Japanese Plane and learning how to use it.

[Fidel Fernandez]

Hi,

I have been using my new Japanese hand plane (cheapo one) and having some issues how much to tap it to set the blade.
I already did all the steps to set up the new dai and blade.

I have to tap very really soft to make it protrude and take small shavings. I am getting better at that, but one sides protrude more than the other (always the same one).
Should I try fixing it with tapping or removing some wood from the Dai?

Another question.

I tried to make one side straight from a 2 feet wood piece. I tried the Japanese plane and the wood side ended really smooth, but it was not straight. It was square but it had hollows.
I had to use my LN Jack Plane to make it straight.

I used the same technique that I have always used. I placed the wood on the vise and planning it the side with the hand plane in normal position. Should I have do it as the Japanese? Placing the wood flat on the bench and holding the Kanna on its side or it won't matter?

What would suggest?

[David Wong]

I have been using my new Japanese hand plane (cheapo one) and having some issues how much to tap it to set the blade.
I already did all the steps to set up the new dai and blade.

I have to tap very really soft to make it protrude and take small shavings. I am getting better at that, but one sides protrude more than the other (always the same one).
Should I try fixing it with tapping or removing some wood from the Dai?
It sound to me that you may have pared a little too much from the Dai and the blade is a little loose, if very soft taps are required. I would not worry about this too much. As you sharpen the blade and the blade gets shorter, it will naturally wedge in tighter. If it is really loose in the summer when seasonal expansion of the wood occurs, you can glue a piece of newsprint to the Dia bed.

Having one side of the blade protrude more is a common problem I also have. I imagine if I had perfectly bed the blade in the Dai, the blade would advance evenly. The blade can be easily adjusted side to side by tapping the blade, or tapping the side of the Dai. For this to work, you must have sufficient side clearance for the blade. I have about 1mm of clearance on either side of the blade. The most clearance is at the top of the Dai. This allow tapping the side of the blade to pivot it to adjust it.



Another question.

I tried to make one side straight from a 2 feet wood piece. I tried the Japanese plane and the wood side ended really smooth, but it was not straight. It was square but it had hollows.
I had to use my LN Jack Plane to make it straight.

I used the same technique that I have always used. I placed the wood on the vise and planning it the side with the hand plane in normal position. Should I have do it as the Japanese? Placing the wood flat on the bench and holding the Kanna on its side or it won't matter?

What would suggest?
A japanese plane is very sensitive to side to side pressure. You will cut more deeply on one side or the other if you apply pressure to the plane on that side as you pull. Try to pay special attention to holding the plane flat to the work as you pull. You can also use the wanna on its side as you suggest. Just make sure that the side is square to the bottom. Often it is not.