Partial Inset Doors

[Mark W Pugh]

How much gap do you allow for the inset to work properly? Any standard?

Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

I leave about 1/8" before finishing. That gap will decrease slightly depending on how much and what type of finish you apply.

[Mark W Pugh]

I leave about 1/8" before finishing. That gap will decrease slightly depending on how much and what type of finish you apply.

Is that 1/8" total, or 1/8" on each side?

[Sam Murdoch]

My target is 3/32" MAX - all around. A bit less after finishing but a for my eye and experience a 1/16" is too small and an 1/8" is a bit big - IMHO.

[David Dockstader]

The easiest spacer is a U.S. mint nickel (fairly new - they do get thinner as they circulate). They are just slightly smaller than 5/64". If you want a little larger gap (and you're a real spendthrift), you can glue 2 dimes together. That's just over 1/10". A nickel and a dime glued together gives you just shy of Sam's 3/32". As spacers, these are readily available, fairly cheap, and dimensionally reliable. And you can spend them (if you can pop them apart after you glue them together).

[Jay Jolliffe]

You also have to take into consideration the humidity...Different times of the year the gap will change.

[Tom M King]

When hanging the doors with regular (non-Euro) spring loaded hinges, take into account the amount of offset you lose when mounting the hinges to the carcass/faceframe. Mount a practice piece on scrap first if you haven't done this before. As you take out the built in spring tension, it throws the door towards the handle side some.

[Lee Schierer]

Is that 1/8" total, or 1/8" on each side?

Each side.

[Mark W Pugh]

Each side.

Thanks Lee. That's where I was going to start.

[John Bomment]

I do 1/8" also,
basically measure the opening, add 1/2" for the door size,
then cut 3/8" rabbets on the doors.

[Mark W Pugh]

I do 1/8" also,
basically measure the opening, add 1/2" for the door size,
then cut 3/8" rabbets on the doors.

Thanks for the reply.