How much does one really need to spend on a new drill press?

[Jared Walters]

I'm searching for a new drill press. I am not interested in buying a used one at the moment. My budget goes up to $1400 out to door, but that is top dollar and less is better. It must be floor standing. The trouble is that I see rave reviews about models ranging anywhere from $350 all the way up to my $1400 maximum. I need some help to understand how models compare to each other and what I'm really getting for the extra money. Here are a few models I have researched, any other info you can provide about them would be great.

1. Porter Cable 8-amp 12-speed (PCB660DP) - $320 at Lowes

Reviewers are acting like this drill press is the best kept secret in power tools and claiming it compares to models three-four times its price. Is it really that good? I have actually used this press before, at a workshop in college, but it was very poorly maintained and couldn't drill a straight hole to save its life. Also depth adjustment was hard to use and sloppy (again probably because it wasn't cared for). How is it holding up for others in more "loving" environments? I prioritize quality and long-term durability over low price.

2. Jet 17" Drill Presses (JDP-17DX and JDP-17) - $599 and $740 approx.

I have some confusion over these two presses. The model numbers are nearly the same and the specs are nearly identical (I'm sure there are differences I'm not noticing)... but the design is wildly different. I would assume that the alien-looking JDP-17 is a newer model, but Jet still lists both on their website. Both of these presses are well reviewed. I really like the big woodworking-style tables. I like the price point... but are they high quality machines or are they about the same as the Porter Cable and being sold at a premium for the name? Also which one of the two do you like better?

3. Delta 18" Drill press (18-900L) - $1050 approx.

I am extremely impressed by the features of this press. On paper it seriously looks too good to be true. The table is big, it's extremely adjustable, the belt change system is easy, really long spindle travel, lots of different speeds, gooseneck light, quick depth-stop adjustments etc. My concern is that everywhere it is reviewed, people complain about quality control. This scares me a little... the most concerning was an Amazon review talking about the foot of the press snapping off the column (complete with photos). Although the features and specs look amazing, I don't want it unless it lasts for a LONG time... and I don't want to devote tons of effort into fixing defects that should have been corrected before it left the factory. I haven't seen this press in person so i don't know how sturdy it actually is. Has anyone on here had this press for a while and able to vouch for it?

4. Powermatic (PM2800B) - $1400 approx.

I don't have much experience with Powermatic tools, but I know they have held a good reputation in the past and they are a premium brand. I'm also pretty sure this drill press is made in China (presumably all the others are imported as well). So this press has me concerned that I would be overpaying just for the name. One thing I like is that you can adjust the speed with the lever on the side, but I'm also concerned that it overcomplicates a simple mechanism and would be more prone to issues. It does have a powerful motor and 6" of travel like the Delta, but the table seems kind of gimmicky and the expanding 'wings?' are supported by a plastic mechanism, which seems cheap for a tool that costs this much. I would have just preferred a larger table. Do you all think it's worth the price?

Sorry for writing a novel about this... I spend a lot of time researching everything I buy and the creek has always been a valuable and trusted source of knowledge. Also I would love to know of any other good drill presses that I may have looked over.

[Myk Rian]

Out of all those, Delta last, Powermatic first.

[Lee Reep]

Out of all those, Delta last, Powermatic first.

Ditto that. Delta DPs have received a lot of bad press lately (sorry ...). The Powermatic has gotten very good reviews. I have a Powermatic 14" bandsaw and love it. I'm not sure about now, but when I bought my bandsaw about 5 years ago, it was made in Taiwan, which was considered a step up from products from mainland China at the time. When tool manufacturers left the USA, many often went to Japan, then later Taiwan, and then mainland China. Frankly, unless you are looking at really cheap Harbor Freight stuff, a lot of mainland China products are very well built. (Harbor Freight does have a few gems. I bought one of their 7X14 mini metal lathes 10 years ago and it was very well built.)

It is getting almost impossible to buy anything new that is not made in China. I'd like to get a 16" Laguna bandsaw for resawing, and dedicate my Powermatic for scrolling cuts. At this point I'd go for Laguna's Italian model, which does come at a premium price over their Chinese model.

I was ready to get the Powermatic, but I am holding off until I see Teknatool's drill press that uses the DVR technology on the motor, like their Nova DVR-XP lathes. I'd love having a really big drill press over the benchtop model I have, but the Teknatool looked like such a great alternative to both.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAYqM-SV0m8

[Art Mann]

Speaking of Chinese, I bought a huge industrial drill press with a 1.5 horsepower motor from Harbor Freight (don't laugh) several years ago. As I recall, it cost around $250 with super coupon. I have used it quite regularly since then and it has performed very well. You can hardly stall it with a 3 1/2 inch Forstner bit. I did have some initial problems adapting it to woodworking as it was obviously built for metal work. The only problem I have experienced is a broken power switch. The thing is extremely ugly. The castings are crude and the finish is pretty rough. However, the parts that really mattered were machined accurately. With the level of good service I have gotten out of it, it was a good buy for me.

[Bill Space]

What do you want to use it for? Wood or metal. Metal is more demanding in my experience.

Don't laugh too loud, but while I have a 20" drill press that I use for metal, for wood my Shopsmith wins hands down for convenience and overall capability, including horizontal boring. Bought a couple Shopsmiths for under $200 used with accessories (including 11" bandsaws) so they are a great value used if you watch local adds.

But for metal... Best to go the normal floor type drill press I believe.

Lots of nice used drill presses and Shopsmiths seem to be out there if you watch/wait for them. As for new...do not know what is best...

[glenn bradley]

For an alternate view; the PM2800B has the same quill slop that its predecessor did but, they solved some of the other issues for only $400 more ;-) The Delta 18-900 was reigning supreme until Delta fell apart and now its anybody's guess as to how that will eventually firm up again.

As to whether you can find a decent woodworking drill press at any price will depend on what you need one to do. Having made a habit of putting my hands on any drill press I see in a vain search for a quality tool I have found NONE that do not find 1/32" to 1/16" of up and down slop in the quill to be considered high quality. This makes drilling consistent depth holes with a greater tolerance than that pretty impossible.

The new Steel City 17" is all about variable speed but, with a low end limit of 500 RPM it is useless to me. The new Jet 16-1/2" is also variable speed and with a low end of 230 RPM could be usable for most things but, the build quality was pretty rough for a machine in this price bracket. If it would have had a decently controlled quill I would have jumped at the price and to blazes with the rough casting edges that you can file off yourself.

I know this sounds like pre-purchase sour grapes but, I have narrowed my testing down to about 5 seconds as to whether a drill press is on the list or not (right now there is no list, none make it). I lower the quill a couple of inches and grab it with my free hand. If I get a thunk-a-thunk-a-thunk when I lift up and down and there is no adjustment to correct it, I move on. Its been a long and lonely road. More depressing is that I know I will eventually have to replace my Delta 17-950 (overgrown Shopmaster format) and take the machine that meets as many of my needs as possible while learning to ignore the needs it doesn't ;-)

Grizzly was supposed to come out with a new DP that would rock our WWing world but, the new release is a metalworking machine. Still I wait and think about the 1940's Delta I gave away that was superior to anything I have found today, just too short a swing . . . . List your priorities; speed range, power, accuracy, table attributes, etc. and review your list.

[eugene thomas]

I must be lucky because I bought the pm 2800 and have had no problems with it...

[Jared Walters]

Oh man very bleak outlook here haha.

[Mike Cutler]

Based on the spec's alone I'd be looking seriously at the Delta. 170 RPM is pretty low. It's not milling machine low, but it's pretty low. Quill travel is the same as the Powermatic.
I don't know if the negative reviews mentioned are specific to this drill press, but over the past few years a few folks here on the board have purchased them, and seem to like them. Sometimes a product can go to pot quick in just a few years so I would definitely do some looking and touching.

However, at a grand plus for the Delta, and Powermatic at $1400.00, you're getting into intro level Milling Machine price range. $1400.00 gets you into a milling machine, based on the Rong Fu model that's been around for a couple of decades. Just painted different colors. Low RPM is 140, with about an inch less quill travel. Something to consider.

[Sean Walker]

I myself own the Porter Cable and love it. I just don't see the need to spend a lot of money for a drill press. This is my opinion only though. As long as it drills straight, has enough power, what else do you need? The Porter Cable has plenty of power, drills straight, has a light and a laser. I will admit that the base that came with mine is a little warped and doesn't sit exactly flat, but a little shim fixes that right up.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

My personal opinion, spending more than a couple hundred bucks on a drill press for woodworking is crazy. Woodworking is such an easy life for a drill press, you really don't need a feature laden uber press to make a very nice drill press. Don't we all make our own jigs/tables no matter what anyhow?

[John Coloccia]

re: quill slop
Any of the new, "modern" drill presses are going to have lots of quill slop....or maybe none. That's because they are not split head designs, nor are they properly hard chromed and lapped like a Bridgeport mill, for example. So you get what you get what you get in terms of cheap, Chiwanese construction. I think Steel City might make a split head drill press, but the low speed is 500RPM, and that's just way too high for a woodworking DP, IMHO. The table is lousy too.

I wouldn't touch Delta with a 10' pole...or 20' pole....or a 0.5 decametre pole (for my European friends). If you have any sort of problem, you may well be stuck with a $1000 boat anchor that is impossible to fix.

In the $1000 to $1500 range, I'd be looking at a used Clausing.

re: mill drills
There's nothing particularly wrong with a mill drill, but there can be drawbacks depending on how you use it:

1) larger swing gets expensive pretty quickly
2) you often compromise the top end speed
3) personally, I think you'll miss the ability to move the table up and down to accommodate your work
4) no drill press table...you might be surprised how inconvenient it can be to do woodworking on a mill bed.

And of course, there are all of the benefits too. It all depends how you use it.

[lowell holmes]

I bought a cheap 12" Delta from Lowes about 10 years ago. It has been a good machine.

I can't speak to the quality of their current machines. I have a 16 year old contractor's saw that's been an excellent machine.

[Paul Wunder]

+1 on Harbor Freight (on selected items). I have their 38142 model drill press with 16 speeds and a one horse motor. I believe the lowest speed is about 225 rpm which is slow enough to swing some wide bits. Mine is a huge bench model but it also comes in a floor model. As an earlier poster said....it is ugly.......but it makes pretty holes. It has been very reliable for the past three years.

[Mike Heidrick]

Steel City made a 17" press that is awesome and can still be found new. Large Bearings and MT2, 6" quill stroke, and split head to adjust for any wear throughout its life. There were even some models with a reeves drive VS. I had one (back when it was $4775 brand new no reeves VS) and only sold it when I bought a RF30 MillDrill (amazing drill press) and a King Seeley (only because it was a steal). I still 99% use the shopsmith drill press though for wood projects. That table is awesome and the VS is sweet too. Also Grizzly has some good imports as well.

18-900L is nice and I would risk not needing CS in the future on it and not getting a rebate on it vs the slop I saw even on a local PM2800B. Both are a ton of cash for a WW drill press though.

I would buy a used one.

[Trevor Remster]

Uhmmm...I've been down this road. Just absolutely a crap shoot. You either live with potential quality problems(runout, quill slop), or design issues as it relates to woodworker needs(lower limit on spindle speed too high, small table, short quill stroke). I ended up with a used Bridgeport Mill, but that is obviously overkill and not really feasible for most people. Good luck rolling the dice on this one.

[Dave Lehnert]

I have a cheap, no name, floor drill press I purchased for $99 at a closeout type store about 15 years ago. The adjustments are crude, the handles are cheap plastic.
Having said that, That press is 100% accurate.
Like others have said. I think its luck what you get.

+1 for the Shopsmith as a drill press. It's made for woodworking but takes up a lot of room if that's all it will be used for.

[Ron Kellison]

For my money, I would look around for an old (vintage) drill press. You can find great old Deltas, Powermatics, Buffalo, Walker-Turner, etc. in good working condition for $2-300. Worst case you might have to replace a couple bearings and put some JB Weld in the smile on the table. Spend the money you save on other gear!

[david minnery]

I had a Jet 17DX for about 3 years. The head casting cracked, it was a manufacture defect and covered under warranty. The press was pretty good, though I could have used a longer quill travel. I did have some slop in the travel, but it was acceptable. The one thing that I did not like was the chuck, it was horrible. I had a lot of bits slip.
To replace it, I ended up getting a great deal on a powermatic, the newer model. It was a floor model that I picked up at a powermatic/jet surplus shop.
It's a great press. It is stout with no slope, It has a fence which was not on the jet. You can also change speeds on the fly, which is not a big deal to me. The lights are LED, which is much better than the jet.
Overall, I'm very happy with the powermatic.

[Jared Walters]

I had a Jet 17DX for about 3 years. The head casting cracked, it was a manufacture defect and covered under warranty. The press was pretty good, though I could have used a longer quill travel. I did have some slop in the travel, but it was acceptable. The one thing that I did not like was the chuck, it was horrible. I had a lot of bits slip.
To replace it, I ended up getting a great deal on a powermatic, the newer model. It was a floor model that I picked up at a powermatic/jet surplus shop.
It's a great press. It is stout with no slope, It has a fence which was not on the jet. You can also change speeds on the fly, which is not a big deal to me. The lights are LED, which is much better than the jet.
Overall, I'm very happy with the powermatic.

PM2800 or PM2800B?

[david minnery]

PM2800 or PM2800B?
I think it's the B.
I got it for 800, looks brand new.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Uhmmm...I've been down this road. Just absolutely a crap shoot. You either live with potential quality problems(runout, quill slop), or design issues as it relates to woodworker needs(lower limit on spindle speed too high, small table, short quill stroke). I ended up with a used Bridgeport Mill, but that is obviously overkill and not really feasible for most people. Good luck rolling the dice on this one.

Lol, that's classic overkill! I like it!

[Peter Aeschliman]

I myself own the Porter Cable and love it. I just don't see the need to spend a lot of money for a drill press. This is my opinion only though. As long as it drills straight, has enough power, what else do you need? The Porter Cable has plenty of power, drills straight, has a light and a laser. I will admit that the base that came with mine is a little warped and doesn't sit exactly flat, but a little shim fixes that right up.


My personal opinion, spending more than a couple hundred bucks on a drill press for woodworking is crazy. Woodworking is such an easy life for a drill press, you really don't need a feature laden uber press to make a very nice drill press. Don't we all make our own jigs/tables no matter what anyhow?

Count me in the same camp as these two gentlemen. There's lots of variation in peoples' working styles though. For me, I just don't understand the need for extreme drilling precision for woodworking. I get it if you're running a machine shop though.

[Ole Anderson]

I am not sure if it a feature on any of the machines under consideration, but for me an absolute requirement is a quill lock. Many don't have that feature. I use it almost every time I use the DP. Mine is a 20 year old Craftsman (no longer available) and has been used for production with aluminum, used it with a 5/8" mortising bit and currently has a Rockler add-on woodworkers table. Only thing missing is a table elevation crank. The skinny belt makes for quick speed changes, but I have never seen it on any other DP. I also have a mill-drill.

[Erik Manchester]

I have a used Steel City 17" DP (20520) and I find that the speed range 215-2720 is sufficient for all I require.

I particularly wanted this one for the 6" stroke and 16 speeds. I have a mortising attachment for it and the 6" stroke really is handy here.

I have built a custom table with a fence, jigs and hold downs to optimize it for woodwork and I have had no complaints.

I paid $350 for it lightly used and so far it has done all that I have asked of it.

I have an extra VFD and as soon as I scare up an inverter duty 3 phase motor for a good price I am going to swap out the motor and add a digital speed read out for convenience.

I also have an old Walker Turner 900 set up with a machinists vice that I use for metal drilling. I would love a Clausing mill drill or equivalent, as another has said, they are not optimized for woodworking.

What matters is what you require and how much you are willing to pay to get those features. Lots of good deals on used old arn but you had best be ready to act quickly as lots of folks are looking also.

[Daniel Smith]

I've had the Delta for a couple of years now and am happy with it. It's not the most heavily used tool in my shop, but it's done the job for me whenever I've needed it. I've seen the recent posts about Delta's out of the box quality and parts availability, and that would certainly concern me. I picked mine up at a significant discount when my local Rockler stopped stocking them. If you end up being serious about the Delta, you might see if someone would be willing to sell you a floor model. At least you'd know it was functional at the time of purchase.

[Jared Walters]

Lots of great advice... unfortunately used just isn't an option. I can't find anything decent in my area for used drill presses nor do I know enough about them to verify if I'm getting a good deal or just a headache. I feel like I can give some additional points of information to help narrow some options down.

I woodwork on an apartment balcony. I don't have a ton of space, but drill presses have a small footprint so they are okay. The bigger concern is keeping noise down. I have no idea what results in quieter work on a DP... is it having a smaller motor, having a larger motor (so it doesn't struggle), do the belts and variable speed adjustments make a difference, are quality bits more important than anything? It will exclusively be used for wood working. Maybe once every long while it will drill a hole or two in thin metal. It will primarily be used to start mortises (which will then be squared off with a chisel) and drill holes for lathe projects or little miscellaneous tasks.

Here is my evaluated list of priorities...

1. Quiet... if you're neighbor was using it on his balcony at 9pm would you complain about the noise?

2. It must be accurate enough... It doesn't need to be hyper-precise though. The most demandingly accurate task it will likely ever see is drilling out large holes in wooden hardwood jaws for a veritas quick release front vise. I used the poorly maintained porter cable press at the college workshop for this task and it deflected so much that the jaws are almost unusable.

3. Ease of use. My wife will be learning to use this as well and she can be easily intimidated by power tools. I don't want to have to drill every one of her pen blanks because she is afraid of messing up.

The press definitely 100% needs a woodworking style table. But it doesn't have to come with one, I can add an aftermarket table. Before anyone comments, I can't make my own. I don't have access to a table saw or a router and it's not worth the effort to try and make one without them. I would rather just pay $100 and but a premade one.

Let me push out another comparison. Lets say the choice was between an expensive drill press and cheap drill press with high end accessories. Which of the following would you say is the better choice for an overall more positive experience?

Powermatic PM2800B + Set of cheap (but usable quality) forstner bits = $1500 approx

or

Jet JDP-17DX + Large set of Colt forstner bits + Albrecht chuck + Woodpecker or Veritas table = $1400-1500 approx

[Peter Kelly]

4. Powermatic (PM2800B) - $1400 approx.For that much money, you could get a very nice used Clausing if you're willing to drive to LA. I don't advocate buying Delta stuff these days but the variable speed one on Phoenix CL looks pretty clean. Not a lot that could really go wrong with it.

$1,400 just seems excessive for a made in China drill.

[Dan Hintz]

I have the Delta 18-900L you mentioned... picked it up shortly after the model hit the store shelves and I've been quite happy with it. The 6" quill travel and multiple speeds was a must for me (though I would have preferred a VFD for changing speeds, not belts). The table is plenty large, but I ordered a Woodpecker's table to extend my clamping capabilities (I'll be adding it once my equipment shifts to my new shop at the end of the month). So quiet you'd hardly know it was running. I have owned several Jet/Powermatic items... I feel Powermatic is simply an extra fee for an ugly color compared to Jet, but overall they have decent equipment.

But you could very well get a lemon of whatever you buy, and that's never fun.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Jared
Rethink the used part. I picked up a used Powermatic 1200 for $500. Sweet drill press.

http://www.machineryassociates.com/machine-photos/Powermatic-1200-Machinery-Associates-UImZDych_800.jpg

[Mike Heidrick]

Are you rolling it in and out of the apt ever time you need it? Or storing it outside? Size and weight of the press just became and issue as I read this.

Interesting you are wanting a DP before a router.

Most drill presses are definately quieter than a router though.

[Jared Walters]

Yeah you nailed it... router is way too loud.

[Mike Heidrick]

Hmmm. OT but have you ever read up on chinese water cooled spindles? You can get a 1 hp one that will run on a 110V VFD. You would need a mount for a router lift - collars or something made but it would be quieter than a drill press even. ER11 collet sized would get you to 1/4" router bits. Get a VFd with a remote keypad or mount it high off the table and it would have 6000 to 24000 rpm speed capability. If I had that kind of sound requirements that is how my routers would be.

[Ole Anderson]

Guys, he said TWICE he won't consider used. Lay off. A drill press is the quietest piece of power equipment you will ever own. I have left the shop with mine running on occasion.

[Jared Walters]

I know they are typically quiet running, but I also know they can sometimes vibrate and squeal. I'm not sure what causes the vibration but I'm pretty sure any squealing I have experienced in the past has been from misalignment or poor quality bits.

So going back a bit... would you consider it wiser to spend less on the press and use the difference to buy a high-end chuck, woodworking table, and good bits? If thats the case what do you think of the following purchase?

- Jet, Porter Cable or Steel City drill press ($320-$600)
- Albrecht CP130 chuck... or if that is overkill then maybe a Llambrich CBB chuck ($320 or $130)
- Veritas drill press table ($100)
- Colt MaxiCut 10-piece forstner set... or Freud FB-100 16-piece forstner set ($330 or $200)
- Lee Valley HSS brad point 28-piece set ($190)

Total: $940-$1540

[Brad Schafer]

... I woodwork on an apartment balcony. I don't have a ton of space ...

having done recent relo of ppl into/out of apts, this makes me really nervous. maybe your apt is better built than the avg one, but i wouldn't want several hundred lbs of dead weight sitting on any balcony i've seen, never mind running in/out over a sill with a little drop-down. ground floor is another story, but otherwise ... yikes. i'm with Mike H on this.

[Wade Lippman]

I myself own the Porter Cable and love it. I just don't see the need to spend a lot of money for a drill press. This is my opinion only though. As long as it drills straight, has enough power, what else do you need? The Porter Cable has plenty of power, drills straight, has a light and a laser. I will admit that the base that came with mine is a little warped and doesn't sit exactly flat, but a little shim fixes that right up.

I have a PC also and love it; though I got mine used for $100.

If I had more money than I knew what to do with (or worked on a DP for 4 hours a day...) I would definitely take the Powermatic; but the PC does everything I need a DP for.

Of course if you need a special chuck, then your needs are obviously different than mine. If find the PC chuck to be use fine.

[Kent A Bathurst]

FWIW - If mobility is an issue - Had a friend buy the Jet 15" bench-mount. He is a casual user. Works great. Put it on a rolling stand. I had wheels under my first floor-mount DP - "dicey" doesn't describe it.

The 6" quill is great. I did not have that first DP, but do now [old-arn Pm 1150A-VS] - can't do without it when you do need it, but not sure it is mission-critical.

The quill lock, though - as someone noted, that is essential, IMO:
> do the layout on the part[s]
> scratch awl point for bit location
> part under the DP head; lower the head and get the bit point in the target
> hold the head down, lock the quill.
> move the fence and rotate the part to get it all set up and locked down; clamp the part
> release the quill lock and make hole[s]
> I honestly don't now how else to efficiently, quickly, accurately hit the target dead-nuts first time, every time. No trials, no practices, no misses, - -- very fast.

On the Forstner bits - my take is that 28 sizes is beyond the pale - no clue what to do with all of those sizes. I have the basic 7-pc set. All I need, except the time I rebuilt a kitchen and needed a 32mm. It is somewhere in a drawer I think.

I had some junk brand to start. Then, went with Famag. Then, Colt. Use Famag as my daily driver, and the Colts come out when there is something special going on. But - to be honest - I like them both equally well.

Last - I find that I chuck up brad point bits more often than the Forstner, FWIW. I really like the LV HSS bits - I think I bought a set, and filled in some slots - - - looks like 11 dia total in the drawer/holder.

[Jared Walters]

Don't worry about the balcony. Its big and sturdy with a cement floor and it doesn't overhang... it's cut into the building so it sits over the apartment below.

[ian maybury]

For what it's worth the position is even worse this side of the Atlantic - i've been searching for over a year while valiantly resisting the temptation to fold and buy a better quality but still questionable Eastern press. Commercially available new presses are either cheap and nasty with runout and end float, awkward belt speed changes, short spindle travel, narrow speed ranges, minimum reach, sloppy tables and usually no proper stops or locks - we don't even get woodworking oriented units like the Powermatic or the Delta. There is a variable speed higher end Jet available (looks sim to the PM 2800 - not 2800B), but there seem to be mixed reports about regarding its quality.

It's possible to go up market, but that tends to buy heavier duty presses which while much more accurate are much more expensive and still engineering oriented in terms of reach, spindle travel and speed ranges.

The standard advice is to buy a used classic, and there are a few UK models like the Fobco, Meddings and the like. Trouble is that with awareness of the demand for them the dealers are jumping on those that come up at auction, and prices have gone through the roof. (double the price of even a highish end eastern press and more)

Mill drills of eastern origin seem to be a mixed deal - patchy quality, belt speed changes and lacking design features like the ability to hold the head location while moving up and down the column. It's possible to go upmarket, but quality seems to remain a risk and they get into significant money. There's a few used Euro and US made mill drills that cover the bases that could be bought privately for decent money - stuff like the Arboga U2508. Trouble is the dealers have started to grab these too, and prices are going up. Parts can be very expensive indeed, or non available. On the positive side long spindle travel, x/y positioning, stops and locks, very wide speed ranges with easy gear lever changes and light milling capability make them a great option IF you get lucky and find a good one at decent money.

It's hard not to think that there's a gap in the market, but maybe people have got too used to dirt cheap but trashy presses.....

[Erik Manchester]

Jared,

I would not spring for the Albrecht chuck unless you are looking for a machinist quality which isn't reqr for woodworking. A good Jacobs is plenty, but that is just my opinion. I would use the savings to buy better/more drills. I have a few sets of the LV HSS brad points and they are great. If you are likely to drill metal you could consider a drill index and a set of quality bits.

Suggest that you get a good light for your DP as it helps in accuracy.

Rather than buy a bunch of Forstner bits that you will rarely use, I would buy only the ones that you will certainly use from a quality source and add as required.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Erik - PEI?

Man - I love that province. Many afternoons well spent at the oyster bar on Malpeque Bay - eating real Malpeques and drinking beer.

[Erik Manchester]

Yes Kent, that is the place. I live on a 10 acre parcel about 12 miles east of Charlottetown. The summers are very nice indeed.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Yes Kent, that is the place. I live on a 10 acre parcel about 12 miles east of Charlottetown. The summers are very nice indeed.

No kidding. Gotta confess, we always steer clear of C'town when we are there - too many tourists. We like the countryside. The Potato museum [have a Potato Muesum magnet on my fridge, no less] , stuff like that :). PLus, we avoid the hordes of Anne of Green Gables fans.

However - we have stayed at one place with an Anne connection - a place once owned by Colleen Dewhurst - now the Inn at Bay Fortune in the far NE - had a room in the tower, no less. The restaurant was outstanding as well. Very nice facility. Beautiful place if you have any visitors looking for digs.

The Malpeques have been my favorites for many years - I die when I get to the bay and eat them right out of the bay.

[Mike Schuch]

My 1960's Walker Turner 14" drill press runs at all speeds with a nice smooth hum. Both my chinawnees drill presses (Harbor freight and jet) run with a constant chunk.. chunk.. chunk.. sound that just screams "low quality". All three drill holes and have always drilled any hole I asked of them. I prefer using my Wlaker Turner even though it is smaller than the harbor freight and jet drill presses.

[Dennis Aspö]

If you want a press to rule all other drill presses then the Arboga drill press from sweden is a definite contender, floor standing, weighs a ton, 3-phase power. Definite overkill for woodworking only, but used ones go for about what you have as a budget.

Myself I bought a used GERN drill press (made in taiwan) for 100 euros and it's served me well. Eventually I'll see about finding something older and made in europe, but no hurry at all.

[Mike Cutler]

Let me push out another comparison. Lets say the choice was between an expensive drill press and cheap drill press with high end accessories. Which of the following would you say is the better choice for an overall more positive experience?



Cheaper drill press, with the money put into the table and accessories.

I have a bench top model Delta 10". I think it cost about $75.00, 15-20 years ago. It has an Incra Drill press table, cost twice as much as I spent on the drill press itself at the time, and fence mounted at all times. I have machinist vises, and an X-Y vise for it. Other than low end speed for metal and large Forstner bits. This drill press has done everything I've needed. I can drill a hole as accurately as I can mark it.
The next step for me is a Milling Machine, However, I can't recommend a Milling Machine, or Mill Drill, to someone living in an apartment type environment. They're heavy.

As an aside;
I have only seen one Drill press designed for woodworking, and Grizzly discontinued it some time ago. Every drill press I've seen is setup to work with metal. No matter what you buy, you will need to adapt it for wood working to some degree.

[Erik Manchester]

I have only seen one Drill press designed for woodworking, and Grizzly discontinued it some time ago.

Mike, aren't you forgetting Radial Drill Presses? I have an old Rockwell Radial DP and it is great for getting out into the center of the work for larger items.

They are still made.

[Tom Giles]

A lot of hate for Delta but I have a 25 or 30 year old Delta 18"something I bought use for $150 at an auction that has worked flawlessly. Can't speak for the new Deltas.

[Jim German]

+1 on the LV HSS Brad point bits, they're fantastic.

I'd love a good high quality drill press too. The Powermatic one doesn't seem worth the premium price. I've got a craftsman benchtop one, which as people say, will drill a hole, but the chuck sucks, its underpowered and it has a tiny throw. How come none of the higher end European manufactures make drill presses?

[ian maybury]

Hi Erik. Off topic, but I spent many weeks over a few years in PEI back in the mid 80s installing and upgrading large scale potato (french fry) peeling and de-skinning equipment in Summerside (?). Memories include it being ferociously cold in winter, very friendly and hospitable people, and then the sudden transition to Summer with cars, motorcycles and T shirts everywhere. Lobster so cheap after the start of the season when the ice thawed that it was unbelievable - radio stations advertising Mother's day dinners in various restaurants. Getting pulled by a cop for running about 100mph back into the airport to collect parts in a rental car on what i thought was an empty road - and being sent on my way after a chat when he discovered i was Irish.

The flight from Halifax was interesting - an old WW2 era vintage aircraft (DC 3?) at low altitude. Took the car ferry over a few times to explore some of New Brunswick with a vague plan to check out Nova Scotia , but always understimated the (huge) distances. Pretty empty country up there compared to what we are used to. Flew up once to Halifax from another customer's food plant in London Ontario - it seemed to go on for ever....

[Phil Hansen]

I am not sure if it a feature on any of the machines under consideration, but for me an absolute requirement is a quill lock. - snip - Only thing missing is a table elevation crankl.
I have an old Delta 11-280 radial press. The quill lock is a winner but the table elevation is a total pain. Fitted with a VFD it is a joy to use. No belt changes.
Also have a modern floor model in the metal shop. Only advantage is more power.
Old and solid works for me.
Phil

[Derek Arita]

Well, here's my $.02...for me, a drill press is one of the most used machines in a shop. I know I use my drill press more than any other machine in my small shop. I use it for both wood and metal working, so those who say you don't need anything with tight tolerances may be right if you only use the dp for wood, but if you drill into metal, you'll appreciate a rock solid quill and one with little or no perceivable runout at the chuck. I feel so strongly about this that for my little garage shop, I got a Jet JDP-20 EVS, which is a 20", electronic variable speed drill press/mill. I always tell others that this is the most important machine in my shop as I use it for drilling into everything.
My advice is to get the most drill press that you can afford and then some...you'll appreciate it later. Stay with a respected brand and hope for a machine with little or no runout at the quill. Also, get a good chuck and use a known true bit and dial indicator to adjust for the least runout at the bit, that you can. I've had several drill presses and all but the last Jet frustrated me to no end. Like they say, buy once.

[John Coloccia]

so those who say you don't need anything with tight tolerances may be right if you only use the dp for wood

When you drill a 1/4" hole in wood for a 1/4" alignment pin for example (or shelf pin, perhaps), and the pin wobbles, they'll be lamenting the concept of "woodworking precision". Just because wood is more susceptible to movement than metal doesn't mean it's a good idea to compound the problem with sloppy machining. Sloppy quills cause chatter, excessive tearout, wandering bits, and will make it much harder to use something like a sanding drum. The excess play will also lead to accelerated wear, making the problem even worse.

My Delta drill press from about 10 years ago had gotten so bad that it became, more or less, useless. I had to modify it to allow me to tighten the quill in order to be usable again. If someone made a proper woodworking drill press, I'd buy it, but it doesn't exist. The closest I can find is a Clausing.

[Mike Cutler]

Mike, aren't you forgetting Radial Drill Presses? I have an old Rockwell Radial DP and it is great for getting out into the center of the work for larger items.

They are still made.

Erik

The only radials I've seen, and used, were in industrial (metal) applications. A decade or so back one of the guys here on the board bought a perfectly functional Delta for the price of scrap from Pratt & Whitney here in CT. Unbelievable score. The thing is a beast. Massive table!! They're great for woodworking though. I don't have the room for one though. Wish I did.

For me a milling machine, or Mill/Drill is the next step. I use my drill press for a lot of different things, but the low end RPM speed is very limiting when I need to drill metal. I have a friend with a small backyard machine shop, so if I really need too, I head over there with some beer and pizza, and do what I can't at home.

[John Coloccia]

Ja ja...radials are GREAT for woodworking. The 90 degree stop is often inadequate to get back to 90 degrees...at least the cheaper ones are, but it's so easy to realign 90 that it's not even a concern. Much easier, actually, than a lot of the tilting table 90 degree adjustment...loosen the nut, the table sags, make a guess...tighten the nut....loosen the nut, table sags and moves again, take a guess...table twists when you tighten it, etc. Yet another instance of poorly thought out design.

There are still a lot of Walker Turner/Atlas/etc radial presses kicking around out there that work quite well.

[Kent A Bathurst]

If someone made a proper woodworking drill press, I'd buy it, but it doesn't exist. The closest I can find is a Clausing.

John -

If I had it to do over, rather than the old-arn [early 80s'] PM1150VS, I would get the non-VS. Reeves drives can sometimes be problematic at very low RPM. But - get up the dial a bit, it is a great DP. Monstrous heavy-duty; I have the production table - massive. Only annoyance is the double-ring depth stop lock - takes 2 pliers to tighten/loosen. Nit-picking, though.

instead I'd get a pullet/belt version with a 3ph, and slap a VFD in front - control the speed that way. Or - maybe the "dial-a-speed" feature is not that important to you... but it sure is nice to cover the range from std bits thru large dia forstners to the occasional hole saws. And - I occasionally dripp metal - alum & brass.

The DP I bought was in very good, refurb condition, with an after-market 1ph. I got hte seller to toss in the OEM 3ph for nothing.......so maybe someday.

[Erik Manchester]

Ian,

PEI is much the same, but there is a bridge now as well as a ferry. Yes indeed, Canada is a big country compared to Europe. You can drive for two full days and still be in Ontario, I have done it many times.

Do come again.

[Erik Manchester]

Mike,

My folks are from CT, every third guy is either a machinist or a retired tool and die maker. The volume of used machine tools available from home shops is staggering.

[Lee Reep]

Jared,

You mentioned that your wife will need to use the DP for drilling pen blanks. I gave up on that years ago, primarily because my benchtop DP only has about 2-3/4" of quill travel. But I also had issues with alignment, it was just too much of a pain to verify each blank was clamped correctly. I use my lathe to do all pen blank boring. I bought a set of pen drilling jaws for my Nova chuck. If a blank is oddly shaped, I jsut turn it between centers until round, and then bore the hole. But I cut most of the blanks I use, so I can size them to go right into the chuck on the lathe. And, as an added bonus, there is massive amount of quill travel on a lathe ... :)

One other thought -- why must you have a floor model? (If you covered this and I somehow missed it, sorry ...) Is it just to get the long quill travel you see on several of them? One thing that would make life easier for you is to get a benchtop model, and put it on a rolling cabinet that would make moving it in and out much simpler. I have a cabinet under mine with drawers, so I get extra storage in my relatively small basement shop.

I'll be following this thread closely. I mentioned in previous post that the Powermatic was at top of list, but I'm holding off for awhile until I'm convinced I'll not find an alternative, at least for a new DP. I've struck out finding anything I'd consider, so far, on Craigslist.

[Mike Cutler]

Erik

They're retiring to other places at a rapid rate. It's really a shame because most of those "Old Timers" had amazing skill sets that they were never able to pass on. :(

[Jared Walters]

Jared,

You mentioned that your wife will need to use the DP for drilling pen blanks. I gave up on that years ago, primarily because my benchtop DP only has about 2-3/4" of quill travel. But I also had issues with alignment, it was just too much of a pain to verify each blank was clamped correctly. I use my lathe to do all pen blank boring. I bought a set of pen drilling jaws for my Nova chuck. If a blank is oddly shaped, I jsut turn it between centers until round, and then bore the hole. But I cut most of the blanks I use, so I can size them to go right into the chuck on the lathe. And, as an added bonus, there is massive amount of quill travel on a lathe ... :)

One other thought -- why must you have a floor model? (If you covered this and I somehow missed it, sorry ...) Is it just to get the long quill travel you see on several of them? One thing that would make life easier for you is to get a benchtop model, and put it on a rolling cabinet that would make moving it in and out much simpler. I have a cabinet under mine with drawers, so I get extra storage in my relatively small basement shop.

I'll be following this thread closely. I mentioned in previous post that the Powermatic was at top of list, but I'm holding off for awhile until I'm convinced I'll not find an alternative, at least for a new DP. I've struck out finding anything I'd consider, so far, on Craigslist.

It's just gonna live outside, it won't be wheeled into the apartment. I have nowhere indoor to store it. I'm not worried about rust because there is little to no moisture in the air here.

[Erik Manchester]

It's really a shame because most of those "Old Timers" had amazing skill sets that they were never able to pass on.

Yes, too many of the youth today are looking for the university education and so many of the manufacturing jobs have gone offshore that the manual trade schools are hard to find now.