Routing curves, arches, and such

[Dave Novak]

When I need to produce curves, arches, and such I typically build templates out of MDF and use my router. This eliminates most of the errors introduced by my inaccurate sawing. However, it almost never eliminates 100% since even though I try to cut close to the line then sand to the line I'll still frequently booger things up at times. What do you guys think of this?

http://www.toolnut.com/CMT_TMP_1200_Flexible_Router_Template_p/tmp-1200.htm?utm_source=CMT+Curved+Template+for+Routin g&utm_campaign=CMT+Curved+Template+for+Routing&utm_medium=email

Has anyone used one? I've got drawers full of the next wiz-bang thing that really doesn't work very well for me, thought I'd see if anyone here has any experience with it. Thanks.

[Mel Fulks]

I looked at the link and am glad to know about it. But for anything requiring two equidistant edges I don't see how it would help. I smooth circular templates using a piece of the edge waste for a block. For one curved edge it might be of some help.

[John TenEyck]

What do I think? Not much, frankly. I know it's not always easy to create fair curves, but it's like any other woodworking skill - practice, practice, practice, and don't accept problems you can still see in your templates. I often use 1/4" thick Masonite, which is thin enough to sand easily by hand. I also use a compass plane when possible because it's much easier to create smooth, fair curves with it than a sanding block or spindle sander.

John

[Jamie Buxton]

Hmm.. So that piece of plastic is flexible enough to bend to your curve, but not flex under the pressure of the bit's guide bearing? Seems magic.

[Bruce Wrenn]

One of the best things to do with any template is to duplicate it before use. It's called creating a "Master."

[JUSTIN HUISENGA]

You can do the same thing with Azek strips and a pinner. I keep odd scraps from exterior projects around for situations like this. If the curve gets tight you use a heat gun to form it as you nail.