How do you cut a straight edge on rough sawn lumber?

[Keith Jackowski]

Hi guys, getting ready do start on my winter project, building a bed loft for my daughter. She bought a birch desk chair from Ikea, Ugh, and now she wants me to build her loft to match the chair.

I found a guy selling rough sawn maple at a great price and has an assortment of sizes. figured I'll probably need somewhere around 25 to 30 board ft to complete the project, including side rails and a couple 4x8 sheets of ply for the stairs/storage areas.

Anyway, he has all this lumber that's rough sawn and I need to make sure I have a nice straight edge on each plank to make sure this looks halfway decent. I have a '27 Tannewitz table saw that is a monster size. Any thoughts on a jig that I can have slide along to give me a nice clean edge? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Jerry Wright]

Use toggle clamps to tie down to a flat, straight piece of mdf or plywood. Use the straiggt edge against your fence and trim the rough edge.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Hi Keith,

Do you plan to mill the lumber flat, square, and straight? Do you have access to a jointer and planer?

If so, before attempting to do a straight line rip cut, I would first joint one face flat on the jointer, then plane the opposite face parallel (and flat) on the planer.

Then, there are a few options for getting one straight edge.

1) You can use a handheld circular saw with a guide, like this:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497

2) You can run it through the table saw.
-One of the simplest ways is to lightly nail a straight board to your workpiece that overhangs one edge of the workpiece. That straight board rides against the fence to give you a straight reference point while you cut the other side off.
-another more sophisticated method is to make a straight line ripping jig, which can also be used as a tapering jig. But this only works if your boards are relatively short, otherwise you have to make the jig really long. here's an example of a store-bought jig you could make yourself:

http://www.rockler.com/taper-straight-line-jig?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=Cj0KEQiA6JemBRC5tYLRwYGcwosBEiQANA3IB6wyl6E8 q0jU6gaL23j5aK9UPN-9b-VKdzj0-kfnOk8aAlXG8P8HAQ

3) If you have a jointer and the rough saw boards are sort of straight, you can just make lots of passes on the jointer to get one straight edge. You can then make the other edge parallel on the table saw.

I definitely do not recommend doing a straightline rip on the table saw without jointing at least one face and using a guide of some kind to ride against the fence. Otherwise you risk kickback, which is extremely unpleasant (especially on a saw as powerful as the one you have). Kickback might seem like a joke, but it ripped my forehead open to the bone one time. You can get pretty badly injured, so be careful.

Good luck!

[Jamie Buxton]

Does your saw have a rip fence? If so, make a sled from a piece of plywood that's wider than your widest maple plank. It runs against the rip fence with the other edge at the saw blade. Fasten each plank to the sled with the edge you want to straightline hanging over the edge. Run the sled-plus-plank through the saw. You can use Destaco clamps to hold the plank to the sled if you're feeling fancy. But a screw at each end of the plank is a lot easier. Put the screw right near the end of the plank, in wood that you're likely going to cut off because it has end-checks anyhow.

Of course, if you can persuade yourself to not use your Tannewitz, a track saw does a really good job of straightlining.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Oh - man. A simple question with a million answers.

I'll go first - this is just one way - others will be coming. Pick the one you like.

1. The objective is to hold the board securely as it passes through the blade, but with the rip fence way off to the side. The problem you are avoiding is kickback from an uneven edge against the fence.
2. Chunk of 3/4" plywood. Sat 12" - 18" wide, 8' long.
3. Put a piece of 3/4/" x 3/8" [approx] hardwood on it to run in the miter slot ont eh TS table.
4. Tee-track. Say, 4 pieces. Inset into the ply and running across the narrow dimension.
5. 4 clamps [link below] with knobs that slide in the tee-track to adjust for width, and then lock down the jig.
6. RUn the empty jig throught the TS to cut an edge. Now you know where the TS blade will cut.
7. Put the rough board on the jig, overhanging the cutting edge just barely enough, tighten the clamps, cut a straight egde.
8. Joint [or not] that edge, and use it agains the TS fence to cut a parallel 2d edge.

http://www.rockler.com/mini-deluxe-hold-down-clamp?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CNX6t5aGs8MCFYU7aQodb7gADg

THe other way I do it is this:

Draw a straight line on the board.
Go to the bandsaw, and follow that line as closely as possible. Freehand.
That edge should be good enough to go to the jointer and get a perfect edge. May take a few more passes than normal - that depends on how good you are following the line on your BS.

[John Schweikert]

Funny how topics coincide on other forums too with decent discussions. Whether it's allowed or not, here is the same question on Wooden Boat forum I read regularly:

{ forum wooden boat dot com search on straight edge }

Same topics on other forums are useful. No need to reinvent answers that are already out there. Not everyone has access to the same tools or has the same needs or skills. Unless you have a huge shop with tremendous infeed and outfeed for a table saw, an 8ft plywood rip sled is a bit much.

[Jim Becker]

Flatten on the jointer and then thickness on the planer. At that point you have a board that you can put a straight edge on that will be perpendicular to the faces. The actual edge cut depends on your equipment. If you have a traditional cabinet or contractor's style saw, you may need to tack a known straight edge on one side of the board to ride along your rip fence to get your first edge cut. If you have a track saw, things should be self-explanatory. I have a sliding table saw, so once that board is flat and a constant thickness, I just clamp the board to the sliding "wagon" and run that first edge that way.

[Keith Jackowski]

I had a feeling I'd get some great answers. I do have a 13" thickness planer but no jointer. I also have a 14" Delta band saw but not sure I'll have enough surface area on it to run a nearly 10' long board. I think the widest board I'll be working with is maybe 6 inches. Should I run all of the boards through the planer first and then work on the straight edge?

I'll be doing most of the work myself, my wife is not very handy in a shop and my son is too busy with college. Lucky me I have a 3 car heated garage so I'll be spending my weekends for the next couple months out there.

[Shawn Pixley]

Four ways:

Table saw with straightline / tapering jig
bandsaw
skillsaw with guide or track saw
handsaw

I've done them all. Normally, I'd use the tablesaw with a striaightline jig. I made my jig out of scrap and hold down clamps.

[Keith Jackowski]

I have the original rip fence on the Tannewitz, I'm thinking I'm going to get a big piece of plywood. All of the wood have been air dried for a few years so I'm hoping it shouldn't be a problem cutting and not gumming up the blade. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions as the project progresses. Thanks everyone.

[M Toupin]

Running rough lumber though a table saw is a recipe for kick back or worse. I just had this conversation with a co-worker today who was showing me his "war wounds" from a TS kickback with rough lumber over the weekend. Lucky all he got was a nice bruise in the hip. A table saw is designed for flat lumber, that is, with at least one flat side (without wind) to ride the table and one jointed edge to ride the fence or miter gauge. How you get that flat reference face and edge is up to you wither it be a jointer and planer, handle planes, some creative router jigs or some other means. You might get away with it on a under powered contractors saw you can stall or overpower, but a real cabinet saw isn't going to be very forgiving. I have no idea what a "'27 Tannewitz" is, but I do know all the Tannewitz TS I've ever been around were serious industrial machines with a minimum of 5ph and most 7.5-10hp. Play loose and free with them and they will not be forgiving. If you're going for the "rough look" stick with a bandsaw and hand tools, otherwise thickness and edge your lumber first, then run it though the TS.

Mike

[Mike Heidrick]

Depends how rough. I flatten a face on teh jointer, The take that face to the jointer fence and joint an edge. I then use the flat face on teh TS and the jointed edge on the fence and rip to width. Then plane to thickness.

Other variables are I take to the planer after the jointer, then rip on teh TS or crosscut on the scms.

You can do a lot with a flat face and a straight edge 90 degrees to that face.

[Jesse Busenitz]

when I'm using rough lumber I break my boards down into shorter lengths or whatever my project calls for before I try and get a straight edge on them.

[Bill Huber]

There are a bunch of good ideas above and they will all work.

This is just the way I do it.

I run the board though the planer until I have one nice smooth side.
Now I flip the board over and run the other side, this gives me 2 parallel faces.
Now depending on how long the board is I will use the skill saw and a guide for long boards.
For shorter boards I just use my tapering jig on the table saw. My jig rides on the fence so I can use it with a some what wide board.

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[Yonak Hawkins]

Last edited by Jim Becker; Yesterday at 9:26 PM. Reason: Direct links to other forums not permitted by TOS

Why aren't links to other forums permitted ? Shouldn't our commitment to better woodworking be independent of the source of good information ?

[Randy Red Bemont]

You're not talking a ton of lumber. Can the place you're buying the lumber from straight line rip the wood for you? How about surface plane it also? It will save you a lot of time. Sounds like you don't have all the equipment you need to really build furniture. It's doable without the equipment just don't get frustrated because it will show in the work. Good luck and post some pics as you go along.

Red

[Kevin Bourque]

I just ripped a piece of 5/4 x 14" hickory on my TS for some barn doors I'm building.

I screwed a straight piece of wood to the top of of the hickory, overhanging it about 1".
I ran this edge against the table saw fence.
Then I removed the straightedge , flipped the board, and cut it to width.

Worked like a charm.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I just ripped a piece of 5/4 x 14" hickory on my TS for some barn doors I'm building.

I screwed a straight piece of wood to the top of of the hickory, overhanging it about 1".
I ran this edge against the table saw fence.
Then I removed the straightedge , flipped the board, and cut it to width.

Worked like a charm.

For barn doors, screw holes aren't a big deal but there are less invasive methods that could be used for indoor furniture.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Keith, as others have said use a piece of ply and toggle clamps.

I have a sliding saw and straight line my material rough, that reduces the passes through the jointer.

You'll still need a jointer and planer to convert it from rough to final form.............Rod.

[Keith Jackowski]

I have no idea what a "'27 Tannewitz" is, but I do know all the Tannewitz TS I've ever been around were serious industrial machines with a minimum of 5ph and most 7.5-10hp.
Mike

My Bad, it's a 1927 Tannewitz model F TS. Yes, it's a beast!

[Keith Jackowski]

I don't have a jointer but I do have a planer. I'm going to try and plane the one side flat and use the ply jig everyone is refering to and use the TS. I will cut the boards down to workable lengths first so I don't kill myself messing with a 10 footer. I'll do it this weekend and report my results. If you don't hear back by Monday, I either seriously injured myself or I just got too lazy. :D

[Erik Christensen]

tracksaw with rip blade

[Art Mann]

Here is a general suggestion that may help, depending on the circumstances. If possible, cut your boards to rough length according to your design before you machine to accurate dimensions. For example, if your design calls for a 42" long board that is 4 1/4" wide, cut a section of your raw material down to a little longer than 42" to start with. It is a lot easier to straighten and dimension a 44" long rough sawn plank than a 96" one. This may be self evident.

[Scott Shepherd]

Why aren't links to other forums permitted ? Shouldn't our commitment to better woodworking be independent of the source of good information ?

That's a simple one Yonak. Sawmillcreek is a family friendly forum with a lot of younger woodworkers reading it as well. There's no way to control the content of what's on someone else's forum. It would be quite possible that someone could come to SMC, click on a link, that link could take someone to a site that's not approved by their parents, or has content not suitable for children. They would have gotten that exposure by clicking on a link on SMC, and that's not something that's desirable. Many people that post are unaware of how many young readers are actually reading posts and learning from the experience here.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Why aren't links to other forums permitted ? Shouldn't our commitment to better woodworking be independent of the source of good information ?

The reasons are clarified here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?119252-Clarification-of-SawMill-Creek-s-Links-Policy

[Yonak Hawkins]

That's a simple one Yonak. Sawmillcreek is a family friendly forum with a lot of younger woodworkers reading it as well. There's no way to control the content of what's on someone else's forum. It would be quite possible that someone could come to SMC, click on a link, that link could take someone to a site that's not approved by their parents, or has content not suitable for children. They would have gotten that exposure by clicking on a link on SMC, and that's not something that's desirable. Many people that post are unaware of how many young readers are actually reading posts and learning from the experience here.

Thanks for responding, Scott. My two responses would be that there are parental controls that restrict access by minors and, regarding Sawmill Creek taking heat for providing a link to unproven sites, all readers know that a link inside a poster's message are the responsibility of the poster and not of the sponsoring site. That a public forum-type site should need to control or be responsible for other-site content linked to by independent contributors is a passé notion.

Thank you for allowing my opinion.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Running rough lumber though a table saw is a recipe for kick back or worse. I just had this conversation with a co-worker today who was showing me his "war wounds" from a TS kickback with rough lumber over the weekend. Lucky all he got was a nice bruise in the hip. A table saw is designed for flat lumber.....

Mike

Mike -

Your comments get the infamous "Yeah, but......" :p

Yeah, your points are correct in general terms, but.............

The objective of the methods descibed here is to firmly hold the rough board in place and in line, but WITHOUT letting the rip fence contact the rough, uneven edge.

Look at Huber's photo - the board is clamped to the plywood, and the edge of the plywood runs along the fence. No chance of kickback, assuming he keeps the plywood against the fence through the cut. Which is very easy to do, because he has the clamps to hold onto for the push.

My version looks very similar to Bill's, except I have a runner underneath to ride in the miter slot. Also, I use a combination of those nifty blue clamps and Destako clamps - the destakos give me better range of "grab"- IMO - for 6/4+ stuff - amay not be a legit issue, but that's just the way I do it. Again, no chance of kickback at all - my fence would be out of the photo.

You could do your coworker a big favor, and send him a link to this thread. Don't want him getting hurt simply because he hasn't learned about this type of jig. Avoiding kickback is a big-time legit issue, even with straight edges. No need to make life more complicated than it has to be.

[Kent A Bathurst]

......all readers know that a link inside a poster's message are the responsibility of the poster and not of the sponsoring site. That a public forum-type site should need to control or be responsible for other-site content linked to by independent contributors is a passé notion.

The lawyers and the insurers behind SMC would not be fond of your approach, unfortunately. Welcome to modern-day liability and miniscule filing fees for any crazy topic.

The Mods can control what is posted here - and they do that on a variety of fronts. Content at other sitess cannot, and should not, be on their list.

[Yonak Hawkins]

The reasons are clarified here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?119252-Clarification-of-SawMill-Creek-s-Links-Policy

Thanks for the link to that additional explanation, Andrew. My response would be the same as the one to Scott.

Let me just add :

What is paramount, in the interest of those of who love woodworking, who are the reason for this site, is the dissemination of good woodworking knowledge and information which many of the fine woodworkers who contribute to this site provide. That's what makes this site invaluable.

[Yonak Hawkins]

The lawyers and the insurers behind SMC would not be fond of your approach, unfortunately. Welcome to modern-day liability and miniscule filing fees for any crazy topic.

The Mods can control what is posted here - and they do that on a variety of fronts. Content at other sitess cannot, and should not, be on their list.

..But links to other non-forum sites are allowed, according to the TOC.

[Mike Goetzke]

tracksaw with rip blade

+1 (I do this all the time)

[Jim Andrew]

I have a bandmill and saw my own lumber, so I have some live edge boards. I used to keep a 6' straight edge handy, and clamped the board to my outfeed table, and just used a circular saw to cut a somewhat straight edge. Now I use my slider to put a very good straight edge on the boards. It is straighter than what I can get with my jointer. Ready to glue into a panel.

[Ole Anderson]

I'm with Jesse and Art. First I rough cut it to length so I am working with shorter pieces so you loose less to eliminating the bow. Often by then I am able to get one flat side on my jointer then take it to the TS to finish up after. If you don't have a jointer, how are you gong to get one flat face to run through your planer? My local mill charges almost nothing to flatten and plane it while you wait. Dealing with the edges is another matter, they don't do it while you wait so I never have them do the edges but always have them thickness plane to +1/16". If you must work with 8' lengths, a track saw is your friend.

[Brian W Smith]

Rough cut length with a circ saw........snap or draw a straight line and cut it on the bandsaw.Then move towards surfacing.TS's and "rough cut" anything,isn't what we do.Best of luck with your build.

[M Toupin]

Your comments get the infamous "Yeah, but......".

Back at ya...

I'm not a fan of the jig in that configuration. The problem with those type jigs is the lumber is placed on top of the carrier and the off-cut is unsupported. At the end of the cut the waste drops to the table uncontrolled and can find it's way into the blade and cause a kick back, especially with thin strips. Granted, not a trapped kick-back were the wood is trapped between the blade and fence, but a outside edge kick-back were the blade contacts the off-cut and propels it back at the operator. Been there, done that... It's exciting with a 10" contractors or cabinet saw, but keep in mind the OP is using a Tannewitz type-F which swings a 16"-18" blade and direct drive 5+hp. When things go south with large saws like his they go south quick and bad. That's not to say the saw is scary or dangerous, but it does deserve a level of respect above your run of the mill contractors or cabinet saw.

But I digress: I'll stick with my original premise that the best method is to straight line the edge before going to the TS whether that be with a jointer, track saw, hand plane, router and track, pocket knife... pick your method. If you must use a jig on the TS then a better method is to ride the lumber on the table and attach the straight edge to the top of the lumber wither that be with screws, double stick tape, hot glue or whatever you're choice. That way the off-cut stays on the table and more controlled during and after the cut.

I'll never be confused with a safety nut, but if there's a better way - use it.

But then again, if you're comfortable with your method great, have at it.

Mike

[Harold Burrell]

THe other way I do it is this:

Draw a straight line on the board.
Go to the bandsaw, and follow that line as closely as possible. Freehand.
That edge should be good enough to go to the jointer and get a perfect edge. May take a few more passes than normal - that depends on how good you are following the line on your BS.

This is an especially good method if the boards you are using are wider than your jointer and you want to use as much of the wood as possible for making panels. For instance, I am currently working on a large tabletop. I have rough cut boards that are 8+" wide, but I only have a 6" jointer. Instead of ripping everything down to 6" (and then throwing away the rest), I am ripping them in half on the BS (as described above) and working both halves.

[Kent A Bathurst]

.... At the end of the cut the waste drops to the table uncontrolled and can find it's way into the blade and cause a kick back, especially with thin strips. Granted, not a trapped kick-back were the wood is trapped between the blade and fence.........

Fair point. I had not considered the potential for kickback from the offcut side.

To be honest, I have never seen that happen. I have seen some "creep back" where the blade rotation skims the edge of the offcut and it slowly creeps, but never anything at speed. Not saying can't happen...

Thanks for the yeahbut, Mike.

[Yonak Hawkins]

.... At the end of the cut the waste drops to the table uncontrolled and can find it's way into the blade and cause a kick back, especially with thin strips. Granted, not a trapped kick-back were the wood is trapped between the blade and fence.........

With no fence involved I wouldn't think there'd be a serious kickback from the back of the blade, unless there were something really pressing on it. A jump from the front I'd be wary of.

[Bill Huber]

Back at ya...

I'm not a fan of the jig in that configuration. The problem with those type jigs is the lumber is placed on top of the carrier and the off-cut is unsupported. At the end of the cut the waste drops to the table uncontrolled and can find it's way into the blade and cause a kick back, especially with thin strips. Granted, not a trapped kick-back were the wood is trapped between the blade and fence, but a outside edge kick-back were the blade contacts the off-cut and propels it back at the operator. Been there, done that... It's exciting with a 10" contractors or cabinet saw, but keep in mind the OP is using a Tannewitz type-F which swings a 16"-18" blade and direct drive 5+hp. When things go south with large saws like his they go south quick and bad. That's not to say the saw is scary or dangerous, but it does deserve a level of respect above your run of the mill contractors or cabinet saw.

But I digress: I'll stick with my original premise that the best method is to straight line the edge before going to the TS whether that be with a jointer, track saw, hand plane, router and track, pocket knife... pick your method. If you must use a jig on the TS then a better method is to ride the lumber on the table and attach the straight edge to the top of the lumber wither that be with screws, double stick tape, hot glue or whatever you're choice. That way the off-cut stays on the table and more controlled during and after the cut.

I'll never be confused with a safety nut, but if there's a better way - use it.

But then again, if you're comfortable with your method great, have at it.

Mike

So lets forget about rough cut lumber and lets say you want to make a tapered lag or any tapered cut.

I have used my jig to cut many many tapers and a lots of edge straightening of boards and have never had the off cut do anything but fall to the table and just set there.

I just do not see how in the world, even without a splitter of some type the cut could cause a kickback. In the case of putting a straight edge on a board the off cut will be very small and in some cases just saw dust.

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[Curt Harms]

when I'm using rough lumber I break my boards down into shorter lengths or whatever my project calls for before I try and get a straight edge on them.

If you can do it, that makes life simpler a few ways. Lighter, more maneuverable, less waste getting one face flat come immediately to mind.

[Kent A Bathurst]

This is an especially good method if the boards you are using are wider than your jointer and you want to use as much of the wood as possible for making panels. For instance, I am currently working on a large tabletop. I have rough cut boards that are 8+" wide, but I only have a 6" jointer. Instead of ripping everything down to 6" (and then throwing away the rest), I am ripping them in half on the BS (as described above) and working both halves.

Harold - I end up running the BS most often because I have chalk-lined the parts on the rough wood, to get the grain to look "right", and that does not always follow the edge of the board.

[M Toupin]

I just do not see how in the world, even without a splitter of some type the cut could cause a kickback.

Never had a small off-cut work it's way back into the edge of the blade and kick back? I had it happen just the other day.

But like I said before, if you're comfortable with your method, have at it.

Mike