PDA

View Full Version : Painting Cabinet



Bernie Weishapl
07-24-2005, 5:31 PM
My mother passed away about a year ago and we had to put my dad in a home with Deminita. When cleaning the house getting it ready to sell my mom had two cabinets that the rest of the kids were going to take to the dump. I refused to let them and brought them home. My wife said we could finish them and keep them for as a keepsake of mothers. One is a small 4 drawer my wife wanted for crafts and the other is a small like china hutch with glass in the top two doors and wood doors on the bottom with two drawers in the middle. It is 65" tall X 31" wide and 11" deep in which my mom kept her knick-knacks. We have them both stripped (5 coats of paint), sanded down and ready to finish.

The china hutch my wife wants to finish in a antique white. Should a person prime it before painting or how should one prepare it? The little 4 drawer she wants to stain and laquer it. What amazed me was the 5 coats of paint were put on every time my mother painted the living room in the old house. It had 2 coats of white, 2 different greens and 1 yellow. Any help with how to finish the painting would be appreciated. I will post picture when I get them finished. Thanks.

Bernie

John Miliunas
07-24-2005, 7:48 PM
Bernie, what flavor wood is the piece she wants to paint??? The reason I ask is, that if it's a nicely figured wood, she may want to consider "pickling" it to allow for some of the grain to show through. LOML did that with some kitchen cabinets we had and it turned out pretty nice. I shot some clear over the top of it for additional protection. Otherwise, if the intent is for total coverage, I've always been under the belief that a coat of primer makes for a better finished product overall. That way, you have little worries of the color coat getting too thin in places and such. :) :cool:

Chris Padilla
07-24-2005, 9:30 PM
Bernie,

If the condition of the old paint is good and the layer build-up is okay--i.e. build-up in corners and molding is crisp enough for you...I would just scuff it with some 220 and paint the new color over it.

If the piece needs stripping due to build-up and/or repair, that, of course, will be a TON more work. I suggest sanding the flat surfaces easily and using paint stripper on hard to sand spots like moldings and corners and such.

Can you post some pics of the piece...we might be able to help further.

Corey Hallagan
07-24-2005, 9:39 PM
I believe that both pieces are stripped and sanded at this point. When I paint wood, I use a primer that is suggested as a primer for the type of paint the unit will be painted with myself.

Corey

Chris Padilla
07-24-2005, 9:58 PM
Duh, I guess I could READ the whole post before sticking my foot in my mouth, eh, Corey??? :D

Anyway, a good primer is always recommended to help the new paint adhere well and flow out well. The primer will always give you a foreshadow of how nicely (or badly) the final color coat will turn out and highlight area needing a little extra attention. Choose a primer that is compatiable with your final coat. If you'll be using a water-base topcoat, choose a 100% acrylic primer.

See Fine Woodworking #177 (June, 2005). They have a whole article on precisely what you are asking. If you like, PM me and I can try and send you some photocopies. They cover the topic very thoroughly.

Corey Hallagan
07-24-2005, 10:18 PM
Chris, nah.. happens easily. That is what is nice about this forum, there won't be 20 responses with smart alec comments.

Given that the item should be primered in its raw wood state, I never get a good smooth finish the way Norm seems to get on his painted projects and he brushes them on too!

Corey

Bernie Weishapl
07-24-2005, 10:23 PM
Thanks guys for all the info. I was pretty sure that priming was what was needed but just wanted reassured I guess. John the wood on the shelves are just plain birch plywood. The frame itself is pine. There is not much if any grain in the wood. That is why my wife thought it would be nice to paint it antique white like when it was bought. It has a metal tag in the upper center that says "North State". Have been trying to see if I can find anything on it but nothing yet.

Chris you are right. It took a ton of work and sweat to strip 5 coats of paint off. I just thought it would be better to get it all off and see what kind of wood it was and then decide to paint or stain. I think she is right and it would look better painted. Chris I will check and I may have the June 2005 issue. If not I will e-mail you.

The other 4 drawer cabinet which is old pine, we are going to use gel stain and stain it antique pine. Then put a couple of good coats of laquer on it. Three of the wood pull handles were broke and missing. Mom used a screw to open the drawers. So my wife found some antique handles to put on it.
I will post some pictures of before and after when I get a chance. Anyway thanks again.

Bernie

Phil Phelps
07-25-2005, 7:59 PM
I like Benjamin Moore oil base, Fresh Start, underbody. You can brush it on and it sands easily. Either oil or latex can be applied over it.