishes have a reputation for losing their shine pretty quickly!! I have a can of the Deft spray...recommended to me by a turner with much experience...but haven't tried it yet. His advice was to use the semi-gloss or satin version and avoid the glossy.

[Jeff Horton]

DISCLAIMER: The following is from someone that has never turned a pen or used a wood pen. The following statements may be really stupid!

With that out of the way, doesn't a really glossy finish make the Pen hard to hold on too? My hands sweat bad and I have alway preferred a pen (to write with) with some texture so my fingers didn't slide down the barrel as I was writing.

Of course a glossy pen will sell and rough one wouldn't. But I am just curious.

[Ed Davidson]

Good point Jeff. That's why I usually put some kind of texture (coves, rubber o-rings and beads) on my pens... looking for the no slip comfort grip.

[Ernie Nyvall]

Very nice pens Ed.

Ernie

[Michael Cody]

I turned a few hundred pens many years back...got sick of it. Never was happy with the 'fit' of most kits, and never was happy with the finish. So I quit. Been buying a pen every now and again from a fellow mesquite 'artist'. :o Lost my head the other day and got a couple cigar pen kits and a new multi-purpose mandrel at Woodcraft and whipped them out...then ordered a bunch of other stuff from PennState. I'm still not happy with the finish. I'm not interested in sanding to 12,000G, or spending a hour finishing...but I would like something durable. I've tried 'wiping' on several coats of the pre-cat lacquer I use (spray) on furniture, but that doesn't really work very well. I think I'd like to spray this lacquer...but I need a teensy little spray gizmo to do that...preferable a 'throw away' that I don't have to clean up. If not a throw away, would a touch up gun work?

KC


KC -- use Deft, it's a great solution for quick finish w/good gloss ... in particular for closed pore woods.. I don't like it as well for open pore stuff. However I recommend you use CA finish, it's not an hour... sand to 220 ... sand in BLO or Watco w/320 or 400, then sand in another coat with 600 ... put on a coat of BLO or Watco, leave it wet, then coat (on the lathe) w/MED CA glue. I use the plastic bags the parts come in - put over my fingers, drip on CA while lathe is turning slow or turned by hand ... wait 40-60 seconds, the finish will be rough. Lightly sand it smooth with 400-600 again lubricated with small amount of BLO, sand lastly with lathe off to take out any swirls, then wipe dry. Shine with EEE Ultrashine, then any of the shellac/wax friction polishes. I use Mylands ... buff on a cloth wheel to shine. I usually go the micromesh route to 12g instead of just 600g but it's not required, just gives bit more wet look... the above schedule should take you less than 10 minutes a pen

[Steve Roxberg]

Try this method

STEP #1

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES ON.

STEP #2

AFTER SANDING YOUR BLANKS, TAKE A PAPER TOWEL AND MAKE A PAD ABOUT THE SIZE OF THE END OF YOUR FINGER AT LEAST SIX LAYERS THICK. HOLD PAD AT ONE END OF YOUR BLANKS AND APPLY THIN C.A. GLUE TO BLANK AT HALF SPEED UNTIL PAD HAS ENOUGH GLUE ON IT TO SPREAD ACROSS BOTH BLANKS (DON’T CHASE PAD WITH GLUE BOTTLE) LET DRY OR SPRAY WITH ACTIVATOR.

STEP #3

REPEAT STEP #2 WITH ONE MORE COAT OF THIN C.A. GLUE AND THREE COATS OF MEDIUM C.A. GLUE ALTERNATING THE END YOU START FROM.

STEP #4

SLOW THE LATHE DOWN TO 500 TO 750 RPM. SAND THE BLANKS WITH 320 GRIT, LEVELING THE SURFACE UNTIL THE SHINY SPOTS ARE GONE AND LIGHTLY FOLLOW UP WITH 400 GRIT.

STEP #5

AFTER LEVELING RUN THROUGH THE MICROMESH KIT FROM1500 GRIT TO 12000 GRIT, FOLLOWING UP WITH MICROGLOSS.

STEP #6

SPEED THE LATHE UP TO 2000-3000 RPM AND TAKE CARNUBA WAX AND LIGHTLY RUB IT AGAINST THE LENGTH OF THE BLANKS SPARINGLY. THEN USE A CLEAN DRY CLOTH OR PAPER TOWEL WHILE LATHE IS STILL SPINNING AND BUFF.

YOU NOW HAVE THE MOST DURABLE GLOSS FINISH POSSIBLE, AND THE BLANKS ARE READY TO BE REMOVED FROM LATHE AND PEN KIT ASSEMBLED.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Thanks for the suggestions. I quit using DEFT on furniture some time back...never though about it for pens. I prolly have 6 cans sitting around the shop.

[Blake McCully]

Here's how I do it. Now take this for what it is, my procedure. First, I don't really care for a really shiny deep gloss for a wooden pen (my own opinion), for a deep glossy shine, I use acrylic.

For regular unstableized non dyed wood, I sand to 400 grit, sometimes I will go to 3600 mm, depends on how I feel at the time. Then I use the Beall system, tripoli through carnuba.

Acrylics, I usually sand dry from 220 to 400 then use wet mm up to 12000. I use some kind of acrylic polish that I got from a buddy of mine. I don't know the name since he gave it to me in a plain container. I think he got if from CSUSA.

For stabiliezed, dyed wood like you get from BB, I use mm dry to 12000. That's it.

I sold over $3,000 worth of pens last year using the procedures above, so in my case it seems to work.

Just my own process.

[Pete Fox]

I've used the friction polish with good results, but am always interested in better ways. I'd like to try the CA finish, but how do you guys keep from gluing the blanks to the bushings???

Pete :confused:

[Keith Burns]

I've always used Hut pen wax with good results. But no body here has commented on it. I would like to hear anybodys comment on this product.

My main reason for asking is I just received an order for 500 pens and I need something fast but durable.

Thanks

[Bob Tate]

I use pens I have turned every day at work. I have tried every finish I have ever heard of. Maybe I am a klutz but I have had too many screwups with CA. The various waxes always seem to wear off. I was just looking at the pens on my desk. One of the pens I turned 5 years ago still has a great shine to it, and it has seen a lot of use. It is finished with Behlen Master Woodturner Finish that I got at Woodcraft. It is the very best I have ever used.

[Keith Burns]

Thanks Bob. I use the Behlen finish on all my bowls but haven't used it on pens. I'll give it a try.

[Bob Tate]

Sometimes I look at all the finishes sitting on the shelves above the lathe and shudder to think about the money invested. And I keep going back to the one bottle of Behlens.
Probably the only problem with Behlens is waiting for a few minutes to let it dry. My wife turns pens too, and she wants it off the lathe and start the next one. Instant gratification. I am patient, I usually have dozens of other projects (non-lathe) to work on.
Another secret, if you turn Acrylic or Corian, probably any plastics, is Zymol, in my opinion the best car wax in the world. WOW what a shine. I have been using it on motorcycles for years. Lately I have been doing some Freedom Pens and gave it a shot. Now I am wondering how it works on top of Behlens. I guess I will find out tonight.

Have fun,

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

When I was doing a lot of pens, I used the Behlens, followed by the HUT PPP. When I turn a bowl, I usually just use the HUT. It's soooooo smooth, and very nearly idiot proof...a definite plus for me. :o

KC

[Jack Savona]

Somewhere along the line I picked up the procedure I'm now using for both pens and bottle stoppers, and I'm very pleased with it. After sanding to desired grit (I often go to MM 12000, but you could do less), I take a piece of plastic from a baggie or a piece of wax paper and use it to help apply really THICK (I get mine at Rockler) CA liberally at the slowest lathe speed. I use a face mask and my DC during this. The THICK CA doesn't set quickly, so I have some time to get a liberal coating of BLO onto the paper towel I have folded and ready to go and apply it to the piece as it's moving slowly, first light pressure then heavy. Then I quickly refold the towel, increase the speed, and apply lots more BLO, letting my fingertip tell me if there are any spots that need more pressure. Instant smooth coating. Usually no further sanding required, but I'll often MM again just because it only tales a few seconds and makes me feel better about it.

I follow with Mylands and a wax.

I find no significant problem with glued bushings. My guess is that the really THICK CA doesn't penetrate the joints. A light snap removes any that might stick, and a gentle 220 grit on the edge of the piece smoothes it out.

I used to use THIN CA dripped onto a BLO towel next to the piece, but now prefer the method above.

After reading the other posts, it looks like I need to try some of what you folks are using. After all, it's part of the quest, isn't it?

Jack

[Kurt Forbes]

I always glue them to tee bushings but a little sideways pressure breaks the bond pretty quick it really is a very thin coat of ca so not much of a bond.


I use ca as my under coat and usually only sand to 400 or 1k depending on mood and then use friction polish as a final just for the shine.
I have several pens that live in my pocket that the finish has held up pretty good for over a year now. The friction polish comes off pretty fast but the ca holds up great plus if you have a decently hard wood the oils/friction from your hand/pocket will really shine it up more.

Look at a galvanized railing at a park that has hundreds of little hands on it every day. You will see one of the coolest shines ever.