Need recommendation for durable 1 5/8" hole saw

[Ron Humphrey]

Anyone with experience? I am considering a project that will require cutting hundreds of 1 5/8" holes in 1/2" hardwood. What type/brand of hole cutter is likely to give the best performance for the longest time? A cursory search of hole saws show "carbide tipped" and full carbide. Often the information talks of cutting metal. These are not inexpensive and I would like to avoid making a mistake.

Thanks for any help.

[Bill Orbine]

Carbide forstner bit. Good with the drill press. Free hand, not so much.

[Ron Humphrey]

Any recommendations top quality brand(s) for this? I will assuredly be using a drill press.

[pat warner]

Tool (upper left (http://www.patwarner.com/images/drilling_tools.jpg)) made to drill all day in wood. AKA: 3 wing carbide drill/cutter.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks for the info Pat. That sure looks like a great option. If my product idea takes off, the price would not be an issue. At around $180, I may try to wear out a cabide forstner on protoypes and early production before getting one of those. I appreciate your input. I would not have found this idea just googling.

[Bill Orbine]

Specifically...the best (or better)brand forstner bit, I can't tell you. I have a couple 1 3/8" for European hinges I bought YEARS ago. I do not have a manufacturer name on the bit. These forstner bit have lasted a long time (and they still work great). The carbide has lasted so much longer than the regular forstner bit. The regular forstner bit have tendency to dull so soon and start burning. So I'll take a gamble and recommend you the Roman carbide forstner bit offered by amazon: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/176-7845343-9410602?url=search-alias%3Dindustrial&field-keywords=carbide+forstner+bits+1+5%2F8&rh=n%3A16310091%2Ck%3Acarbide+forstner+bits+1+5%2F 8

The Roman bit looks very much like what I have and for under 18 bucks, you can't go so wrong.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks for the feedback Bill. Much appreciated.

[Matt Krusen]

I use Forstner bits by Freud and CMT Orange Tools. Both have worked great and done all that I ask of them.

[Mike Cutler]

Ron

I would give WL Fuller in Rhode Island a call. If it's used to drill or bore a hole, they make it. They also do custom work.

Here is a link to their catalog. The bits you're looking for start on page 72, or 73.

http://wlfuller.com/html/catalog.html

[Jamie Buxton]

A holesaw doesn't work real well in the usual drill press. The problem is that the saw has no way to clear the sawdust. It stays in the cut and interferes with the cutting action. The saw blade heats up, and can even scorch the workpiece. When used horizontally, like a plumber uses it, the holesaw works much better because the sawdust can drip out.

[Ole Anderson]

I have a bit like Pat is suggesting and have used it for countersinking a bolt head in aluminum. But it requires a pilot hole first, which would slow down any production run. A "hole saw" is not what you want for production work, ejecting the plug is a pain and they just aren't as accurate as to diameter as they tend to wobble. Go with a carbide Forstner. They cut very fast. As with any bit, tear out on the bottom can be a problem if you don't back it up. For production, I would look at backing it up with an aluminum plate and a quick hold down clamp.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks Matt, I'm generally pleased with my router bits from either brand.

[Bill Huber]

Ron, just don't buy cheap !!!!!

I just bought a cheap 2 1/2" Forstner bits when I got it I don't think it would cut hot butter, I had to sharpen it first which took a while, it was really dull.

I have been drilling 2" to 2 1/4" holes in 3/8" stock and found the best way is to have a jig to set the work part in and drill just a little short of all the way though. Then flip the part over and drill it from the other side, makes for a better looking cut and you don't get tear out.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks Bill, I learned that lesson also. Even with a sharp bit there is a good chance for tear-out, especially if your speed of cut is too fast. I think I will stick to a name brand, carbide tipped bit.

[Robert LaPlaca]

With that many holes, how about FAMAG brand forstner bits.. FWW rated FAMAG brand bits the best forstner bits, a 1 5/8" is going to run $55 - 60..

[Erich Larson]

+1 on FAMAG. They come in two grades. Get the BOREMAX.

[Rick Lizek]

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45533&cat=1,180,42240
In the large factories and commercial shops the multi spur or sawtooth bits are the go to bits. HSS bits of this type are easy to quickly sharpen. Fuller, Morris Woodtool, Forest city used to be go guys. We find the Lee Valley saw tooth just as good for a better price. Carbide is better for thousands of holes in melamine, laminate, particle board but HSS will be fine for your needs. Not to be confused with softer carbon steel.

[Ron Humphrey]

Thanks for your input Rick. Are you saying the trade-off for HSS vs Carbide is ease of sharpening vs longer life without sharpening and HSS will give me hundreds of holes between sharpenings?

[Rick Lizek]

Thanks for your input Rick. Are you saying the trade-off for HSS vs Carbide is ease of sharpening vs longer life without sharpening and HSS will give me hundreds of holes between sharpenings?

Yes. For $16.80 try the lee valley saw tooth bits. Easily can drill hundreds of holes. Forstner bits are over rated as most haven't used the other options it appears. Having spent 45 years in factories and commercial shops Iv'e seen more than the FWW subscriber. Iv'e dealt extensively with the major tooling makers and sharpening services.

[Ron Humphrey]

I consider myself a neophyte at woodworking and getting info from those that have done it / lived it is so much better than reading marketing blather Thanks again.