Cutting bevel- Tablesaw

[George Bokros]

I am trying to make some backer boards for installing crown molding. I am working with 52/38 crown. I am using 3/4" ply for the backer board. I set my saw to 38 degrees to the table / 52 degrees to the fence. My problem is I need to stand the ply on edge to get the angle I need. I made a test cut and it seems a little dangerous since at the exit of the blade the ply is on the knife edge.

Your thoughts and opinions? I plan to make 4' long pieces of backer.

Update: Studying the situation, can I put a feather board against the stock after it exits the blade to keep it against the fence? Seem like it would not cause any binding or be unsafe.

George

[Keith Weber]

I make little triangles out of 2x2s for crown backers. I set up a little production run on my chop saw and make a bunch at a time using a stop block to keep them uniform. Works pretty good. I space them about 16" apart and hold them up with a couple of long 15 gauge nails into the corner rafter or studs so that they're nice and solid.

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[George Bokros]

I want to be able to nail the crown anywhere along a run not just at the studs or ceiling joists.

[Mark Rakestraw]

Those kinds of cuts scare me also. Depending on how the backer board is mounted you don't really need to have a knife edge. Leave a proud 1/16" flat on the beveled edge so it can register to the table after the cut. If you really need the knife edge (not sure why you would) start with a thicker board, say 13/16", then run the board through the planer to bring that side down to the bevel.. Clear as mud?

[Jamie Buxton]

Your backer board doesn't need a knife edge on it. It could have a blunt tip that's a quarter inch wide, and it would still serve perfectly as a backer board. The molding is going to cover the gap.

[Pat Barry]

I suggest cutting them on a crosscut sled with a modification to hold them at an appropriate angle. 4 inch long pieces should be very manageable this way. You possibly could incorporate a clamp to everything nice and snug

[George Bokros]

I suggest cutting them on a crosscut sled with a modification to hold them at an appropriate angle. 4 inch long pieces should be very manageable this way. You possibly could incorporate a clamp to everything nice and snug

Ooops, just edited my post. I am making them 4 foot long.

[George Bokros]

Those kinds of cuts scare me also. Depending on how the backer board is mounted you don't really need to have a knife edge. Leave a proud 1/16" flat on the beveled edge so it can register to the table after the cut. If you really need the knife edge (not sure why you would) start with a thicker board, say 13/16", then run the board through the planer to bring that side down to the bevel.. Clear as mud?

I am using ply not sold stock so the planer is not an option.

I agree on not needing a knife edge and will look at perhaps going that route.

[Prashun Patel]

I wanted the same thing when I installed crown in my house.

I ripped a bevel on 2x3's and installed that as a backer. The thicker 2x3 stock was preferable to rip for your reason.

[Pat Barry]

Ooops, just edited my post. I am making them 4 foot long.
Then I would agree that using the fence and some featherboards and setting the cut to give ~ 1/8" flat probably makes the most sense