Hand Plane Identification

[James Lehr]

Hello all, I picked up some wooden hand planes at an estate sale a couple months ago for $7 each and boxed them up and today was the first day i got to photographing them and posting here for help with identification. I've posted a photo with the planes annotated at the bottom A through E. There are 5 and so far the information that I could gather on them is that A. is a small Japanese plane (duh) which i think is between a block plane and a smoother, B. is a Moulding plane for coves, C. is a rabbet plane or dado plane without nickers, D. is a rabbet plane with a brass adjustable fence, and E. is a 24" jointer plane. My questions are for A. can anyone read and/or identify the maker of the plane/iron and maybe a link to instructions how to use it. For B. I think i can figure out how to use it but I'd like to figure out how to sharpen the iron. C. I guess if someone can explain or link to the difference between using it and D. How to use the adjustable fence to plane rabbets. My questions for E. all concern whether it is even a user. From the photos I hope that you can see the various cracks/splits along the sole of the plane; is it useable in this condition? The jointer is missing the wedge that keeps the blade and chipbreaker in the plane does anyone have a link or could explain how to make a replacement wedge for this type of plane? Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

[Jim Matthews]

D is a grooving plane, designed to cut cross grain - that's why there's a twin bladed nicker out front.

Yours is a particularly clean example - perhaps British?

The large jointer plane E might be salvaged if the iron is complete.
The wedge appears younger than the body.

PWW had a recent article on rehabilitating wood body planes.

If it was in my shop, I would at the least laminate on a new sole.

The spar plane is a nice looking example, but unless you're making poles or working on boats,
it's not likely to get much use.

Don't overlook the little Japanese planes, they're deceptively simple.

Lastly - the unfenced rabbet plane C is in excellent condition.
If the iron is intact, and full length - that's the find of the lot.

At $7 each, let me be the first to say that you suck.

[Alfred Kraemer]

Plane D is also called a dado plane. Jim has already pointed out the purpoase of the nickers and the brass depth stop.
Re . Plane C : these rabbet planes can be great if they are sharpened well, if the sole is fairly straight, and if one aligns the blade correctly with side. I have used them with a guide, and after I aligned the iron well with the guide it was a pleasure to use.
There may be some setup required for the Japanese plane, too. You can look that up, youtube videos etc.
I like them but some prefer a metal plane with a screw feed adjustment.

The body of the jointer is in rough shape but if the iron is still good it might be worth it to repair it. Such planes don't have to be pretty to work well.

Good luck

Alfred

[Daniel Rode]

Is that that Motorola logo on plane A?