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Bob Yarbrough
07-26-2005, 11:42 PM
Looking to build a storage chest for the back of the pickup truck. Someplace to keep the camping gear, emergencey tools, and luggage.

Suggestions as to wood and finish requested. Need something weather tight and hopefully long lasting.

Thanks,

Bob

Aaron Kline
07-27-2005, 10:23 AM
I thought about doing this before too. I think I would either go with white oak, cedar, locust, catalpa, walnut or a marine plywood and use a marine spar varnish for a finish. If it keeps boats floating I would think it would keep a truck box dry, but thats just my 1 and 1/2 cents.

Tom Jones III
07-27-2005, 11:11 AM
Teak with spar varnish is what we used for wooden parts on the sailboat I had growing up. Lots of sun and salt water and it held up well.

Carl Eyman
07-27-2005, 12:03 PM
When I was a kid cheaper boats didn't have teak decks, but used a base wood (pressure treated would be a choice) and covered everything with canvas cemented onto the wood and painted. Make sure if using pressure treated it is well dried.

Bob Smalser
07-27-2005, 8:06 PM
I've done it before on a couple-three trucks over the decades and recommend you go out and buy an aluminum box.

Even the best joined ones vibrate themselves into oblivion long before the truck dies.

Jon Legalos
07-28-2005, 11:52 AM
I've been thinking about this for a few years, too. Best thought so far was solid edged ply, and the whole thing epoxied and fiberglassed, then spar varnish.

Don't strip built boats vibrate?

I would be very interested to hear from anyone who has tried this!

Bob Smalser
07-28-2005, 1:33 PM
Best thought so far was solid edged ply, and the whole thing epoxied and fiberglassed, then spar varnish.

Don't strip built boats vibrate?


Not like a truck, they don't.

Problem with plywood is joining the edges...you can't get away without gluing ungluable end grain no matter how hard you try...and that's where the joints break. Spendy glass and epoxy atop it and filleted into the corners only postpones it some.

If I were gonna do this again, I'd used solid cedar joined that the corners with dovetails. Then when the glue joint broke, the box'd remain together, at least until the contents busted out one of the sides. Then the reglue would also eventually fail. Then nails thru the dovetails....etc, et al.

By all means give it a try, tho...epoxy filleted corners reinforced by glass at the outside seam is as good a way as any.

Meanwhile, I'll stick with the diamond plate I can casually toss a 20T bottle jack into and never have to fuss with.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2597650/45010970.jpg